Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good move, I don't regret installing it for one second.

The other great benefit is that the sensor will be installed in the correct location in the exhaust. This will give you a more accurate reading of the AFRs (when you get it tuned) rather than a sniffer in the tail pipe.

  • 4 months later...

I've done a fair bit of maintenance to fix a few ongoing issues over the last few months. The car now has all the rubber suspension bushes replaced with Whiteline/Nothalane. It also has a new air conditioning condenser, heater core and rear wheel bearing replaced.

Of note, my car has had an intermittent steering wheel vibration at around 100 kph, that I've been living with for as long as I can remember. It wasn't because of a wheel imbalance as I've had several tyres/rims over that period with the vibration always persisting. What fixed the problem was replacing the front inner/lower suspension bushes. My upper camber and caster bushes had been swapped swapped out for urethane years ago - so the lower ones were the last rubber ones remaining.

  • 7 months later...

Time for some updates... Pics of the new Aircon condenser and Heater Core that I put in...

IMG_1573_zpsaab65d22.jpg

IMG_1574_zps766dd430.jpg

I ended up reusing the plastic heater core fittings not the metal ones shown in the picture.

  • Like 1

I found that the bolts and washers that hold my MX Performance plenum top down onto the lower runners weren't really up to the task and the washers had deformed. So I ordered some titanium flanged hex head bolts to replace them.

IMG_2017_zps80d277c5.jpg

Out of interests sake, I wanted to know the weight saving, seemed like a good job for the wifes Thermomix!

IMG_1969_zps684c5b51.jpg

IMG_1971_zpsc461a104.jpg

So for around $100 thats an awesome weight saving of 100 grams! I'll only need to spend another $500,000 on titanium bolts and I should be able to get the weight of my car down to the same as a Lotus Elise! :blink:

Edited by Ryno

Since going to my new exhaust manifold setup the car has been a fair amount louder. I finally decided to tackle it back in November and swapped out the rear cannons and centre muffler with new Magnaflow mufflers.

Out with the old...

IMG_1973_zpsec5a538e.jpg

Rigging up the new...

IMG_1975_zpsc8a4337a.jpg

IMG_1978_zps50c15af8.jpg

IMG_1979_zps363a85dd.jpg

My latest drama to fix was a leaking Power Steering rack...

IMG_2464_zps1b042f11.jpg

I was able to swap it for a reconditioned rack that cost $350. But at the same time I wanted to finally fix a problem that has been bugging me for around 10 years!

Ever since swapping to the RB25DET engine and removing the HICAS I've been living with heavy steering as the power steering goes into a limp mode due to no speed input.

The solenoid on the power steering rack gives full assistance with 12 volts and the assistace reduces as you reduce the voltage. So I purchased this voltage step down module from Jaycar...

IMG_2482_zps433531ac.jpg

I have wired that direct to the Power Steering solenoid and can adjust the voltage as I see fit. It is still not going to be speed variable (like stock) however I can tweak the voltage to find a happy assistance that works ok at all speeds.

Checking the output voltage...

IMG_2483_zpsb87539a7.jpg

Where I've mounted it in the car...

IMG_2484_zpsd066444c.jpg

Edited by Ryno
  • Like 2

Thanks Glyn, yeah I'm very happy with the exhaust... it looks the business and the sound has reduced nicely while still maintaining the unique note from the twin pipe setup.

Edited by Ryno

Yes I've been driving it to work every day this week. At the moment I have it set on around 8 volts and the steering is nice and light.

I'm just a bit frustrated that I've only fixed it now... It's such an easy solution, why the hell did I put up with crap steering for 10 years!?

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...

Yes I've been driving it to work every day this week. At the moment I have it set on around 8 volts and the steering is nice and light.

I'm just a bit frustrated that I've only fixed it now... It's such an easy solution, why the hell did I put up with crap steering for 10 years!?

hey ryno

i have a 93 r32 gtr that still has hicas but occassionally has heavy steering at low speeds/parking. Can the above solution you put in place be useful for my situation?

Jase

Absolutely... all you are doing is intercepting and controlling the voltage going direct to the power steering rack. It's a very simple and effective fix.

fantastic ill keep it in mind if it continues to play up. Its been bugging me. Would you consider doing a diy write up?

fantastic ill keep it in mind if it continues to play up. Its been bugging me. Would you consider doing a diy write up?

I've just done up a DIY for the power steering fix, once it is approved by the moderators I will provide a link.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...