Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is something like this worthwhile?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GT35-GT3582R-Slide-Ind-Turbo-Charger-400-600HP-T3-/251018425088?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a71dd3300#ht_5757wt_1113

Seems cheap for what it is..

(if it seems too good to be true, it probably is??)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409627-c34-turbo-upgrade/
Share on other sites

Cost with that turbo will blow out massively

Ext waste gate

High mount manifold

New dump to suit

New intake to suit

Custom water/oil lines

Get hypergear to highflow your turbo and tell him what your aiming for performance wise

Pretty sure he can get a neo op6 turbo up to about 260awkw

Cost with that turbo will blow out massively

Ext waste gate

High mount manifold

New dump to suit

New intake to suit

Custom water/oil lines

Get hypergear to highflow your turbo and tell him what your aiming for performance wise

Pretty sure he can get a neo op6 turbo up to about 260awkw

YEah I got a quote for about $960.... with that price, i thought it may be better to just buy a new turbo??

Turbo upgrades always means more money. A hiflow is a pretty sensible way to go to keep costs down but it is always going to cost more than you think.

Hiflow turbo, injectors, AFM, Nistune + tune. (assuming FMIC and 3" exhaust already done).

how big depends on if you think you will go e85 in the future

personally, i'd get the highflow/ss1 and the fuel pump and rock what your tuner feels safe on stock afm and injectors

if you go big injectors you will max out the afm too

how big depends on if you think you will go e85 in the future

personally, i'd get the highflow/ss1 and the fuel pump and rock what your tuner feels safe on stock afm and injectors

if you go big injectors you will max out the afm too

Ok sounds like a plan. Don't think I'll be going on e85 anytime soon.. Haven't even seen it in petrol stations yet!!

I remember the tuner last time saying the next steps were "high flow turbo back exhaust, bigger turbo, injectors".... so maybe i'll leave injectors off the list for now and get them to tune and see what they think..

Also, worth getting a BOV while i'm at it?? They seem wanky, but have some benefits I read

Edited by tchard

Leave the stock BOV. There is no performance to be gained buying a new one.

If you want to get the most out of the turbo upgrade buy the injectors and the Z32 AFM. You will pay for tuning twice when you eventually upgrade them.

If you are sticking with stock injectors and afm just run the stock turbo to 12psi with a good tune and it will do the job perfectly well and make around 200rwkw +/- 10kw.

Leave the stock BOV. There is no performance to be gained buying a new one. If you want to get the most out of the turbo upgrade buy the injectors and the Z32 AFM. You will pay for tuning twice when you eventually upgrade them. If you are sticking with stock injectors and afm just run the stock turbo to 12psi with a good tune and it will do the job perfectly well and make around 200rwkw +/- 10kw.

Well to be honest, I have the NISTUNE with stock everything and 12psi boost... Only making 175kw :(

Can you list all your mods.

fmic, pod, nistune, cat back exhaust...

potentially interested in your stocker if you do upgrade :)

hasn't missed a beat mate, so will let you know :)

Edited by tchard

3" dump and a 5" bodied cat (Venom??) and re-tune should be 200rwkw give or take.

Yeah they were both on my shopping list... I'll do those first then and see how she goes... :)

Not sure whether I'll have clearance for the 5" cat, may have to go 4"....

Edited by tchard

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • You miss spelled bearings...
×
×
  • Create New...