Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm fitting an aftermarket computer and have the option of running a more modern air intake temperature sensor as oppose to the stock rb26 one that is slow and soaks up the heat of the intake manifold. I am also fitting an r34 intercooler which has a nice hole to mount the sensor on the end tank. Will this give accurate readings or will i need to mount it much closer to the intake manifold.

4pvawy.jpg

I can't see the intake manifold being the best place for that sensor (WTF were Nissan thinking?).

Anywhere between the cold side of the cooler (where you have circled) and before it hits the engine bay. That way it doesn't get warm from heatsoak.

could run 35 gtr afm's if your keeping afm's that is

as they have air temp sensors built in to them :)

Maybe so. But after the turbos heat the air, then the cooler cools the air, what is the actual temp

Of the incoming charge?

I can't see the intake manifold being the best place for that sensor (WTF were Nissan thinking?).

Anywhere between the cold side of the cooler (where you have circled) and before it hits the engine bay. That way it doesn't get warm from heatsoak.

Makes sense to me. Closer to the chamber the better.

I can't see the intake manifold being the best place for that sensor (WTF were Nissan thinking?).

Anywhere between the cold side of the cooler (where you have circled) and before it hits the engine bay. That way it doesn't get warm from heatsoak.

exactly, dumb suggestion that one was. Pretty sure he isn't using MAF based setup anyway.

If you use the gizzmo gasket on the plenum, the factory sensor spot apparently reads much better as you don't get the level of heat transfer.

remember reading someone testing that back a while ago. Still doesn't help the factory sensor is really slow though, but at least once caught up it was certainly lower and more realistic.

exactly, dumb suggestion that one was. Pretty sure he isn't using MAF based setup anyway.

If you use the gizzmo gasket on the plenum, the factory sensor spot apparently reads much better as you don't get the level of heat transfer.

remember reading someone testing that back a while ago. Still doesn't help the factory sensor is really slow though, but at least once caught up it was certainly lower and more realistic.

hook line sinker Nismoid head

Did I hear a stfu? Oh sorry that was me. The best place to mount that bitch is as close to the intake valve as possible. Passing air will take care of heat soak bitches. But mounting that shit in the port aint going to happen now is it bushies? Put it as close to your throttle body as possible. Right where your f**king blow off valve should be. Just after that bitch. That is about an inch. Gota keep that pressure in the cooler now dont we?! (more swearing and cursing)

Edited by Room42

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @joshuaho96 Hmm considering the drama you've seen/experienced, have you looked into getting a built complete long motor shipped from Australia?  Considering the AUD is basically monopoly money when compared to the USD, at a glance this seems like a good option?
    • Bloody Skylines, they put you through the bloody wringer! Stick at it! Stunning drag strip BTW! Where is it? Can see part of the name on the slip and probably should just Google it!
    • I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
×
×
  • Create New...