Jump to content
SAU Community

Parting Out/stripping R33 Gtst


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

cat back exhaust 3.5" - two large mufflers for very quiet operation with good flow (was flowing 390kw) $500

computer Vipec Pugin ecu with optional (external) 4 bar map sensor $1300

RB25 gearbox - rebuilt with all seals, bearings and synchros replaced 30,000km ago (Have receipts) $1700

dif - stock shimmed up to lock $150

coilovers Tien HA $600

adjustable upper suspension arms front and rear $200

brakes inc disks and pads (RDA Slotted, EBC red R + Yellow F ) $400

hicas lockbar $50

intercooler 600x300x100 with piping to suit 3L greddy $120

Stock seats - drivers seat has usual tear $100

nissan floor mats $100

copy gtr wing and bootlid $200

front 1/4 guard L $100

front 1/4 guard R $100

S1 Bonnet $100

S1.5 Front bar $75

Rear bar $50

doors (each) (no speakers or door cards) (pair - 120 each) $200

S1 non airbag steering wheel $50

Gauge cluster (217,000km) all gauges working, white LED lights. $75

dash pad $50

steering rack $100

power steering pump $40

alternator $80

aircon pump + condesner (neither have been used since 2007, probably needs new seals) $50

front grill from between headlights $30

headlights $150

17x8 + 17x9 Nismo LMGT2 (federal 595 RSR Semis fronts 80-90%, rears on ind) $1100

brake lights $100

light up skyline rear garnish (lights up RED) $150

plain skyline rear garnish $40

Custom Fiberglass sub box (to suit 12" sub) $150

space saver spare $30

brake master cyl $30

clutch master & slave $30

52mm thick alloy radiator with 16" thermo fan $150

Bosch 044 mounted on bracket for intank install including speedflow fittings $150

front Strut brace (Apexi) $100

Starter motor $50

Ignitor $50

stock coil packs - working, spark broke down above 350kw $150

Jim berry full monty - spring centre ceramic button clutch $500

door cards front and rear $100

Castor rods

Handbrake setup

Stereo Brackets

anything not listed or not crossed off is still for sale

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness update time have had great fun and learnt so much already so far with this project. I started off making both the ignition and injector sub harnesses in the hope any mistakes i made here aren't as hard to undo and learn from as the main harness.  A cool comparison of the old harness using presumably TXL wire and the new which is using Tezel. Also opted to use DTM plugs to keep the whole setup as neat and tidy as possible and tucked the wiring under the coil bracket to try and keep it all from sticking out too much. Although the injector harness, I'm not overly happy with as I'm still using the rubber boots that are supplied with the type of plugs it just looks ugly and sticks out like a sore thumb with the white identifiers so a slight redesign may be done.   Then it was main harness time and most importantly trying to route it nice and away from the heat it will use the OEM heater hose routing which is no longer present to keep the harness up high and secure. it's amazing how much smaller this harness is able to be compared to the old one. plugged everything into the emtron and with the help of the tuner again attempted to start it up and instantly fired up and running smoothly on all 6 which was a big shock to myself. So still some routing and adjusting to be done for the final fit up and installing a knock sensor harness plug which is in the post all has gone surprisingly well.     The old harness for shits and giggles.
    • They do that at random every now and then, with almost no detectable cause. Mine has done it a couple of times (over 25 years!!). Never worked out why.
    • I don't post on here and have been lurking for some time now. Many of the topics have helped me out more times than i can count. I was racing yesterday (11/9) and blew a front right CV shaft. I have spares so I popped a new one in. A thread i read previously said to check the engine mounts if you blow a front CV. Upon inspection, the front right mount was completely separated from the upper plate. This discovery saved me time and money, because i would have blown another CV if i went back out. Just wanted to thank you guys and wish everyone luck with with their builds. (Now if we could only come up with a solution for my power steering belt flying off after hitting the rev limiter, lol)
    • Either way he still need those style of spacer to go into the manifold because the photo he currently has is not going to work 
    • You can just get the injector bosses, which allows top feeds to fit. He can use the same injectors without issue, like these (another option): https://rocketindustries.com.au/af59-2210-rb25-fuel-injector-inserts     The Racework ones look a bit better: https://www.nzefi.com/product/raceworks-lower-injector-mounting-boss-kit-for-r33-rb25det-s14-s15-sr20det/   You could also just get a similar kit like the Radium one by Plazmaman: https://plazmaman.com/product/nissan-rb25det-r33-billet-fuel-rail/?srsltid=AfmBOoogfYq49X0fu2Wdbf8yOf6zt9egyPAif_gn3Qr3G8hzAphhTgOkO70  
×
×
  • Create New...