Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

Im having issues with the auto in my R34 GT-T when it's cold.

When it's first driven of a day, the auto is super boggy like something is holding it back, both in tiptronic and drive.

When the revs get over around 2500rpm, it cruises along a little smoother, but then i shift gear or it shifts itself (in drive), and it bogs again. It happens in the morning when i go to work, and again in the arvo on my way home.

It also makes a whining kinda sound when cold, its not too loud but i can definitely hear it.

It takes about 10 minutes of driving to get it warm and shifting like it should. Once it's warm, life is good.

The A/T light flashes 1 long, 16 short....and i cannot for the life of me find this error code.

Ive searched for a while both on here and google to see if anyone has experienced a similar issue, but most seem to get the sensors go and get stuck in 3rd, and mine does not get stuck in 3rd.

Please help someone...im trying to sell the car and i don't want to to sell it with a clapped out gearbox. :no:

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409994-r34-at-boggy-when-cold-at-flashing/
Share on other sites

The fluid is about 1500kms old StevenCJR31, level is good and it still looks new, i don't what fluid was used in it last time it was changed though.

and it doesn't smell burnt Moodles2

It's already a tiptronic box thanks Haines

I thought that the box might just be dying because it's stock and pushing out 225rwkw...and i was told from the guys that tuned it that it should die around 220kw...

Does yours get stuck in 3rd for ages then all of a sudden a big shud into 4th?

Mine goes into 4th all the time, i never get stuck in 3rd...mine's just feeling somewhat "restricted" when it's cold.

I wouldnt say it does a big shud, you could be cruising and it will sit at 2200rpm @60kph in 3rd for a while, and then at some random point, usually after 2-3 mins, the revs drop back to 1600 and it shifts up into 4th. You cant manually shift up either. It will only do it once, after that it will shift into 4th normally for the rest of the drive. If i drive it again an hour or two later, the problem doesnt happen- its only if the car sits there a while. It started doing it occasionally but now it does it 9 out of 10 times in the morning when i drive to work or home again at night.

Edited by camr33

My non triptonic 33 box had the exact same issue with the exact same error code. Got worse and worse, now 3rd gear won't engage at all and it's pretty selective about when 4th wants to work.Will just be replacing it as I believe 3rd gear will need new clutches, belt or maybe both.

I also have this transmission and have the "get stuck in 3rd and wont go to 4th for awhile" but I've put it down to just heat, it just won't go into fourth until warmed up.

I noticed this way more when I got a much, much much larger AT Cooler installed by MV autos, and it doesn't have a thermostat. Meaning it takes a lot longer to go into 4th and if cruising around on a cold day will actually shift back into enforced third due to the fact it gets too cold. Dunno if that is actually what is occurring but it seems to 'fit' with my limited understanding of it all.

Thats actually what I was thinking- that it may be temp based.

Hopefully its not an issue in the longterm and causing damage to the transmission! The transmission cover over the shifter looks like its been removed at some stage as its a bit worse for wear. Dont know if a transmission cooler has been put in though, I have also heard that a solanoid might be on its way out and causing the problem.

This is, according to google, a pretty common problem in r34's but there doesn't seem to be much info about what is causing it and how to fix it...

I have seen a few english translation user manuals on ebay, I wonder if there will be any useful info on tremah's probelm in there?

Yeah mate, sorry to hijack your thread lol. Wasn't trying to go of topic. Hopefully its not your transmission crapping itself, maybe take it to an a/t specialist and run it past them.

Is it changing gears smoothly?

Tiptronic boxes come up pretty often on gumtree for cheap so if the box is screwed, hopefully it won't be to costly to fix...

I am converting to manual. I had the box looked at, and im the 5th person that has gone into this mechanic with the exact same issue with an R34 tiptronic box. His recommendation was to throw it in the bin when i get it home lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
×
×
  • Create New...