Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Looking to install my front mount this week and looking for some advice what holesaw bit to get.

I will need a 3inch one but don't have much knowledge on brand / what they are made of to get through the chasis.

If anyone is in the hills area and has all the tools and wants to lend a hand Send me a PM and we can work out an arrangement!

Thanks!

Colin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/410203-holesaw-to-cut-through-chasis/
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info guys, will try bunnings soon.

Do i need cutting compound / lubricant?

I have an electric drill with the handle, is the correct process to just back on and off the throttle to make it spin instead of doing it quickly?

Thanks guys!

Colin

I'm no expert with this type of thing, but my only advice will be measure 3 times and cut once :)

While you are there grab some touch up paint and also some rubber stripping to finish the job off nicely :yes:

^ spot on man! yea I purchased a 3 inch holesaw from bunnings a couple years ago now and it set me back around $80 from memory so yea not cheap. and it is possible to do it with a cordless(not a riobi or ozito). I used my 18v li ion milwaukee and did the job just fine. If you were in brisbane I'd offer to give u a hand.

Im sorry, but I have to ask, WHY are you going through the middle of the chassis?

I can understand cutting a touch off the ends of the rails, but it you're inside the radiator support, don't go through the chassis rail!

Inner guard is completely different to the chassis rail. I think the OP should confirm where he intends to cut.

I also advise once cut to put some extra metal bracing like VSI06 advises.

I have a 33 GTSt that had that same hole cut in it, previously owner had a minor bingle, inner guard crumpled WAYYY more then it should have if the hole hadn't been cut.

CRC or WD40 sprayed on by a mate is a good coolant/lubricant too and a bit less messy than normal oil. Will just end up using more of it, is all.

Also, don't drill a pilot hole. Just centrepunch it properly. The drill in the centre of the hole saw is small enough to pilot properly and will stay in position better if you don't pre-drill.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes...but look at the numbers. There is a tiny tiny fraction of the number of Joules available, compared to what is used/needed. Just because things are "possible" doesn't make them meaningful.
    • Thanks for taking the time to post that ! If anything changes or happens please do update us. 
    • Somehow Vertimass/Oak Ridge National Labs has figured out a catalyst that can convert ethanol into C9-C10 hydrocarbons in basically a single step without ending up with a bunch of ethylene or similar waste products: https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2023224867A1/en I still don't think anything like this will keep us from needing to transition to EVs regardless along with all kinds of other electrification, but things like this will go a long way towards alleviating the problem of how to electrify things like planes. Renewable diesel is seemingly an easier problem as well, Chevron is already running refineries for the stuff and the primary feedstock is tallow and other waste fats from agriculture.
    • Ok so I have sorted everything with my uniclutch and  i can offer up a bit of feedback and some things that might help others.    I found problems with factory damper line. Weird shit and had trouble with peddle adjustment    I used this https://au.gktech.com/products/r33-gts-t-skyline-braided-clutch-line?_pos=2&_sid=22b01b9b9&_ss=r Also when adjusting peddle leave a bit of play. You can get into a over stroke condition easy.. Make sure you can push the slave forward after adjusting to confirm fluid can return to master then you will need to pump it up heaps…..not sure why but that’s how it is.    last thing the splined adapter is machined perfectly. If your input shaft is old like mine was I would put a bit of valve grinding paste on it and stroke it like a 15 year old. Just to give it a tad more clearance and to better match it to the spline.    reason is on a near flat shift I have had situation where the peddle returns a millisecond after you lift from the clutch. No slip or anything but I reckon this is due to tolerance on the spline being way tighter than stock clutch and binding for a sec. I think this will go away but also my spline was old. Box is old so I guess I should have checked better. It’s a super neat fit.    it feels light as and holds awesome without any noise    
    • My Fuga Hybrid is JDM, 2014 model but very similar to the V37 from the looks of things..same platform just physically larger and very comfortab;e
×
×
  • Create New...