R34 Running Power Cable !

[r34unit]

nah in a vr wagon

wouldn't put the sky line through so much pain !

but very possible with the small cabin area !

[B-rice]

just did this too i found it easier with removing guard liner you get so much room to work with too.

[Carbon 34]

just did this too i found it easier with removing guard liner you get so much room to work with too.

Takes >5 min to get it thru without inner guard , if you have tape, silicone spray, and stiff wire

But either way works

[CarbonCarSystems]

haha all good boys found it the gommet. the key point is to pull back the guard lining ! u cant see it other wise ! once i did that i run the cable in 15 mins !

and the last system i built i got a 145db with 2 12s running off 2.5k rms on music so i have a little experience with car audio !

cheers guys thanks for the help !!!!

Yeah its deceptive you can get to it from the engine bay but it is inside the guard it comes out behind the fuse box in the drivers kick. You can fit a semi trailer through it so the 0 gauge is fine. This grommet is there on almost all Nissan Imports S13/S14/S15 R32/R33/R34 180SX etc. Great for running cables neatly and out of sight. Pictures probably would have made it easier to find.

[Carbon 34]

Yeah its deceptive you can get to it from the engine bay but it is inside the guard it comes out behind the fuse box in the drivers kick. You can fit a semi trailer through it so the 0 gauge is fine. This grommet is there on almost all Nissan Imports S13/S14/S15 R32/R33/R34 180SX etc. Great for running cables neatly and out of sight. Pictures probably would have made it easier to find.

Funny about that , its a pain on iphones haha

[B-rice]

where it comes in from under the lining.

you can fish out the cable or just poke it through and hope that it comes out next to the fuses. Its doable without having to fish it out if you prefer not to.

the grommet rubber lining

dont forget to put a fuse inline you can purchase the inline fuses from jaycar or audio shops.Prefer the old tech cylindircal ones as theyre also water tight and very simple screw and go.

[Carbon 34]

where it comes in from under the lining.

you can fish out the cable or just poke it through and hope that it comes out next to the fuses. Its doable without having to fish it out if you prefer not to.

the grommet rubber lining

dont forget to put a fuse inline you can purchase the inline fuses from jaycar or audio shops.Prefer the old tech cylindircal ones as theyre also water tight and very simple screw and go.

The screw together ones fail to easy

The plastic threads get crossed up or break off

The cables do not positive lock and can work loose

The housings crack from heat in a turbo bay or any V style motors from header heat

Not recommended !!

And jaycars are just the same as fleabay made in china ones !!

[Carbon 34]

Damn sau and 3g grrrr

Edited February 12, 2013 by Carbon 34

[B-rice]

The screw together ones fail to easy

The plastic threads get crossed up or break off

The cables do not positive lock and can work loose

The housings crack from heat in a turbo bay or any V style motors from header heat

Not recommended !!

And jaycars are just the same as fleabay made in china ones !!

as i said i prefer those for simplicity of an anologue setup ten years down the line it will still be working but the digital new stuff, too much variables.With cracking place it under the lining but i really doubt that it would crack. Each to their own.

[B-rice]

Forgot to put the images of the little cables seals to make it waterproof as water could seep in and screw up your fuses.

thats what it looks like when it all in.

thats the cable seal i used.

[Carbon 34]

as i said i prefer those for simplicity of an anologue setup ten years down the line it will still be working but the digital new stuff, too much variables.With cracking place it under the lining but i really doubt that it would crack. Each to their own.

After nearly 26 years in pro car audio

They fail !! Often , even faster in oz heat

the new ones digital as you put it ? Which has nothing to do with it fail less , but a good old resetable curcuit breaker works well too , has a heat proof bakelite contruction as well

And ring terminals dont normally fall out

And never have to buy fuse at 2-9 bucks a pop

with those you need a straight run in and out or the allen set screw works loose on heat and cool cycles or fiddling with the wires

Just many better choices for same cost