Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

WILL POST PICS TONIGHT!

I have owned this car for 2years and i bought it off an old man, i have only done 15,000km since owning it. The car was purely stock and i have done all the modifications myself as im a qualified mechanic, all the parts were brand new on this car and i have spent over 20k just on parts. the car has full service history and will provide books and reciepts proof

Engine mods

Brian Crower step 2 cams

Brian Crower titanium valve springs and retainers

Brand new genuine nissan valve stem seals

Hks Gt rs turbo

metal intake pipe connected into custom airbox

Z32 AFM

740cc nismo injectors

Powerbond underdrive balancer

full stainless turbo back exhaust

38mm tial external gate

greddy spec ls intercooler

ASI 52mm alloy radiator

Tridon hi flow thermostat (brand new waterpump)

Suspension

Front and Rear whiteline adjustable sway bar

Front and Rear jjr carbon strut brace

Adjustable Castor arms (7.5 deg castor)

adjustable rear camber arm( -1.5deg camber)

adjustable rear toe arm (0.5deg toe)

isc coilovers( front camber -2.5)

Drift works solid rear subframe bushes

shimmed 4.3 lsd diff

QFM front and rear performance brake pads

interior

Genuine bride brix 2 seat with bride rails

Fire extenguisher

safety 21 half roll cage (with pads)

greddy profec b spec 2 boost controller

Blitz rv-it( moniters water temp, afm, etc, also deletes engine fault codes)

full alpine type s sound system

exterior

genuine full JDM kit

origin boot lip

enkei RPF-01 wheels(18x9.5 18x10.5 +15)

front tyres are neuton, rear bobjane (still new)

Fresh respray with PPG paint 1year ago

the car is service every 3000km to keep it in top condition, ALL fluids have been changed

car makes 247RWKW and comes on very aggressive you check the dyno sheet for yourself and it was tuned at chequred tuning.

Very interested mate, but for a cash sale, not a swap. How much are you looking for? How many km's? (also how many km since engine build) More pics would be great as well

the engines not built, just headwork done. the motors healthy hence the power it pulled with that turbo and cams, it was owned by a grandpa and have all reciepts of previous service history and pretty much all the reciepts of all the stuff ibought for the car, its serviced every 3000km or even less, just cause i can lol

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd want an even MORE side on view. More or less you want to make sure the outlet is actually square with the outermost part of the bumper. Or you end up getting soot all over your bumper from your hektik exhaust. In any case, it looks pretty close. I think the way to fix this is probably more of an overhaul at an exhaust specialty shop if you want tips that are rounded off or sit nicely with the bumper but have proper clearance and don't move - Probably more of a redesign than a quick fix. I've pencilled in my own exhaust with its own various problems, pinholes, PITA fitment, and other issues and can see myself going to a shop and saying "JUST DO THIS BUT BETTER?"  Which is gonna work better than any more small fixes. I'm gonna chime in here officially with "from an outsider perspective this exhaust looks fine so this is self OCD probably" (which I also suffer from)
    • Reminds me I really need to install that HKS oil cooler I bought years ago.
    • It be 40°C outside lately. 10W60 is a good idea here. Well, certainly 10W50.
    • Here are some side on's.
    • I just did an oil change on my daily which used oil that is probably 2-3 years old. Normally I try to follow exact viscosities, but my LS400 is fairly tolerant. Dumped something like half a quart of 0W30 Mobil1 ESP X2 in there, followed by 2 quarts Pennzoil 5W30, followed by ~1.2 quarts of liquimoly 5W30 LL04 spec oil. Then the rest was QS euro 5W40 which is actually so thin it's basically a 30 weight oil. All this is to say it doesn't matter that much. We aren't talking about brake fluid. For an RB I would recommend a high ZDDP oil because it doesn't use rollers in the interface between the cam and valve, but a 5W30 or 5W40 is fine to use for street use. The 10W60 guidance really only applies if you're getting it hot and pushing the engine hard.
×
×
  • Create New...