Jump to content
SAU Community

Some Question Before My Upgrade Week (Finally)!


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I bought it ages ago - but you can find them around for as cheap as $200 or so 2nd hand (mine is the limited edition black, so was about $100 more when new). But the SAFC Neo with the funky colour screen and better gauges has replaced the SAFCII. They are around $500 brand new.

I fitted it myself (it is only around 5 wires), and Martin Donnon at Willall Racing Tuned it. I gained about 5rwkw and up to 100Nm of torque in places from the tune.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks mate!

On another side note - since I installed the plenum spacer/z tube/rev-up airbox i've noticed my car idles a little low (~550-600), and sometimes when I turn it on (after the engines warmed up) the revs will drop so low that the car will turn off. It always turns on again the second time.

I've gone through all the plenum bolts and tightened them up - and checked around the edge of the plenum and there seems to be no leaks. I've also checked the z-tube and the airbox and everything seems to be nice and tight.

When I was taking everything apart for the install I did accidentally touched the maf sensor thing inside the maf housing, so don't know if this has something to do with it:?

I guess I want to know whether the car acting like that is bad/dangerous for the engine, and whether it's a common problem after these mods? I read somewhere on another forum that the car takes a while to get used to the new mods.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That ECU reset doesn't work.

What you should be looking at is the manual reset, which is a combination of throttle pedal pumps timed in a certain way. You can also achieve the throttle postion check, and idle re-learn, all of which you should do after those mods. Just search, and you'll find the combination.

Also "resetting" the ecu is just clearing the learned fuel settings, which is all based around the O2 sensor readings.  

The other thing you should check out is the rear face of the throttle body for build up of contamination. This cause the TB to stick and lead to idle issues.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tried the ecu reset and thing it worked.

However when i tried the trottle body reset i have no idea whether it worked :S it says in the instructions that if the car stalls as soon as you try to turn it on again then it didn't work and thats what happened to me. Any tips on doing throttle body reset?

I think I'm going to try cleaning my maf first to see if that helps - has anyone attempted this before?

The idle issue isn't major right?

edit: I might also clean my throttle body - noticed a bit of black gunk inside it. Are there any good products I can use to clean both the throttle body and MAF?

Edited by itpesaf
Link to comment
Share on other sites

annoying, but not major.

When doing the idle reset, the car at normal running temp (hot) should rev up to about 1700rpm, and drop slowly to just above stall, pick back up and normalise. The ECU will read if idle learning has been completed.

You can clean the MAF, its good practice. Use an electrical contact cleaner, or auto shop MAF cleaner. Other general cleaners may be too harsh esp carb cleaner. Make sure you have no vacuum leaks- all hoses plugged back in, the oil filler rubber isn't folded into the plenum (guilty of that :P), and you have evenly tightened down the plenum. Its really doesn't need to be too tight, as it can warp. I use a drill with a 10mm socket, and a little tweak with a socket.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks mate, I reckon i'll clean both the throttle body/maf and then do the reset and hopefully that works.

Oh and i looked around the edge of the plenum and it seems like there are no folds in the gasket, and the rubber around the oil cap isn't caught in the plenum either.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do a bit of a search on the throttle body cleaning. Read up first. There is a few do's and don'ts.

hope you sort it out.

If no luck, get the error codes flashed/read, and see if there is a different sensor issue (Crank/cam sensors)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok found out what the problem was - in my excitement I had forgotten to use the washers for the 6 inner plenum bolts lol.. and because they have those plastic inner plenum spacers I had to remove everything to take the bolts out to put the washers on :S luckily it seems to have worked for now - hopefully the issue has been fixed!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello,new to the group, I bought a R32 from auction recently, wondering if anyone knows the cars history, seems to have the usual go fast bits on it, plan is to do an engine swap- add 2 extra cylinders and 1 extra turbo. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/i4rjmlzubjbwjtguh6f4s/IMG20241011140744.jpg?rlkey=q0lumm251377vknbqktfwrycq&st=7scvwx4e&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ro24qmwzlczzlfsr4y05x/Screenshot_2024-10-10-10-49-23-90_9a2f5bb2149dae94cd1e190effc09b33.jpg?rlkey=oyguh26ttshlf04ccp48odf4v&st=xloae97b&dl=0   New to forums and posting pics, if links don't work, take it easy on me, 42yrs old and I tune carburettors!!  
    • As far as I know, Infiniti stopped importing vehicles before 2020, even though they were still selling their stock for at least a year or 2 after that, they were older build years, therefore, you can import a 2020 400R, because you couldn't buy an AuDM 2020 built Q50 RS. As for insurance, you might need to go through one of the enthusiast insurance companies, they tend to insure a lot more grey import models than the mainstream insurers as Duncan mentioned.
    • loved seeing the zenvo on the a1 just after the hatfield tunnel i was the guy in the white van trying to egg you on it sounded awesome and those exhausts glowing red inside insane cheers for the thumbs up tim and tom.
    • So.... when I'm finally getting around to having my power steering leak sorted, now it looks like I've got the same issue most A/T Skylines are having. My A/T light will randomly come on and I'm stuck in 3rd gear until I turn the car off and on again. Only 3 weeks ago I did a complete transmission service: Oil flush + new gasket + new filter. This came out of nowhere!! It wasn't like the car was driven hard. I drove about 3 mins down the road to get fuel and boom!!!  Anyway, I have a few questions and hope you fine people can help me out here. All questions are in red. 1. The solenoids: I was looking at the parts catalogue in Amayama and I could only find the Solenoids as an assembly. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/319404ax05 I read in another thread that Solenoid A = 31940-4AX02 & Solenoid B = 31940-4AX05 but the Amayama product has only the code of B. Is this the right part? Can anyone who has done the Solenoid changes or seen them confirm if this is the complete set of A & B?   2. Gasket and Filter: I'm not going to try change the solenoids myself because it seems difficult to do in a home garage with just 2 jack stands. I plan to take it to a shop and get it changed. I was also going to buy the transmission sump gasket at the same time so I don't reuse the same gasket. Should I just use the existing gasket as it has only been on the car since OCT 19th? (~3 weeks) Should I be buying a brand-new gasket and a filter? Does this job involve taking the filter out?   Thanks in advance to everyone. It's hard to find a video of someone doing a solenoid change on a R34 so any help you can give answering my remaining questions would make me less stressed.
    • Yea - From what I have seen from the video, the car idles like any R34 lol 50PSI of fuel pressure is hardly super abnormal, the regulator is working because the pressure remains static when the throttle gets revved, i.e pressure remains the same when manifold vaccuum changes. Bigger pumps on stock rails always bumped the pressure in the rail without using an aftermarket regulator to change that. Do you know what your IAC is actually doing? Has there been any data showing the stepper motor % etc? There's no way your idle is actually moving around the way the cluster(s) are indicating. You would hear the difference with the engine RPM flying to 3k and 1k in mere seconds. I'd be checking the wiring to the tacho. What the tacho is telling you and what the engine/ecu is telling you are different things. I assume your ECU doesn't display the spike. So whatever is telling the tacho to be at X rpm is doing something weird. When the going gets insane, you're on the wrong path. You've ruled out plenty of things that are working correctly/aren't the issue. Your idle isn't doing what the tacho is indicating. You have two seperate issues, I don't think they are linked, and the idle seems reasonably okay unless it's stalling which.. well, it hasn't. Troubleshoot the stall if it occurs by figuring out what your IAC is doing vs what it is being told to do.
×
×
  • Create New...