Ryno's R32... Over A Decade And Counting

[Ryno]

I haven't updated this in a while, but I've decided to get on the tools and get a few mods done to my car over these Christmas holidays.

Things that I've purchased are, a complete brand new engine and alternator wiring loom from wiring specialties (in the U.S.), a new Nismo fuel pump, a new Nismo clutch bracket and a new ARE intercooler.

The loom is still a few weeks away and it is the most expensive of these mods, but I've never been happy with the dodgy loom I've been living with. It was spliced together by an auto electrician when I did the RB25DET conversion over 10 years ago.

I got the clutch bracket swapped over this morning, it's not a particularly difficult job and took around 40 mins... The most frustrating part was getting the release spring back on.

Here is the new bracket beside the stock one, there's not a lot different to it. Just the extra piece circled, some extra tac welds and of course the Nismo grey paint, which adds an addition 5 bhp.

The reason I chose to swap it out was because I was hearing some squeaking from the clutch pedal, as you can see by the below pic I had a crack in the bracket.

[admS15]

Nismo grey paint adds at least 10rwkw;)

[Ryno]

I love it when new parts arrive! New interior door handles and Nismo Fuel pump...

I've now installed the new Fuel Pump, it wasn't quite a straight swap and required the hard fuel feed line to be shortened and two 5mm holes drilled in the bracket to mount the new base...

This is the new pump compared to the Walbro that was previously installed. A little bit of a size difference!

I also read this thread....

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91993-fuel-pump-direct-feed-rewire/page-1

and decided to direct wire in the 12v feed for the fuel pump. As I already have the car battery in the boot the install was fairly straight forward. I did it a little differently as most (in that thread) and removed the 12 volt feed pin and soldered direct to that. This makes the install as clean as possible and does not modify the fuel pump loom - so it can still be unplugged and removed (if required).

I took it for a test drive afterwards and the fuel ratios were very rich, so even though that Walbro pump was rated at the same litres per hour, it was delivering significantly less fuel. I had to take almost 10% of fuel out at the top end to get the ratios back to normal. Good thing about that is my injector duty has dropped so I have some extra headroom to make more power if I can convince the wife to let me change the turbo to an EFR 7163.

[AngryRB]

Just read your thread, great choice in mods and looks awesome.. how does a new R33 box feel, is the cost worth it over reconditioning an old one you think?

[Ryno]

Just read your thread, great choice in mods and looks awesome.. how does a new R33 box feel, is the cost worth it over reconditioning an old one you think?

The new box feels excellent. After using it for a couple of years the only complaint I have is the synchro between 4th and 5th sometimes doesn't keep up with my shifting, but this may be a problem with my technique rather than the box.

For me, buying a new box was definitely worth it... From memory the new box cost around $2500 (through Just Jap) and was the most recent spec released by Nissan. At the time, the cheapest second hand box I could find was around $1300 and the condition would have been a complete gamble. So I may have needed to rebuild it later on, which would be another $1000 and more time with the car off the road.

However if you already have a R33 gearbox, that's most of the expense, so in your case it is probably better to just recondition that one.

[Ryno]

Got to love it when what you think is going to be a 40 minute job takes closer to 3 hours!

I ordered a Whiteline pineapple kit, as even though I already have urethane subframe mounts, I wanted to use two pineapples to angle the rear subframe for better traction. But when I got stuck into the job and lowered the subframe, I found that because of the width of the existing urethane bushes I wouldn't have enough length on the bolt to also fit the pineapple. So after a bit of head scratching I decided to make my own spacer out of a chopping board. This is what I came up with...

This is the width compared to the Whiteline pineapple

This is what it looks like installed... Not sure if I'll notice much difference, as it's not that much of a change but I figure it can't hurt to try.

So now I have an opened but unused Whiteline Pineapple kit, if someone wants to grab it off me cheap.

Tomorrow, I'm going to tackle replacing the driveshaft centre bearing, so hopefully that isn't another half day affair!

[admS15]

^10 points for thinking outside the box with the chopping board.

[Ryno]

Fortunately replacing the centre bearing was fairly straight forward and only took me around 2 hours. I used this DIY to help tackle it...

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150909-tail-shaft-centre-bearing-replacement/?hl=%2Btailshaft

The condition of my old centre bearing wasn't too bad, aside from the rubber surround sagging. So hopefully the new one lasts another 25 years!

[Gts-t]

Good work Ryno, love to see the R32 gtst's builds

[Ryno]

For around the last 10 years or so, I have been constantly plagued with little electrical dramas due to the dodgy wiring from my RB25DET conversion. Unfortunately back then you couldn't buy an off the shelf loom to do the swap, so an auto electrician converted the loom to make the new engine work but without the wiring diagrams he didn't do the best job.

Fortunately those days are all over, because I have just installed my brand new loom from Wiring Specialties in the US. It wasn't completely smooth sailing on the install as I had to swap a couple of plugs over, but the loom is a work of art compared to the stock loom.

Half way through the install, old loom beside the new one...

I found some heat damage to the wires running around the shock tower on the turbo side... I've now routed the wires over the shock tower to prevent this occurring again.

All installed!

[CEF33Y]

Looks good on the road! Just spotted heading out currarong way

[Ryno]

Looks good on the road! Just spotted heading out currarong way

Thanks mate, were you driving the 300ZX heading towards town?

[CEF33Y]

Yeah, taking the wife's car for its monthly drive, lol

[Ryno]

That's a great looking car too. I hardly ever see 300Z's on the road any more. They look bloody awesome being so low to the road.

[Ryno]

Not the most exciting update, but I've just installed a new alternator - as my old one was on its way out.

I went for a 90 Amp upgraded replacement from Phase 2 Motortrend in the US.

[kingtube69]

That loom looks amazing!

Out of curiosity what plugs did you have to change?

[Ryno]

My gearbox plug (reverse switch) was different and I lengthened another plug to let me route the loom the way I wanted.

Also it was originally sent without a Z32 AFM plug, so I swapped mine over to get the car on the road. But they quickly sent another AFM loom, when I told them the issue.

[fullboost33]

Hey guys, sorry for the major thread revival here...

I’m trying to get my R33 GTST running properly but having a whole lot of trouble controlling boost creep. Thanks to Ryno and his thread I managed to get myself the exact same manifold to chase some crazy turbo response seen in here.

Mine is also a standard stroke, standard cam 25det however my setup differs in that I have a Hypergear ATR45SAT, a 45mm hypergate, screamer and a 3.5” dump pipe and cat into a free flowing 3” cat back.

Ryno seems to have a nice boost curve however mine wants to go crazy. With a 7psi spring it’s spiking to 25psi. Even with no springs in the gate at all it’s still seeing over 14psi of boost before it even hits 5000rpm.

Was hoping you guys might be able to shed some light on what’s happening as I’m pretty stumped! I’m more familiar with LSs so this forum has been a gold mine of RB knowledge for me over the last couple of years, for that I thank all of you!

[Ben C34]

27 minutes ago, fullboost33 said:

Hey guys, sorry for the major thread revival here...

I’m trying to get my R33 GTST running properly but having a whole lot of trouble controlling boost creep. Thanks to Ryno and his thread I managed to get myself the exact same manifold to chase some crazy turbo response seen in here.

Mine is also a standard stroke, standard cam 25det however my setup differs in that I have a Hypergear ATR45SAT, a 45mm hypergate, screamer and a 3.5” dump pipe and cat into a free flowing 3” cat back.

Ryno seems to have a nice boost curve however mine wants to go crazy. With a 7psi spring it’s spiking to 25psi. Even with no springs in the gate at all it’s still seeing over 14psi of boost before it even hits 5000rpm.

Was hoping you guys might be able to shed some light on what’s happening as I’m pretty stumped! I’m more familiar with LSs so this forum has been a gold mine of RB knowledge for me over the last couple of years, for that I thank all of you!

How is the waste gate plumbed? To have no springs and hit 14psi is mental 

What timing are you running?

[fullboost33]

2 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

How is the waste gate plumbed? To have no springs and hit 14psi is mental 

What timing are you running?

Gate is plumbed straight from the compressor cover to the bottom port, top is venting

As for timing I’m not sure I will contact my tuner

Thanks for the reply mate