Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What? Why you need to know percentage just to get slotted rotors?

If changing calipers, sure, you might want to work it out, but what are you up to?

Go measure the size of the front and rear pistons, and work it out if its that important.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409838-braking/#findComment-6544878
Share on other sites

What? Why you need to know percentage just to get slotted rotors?

If changing calipers, sure, you might want to work it out, but what are you up to?

Go measure the size of the front and rear pistons, and work it out if its that important.

No I don't need to know percentage to get slotted rotors... try reading it again before typing your annoyance... :rolleyes:

I already have slotted rotors on the front. Im wondering what a good upgrade to the rears would be... thanks for not answering that question too btw.

And in answer to your question, I'm up to nothing.

I'm wanting to know how much front brakes work compared to the rears and if an upgrade to the rears would be worth it... and if someone knows the percentage it would help me in my decision.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409838-braking/#findComment-6546946
Share on other sites

Front/rear split is around 67/33.

Is it worth it? I still upgraded all four of my rotors to the DBA4000 series slotted variety and whacked in EBC Red Stuff pads all around too. May as well give them all the same treatment and the savings in not doing so isn't that significant.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409838-braking/#findComment-6547171
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there it is trickier. Ecutek seems to be one of those closed ecosystems where everyone password protects their tunes which means I either choose a tuner and can't change from them and can't make any changes myself for any reason, or I have to buy the tuning software (about $4k) and then get someone to tune from scratch (which is not simple with all the multi dimensional tables these days). Once you buy about 300 "flash points" per ECU you can get it tuned and add their "RaceROM" function which hacks extra functionality like launch control onto the ECU, and also makes extra data available for logging over CAN Not sure what I'll do there yet; I'm tempted to use one of the overseas shops that does billions of remote tunes of the platform instead of starting from scratch locally, a lot can be done online these days.
    • Can I log IAT eh? Well, can now So next thing was looking at data logging. Not straight forward because none of the motorsport displays have cracked the nissan/inifinti CAN and ECU based displays don't do g logging, lap timing, predictive laps etc.  So, I bought an Ecutek dongle from Tunehouse (Oz distributor). Even without a tune onboard that allows display and logging of about 50 parameters via Android (and presumably iOS) app. Approx 600 for the bluetooth + Usb version That gives me (pretty ugly but) functional dash display on Android And logging of these parameters I'll play around a bit over the break, but at least now I can make sure I have oil pressure when I get to some track testing.  
    • I don't know what globes/headlight connector they run, but I'd be looking for a female adapter to plug into the existing headlight on one side. Something like this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/256017245989 Then I'd use a pair of single input, double output relays (one for low, one for high), mount them in a spare space in the fuse box if you want to to look more original (and be easier to maintain). Then 2 new power sources from the main stud in the fuse box via a fuse to each relay. Low from the headlight adapter pin triggers low relay and high from the high headlight adapter pin triggers high and low. Earth the relays and new headlight sockets and off you go. Because it triggers off the original headlight all of the dipping/hi on/high flash all still works
×
×
  • Create New...