Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Trying to fix my A/C in My wifes R33 GTST but am finding dead ends wherever I look.

I have Checked all relays and continuity of all wiring. I have also ruled out low pressure sensor. The system is holding pressure and the compressor runs and cools the car when I earth the a/c relay or bridge the pressure sensor plug. I have also check the eccu for correct voltage at pin out 46. The only problem I have found is there is no dip in voltage of pin out 9 when the on off switch is activated.

Is There any auto elects out there that have some answers.

Any other ideas would be awesome.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/410794-trouble-shooting-ac-in-r33/
Share on other sites

just put another relay in, I had the same issue trying to fix Ph@t-G's foglights & horn, The relays were fine, checked continuity, everything.. then I was like fine I'll just try different relays. Turns out the relays were fried, they couldn't handle the current.

I guess I will just cross that one off the list too. Doesn't seem to want to be fixed. The strange thing is It cools all the relays will work when bypasses are made at varying points. The climate control module is switching correctly and the compressor is working and cooling the car. The only thing is that if there is not an earth to trick the system, nothing runs. Starting to get fricken real annoying.

I guess I will just cross that one off the list too. Doesn't seem to want to be fixed. The strange thing is It cools all the relays will work when bypasses are made at varying points. The climate control module is switching correctly and the compressor is working and cooling the car. The only thing is that if there is not an earth to trick the system, nothing runs. Starting to get fricken real annoying.

hrms, maybe the engine harness is loose? or even the interior loom to engine/ecu harness is loose.. check those connectors.. they should mate into the ecu loom

I thought that too. I went to a wrecker and tried two other ecu's making no change. The other thing I'm thinking of trying is pulling out the the unit under the dash and checking the thernistor. Just about out of ideas. I am thinking that if that resistor is no good the the computer won't allow the a/c to be turned on. Its just a matter of working out what needs to come out to get to it.

Had air con re-gassed. That's when all this started. The system had absolutely no gas in it . But there are no leaks and as I have said before. The compressor runs and cools when earthed. But not when using climate control. It may be taking a while to fix this. But I'm not going to let it beat me. I have had three profesionals look at it so far and I seem to be doing all the research. On the plus side I know how the car is being pulled apart and put back together and not having to pay someone by the hour to be removing a'll the interior bits and pieces is also a save. I'm going to know the r33 pretty well after all this. Lol.

is there a -ve current going to the A/C relay at least? I am guessing here, but have you check the A/C fan relay as well? I would be surprised if the A/C compressor & A/C fan relays are connected in series.

Have you got yourself a full wiring diagram to follow?

If you do, start at one point and work through the entire wiring system.

A/C Clutch should get a 12V+ current to the wire for the clutch and grounds through the body of the compressor. Shouldn't be a 0VDC current.

I have two different wiring diagrams although they do not show the complete wiring of the a/c components. They do however show the car wiring to relays. They do not show the thermistor or the other sensors or components.

What I have done this evening quickly was look closer at the relay wiring. If I add earth to pin 1 on the compressor relay, while it is plugged in, it closes the circuit. Then the climate control unit will turn the compressor and A/C on and off. The issue now is that the compressor does not cut out when it should. The idle advance drops and raises the idle when the compressor should cycle on and off but the compressors remains on.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

iv had the trouble in my R33 of my ac switching on and the often (but not always) off again after only 5-10 secs of being on (this is in A/C on mode with 18 degrees selected so technically should run indefinately in warm weather as the interior isnt 18degrees before it switches off sometimes). Sometimes it doesnt even switch on.

THo there is no constant situation (like hot or cold ambient) where it runs, is intermittent or doesnt switch on in.

There is plenty of refridgerant as the view glass is nice n green when on and the air is nice and cold.

Iv run the diagnostic mode and no faults.

anybody know what might be the cause of this or experienced it?

otherwise can you access all of the cars sensors via a consult cable and program? im sure that one of the sensors must be shitty and so going outside its operating range quickly and then switching the AC off. Tho its problem doesnt show in diagnostic mode...

Anybody? (i cant go another summer without it working)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...