Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wanting to know what everyone thinks re order of works, brands and models etc. Like a menu reference for someone like me and others with a Stagea and new to modifying.

I.e

Fmic best suited.

Safe boost for stock turbo.

What larger turbo to use.

Etc etc etc.

But broken down into

1.

2.

3.

With what other owners have done.

Regards.

Justin

It would help to know how much money you want to spend over what period of time and if you have a power goal but some very basics:

1. 3in turbo back exhaust.

2. High flow panel filter for your airbox (supposing you still have the stock airbox).

3. Bypass the boost solenoid and get a cheap boost T (or an expensive electronic boost controller if your'e so inclined) and run about 10psi.

4. Heavy duty sway bar (anti-roll bar) for the rear e.g. Whiteline BNR11 XX 24mm) which will dramatically improve cornering.

5. Plan to get a brand new fuel pump.

Check to see if your auto fluid has been replaced (ever) and think about getting a S2 or aftermarket trans cooler. Replace your brake fluid with something like Motul RBF600. Check your rotors and if ok get some quality pads next time.

Have a look around this forum for lots more ideas of how to lighten your wallet and make your car better! Read the RB25DET turbo upgrade in the forced induction section for examples of mods and what they have acheived.

Basic mods people do:

Turbo back exhaust- better flowing especially in top end.

FMIC- depending on plans for car.

Boost controller- increase boost, standard turbo 10psi, 12 Max.

Air filter- panel better in standard box as said above.

Sway bars- front and rear if possible for best handling.

Strut braces- ordered through importer from Japan.

Coolers- oil, trans, depending on Wat car will be used for.

Turbos- high flow of standard, high flow + 3076 internal conversion an frot housing changed, 3076r. All with braided lines.

Brakes- better pads, and new rotors, or upgrade to r33 or r34 brakes with slotted rotors and good pads, or brembo with more modifications.

Head work- cams, cam gears, oil restrictors (I believe are needed in the neo's.

Suspension-full adjustable arms

Coilovers/lowered springs- depends on wat the owner prefers interms of stiffness and adjustability and use of car as too Wat is best for the car.

This is basic list. Depending on price and how far u want to go. And Wat the car is used for. On phone so can't put wat is best when. But as most people would hopefully think he same, always try to upgrade ur handling and brakes (ie safety stuff) before starting in power. I find ways the point in the power if the car can't stop or handle a corner.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
    • Yep, looks that way. Never driven an E30 or R31 so I can only imagine  
    • Yuh, My new R34 box is sitting on the workshop floor (in its large shipping box, which is a nice thing on its own), along with a front plate to convert to push clutch. There was no way I was interested in rebuilding my existing one. Was only partly interested in the risk of buying a used one. But, if you want a 2nd hander, I can point you to one in/near Melbourne at least. @Komdotkom has one that should be in good enough condition to be usable. I don't think it's in a for sale thread, you'd have to message him. @redzedhas one that definitely needs a rebuild.
    • I used to love going to Amaroo to watch the HQ series go for broke (eventually stopped due to lack of spare parts) and also the Porsche series.  It was so cool to back your car up to nearly the edge of the viewing barrier and party with your friends, having a bbq and alcoholic/non drinks. It was such a family/mates atmosphere
×
×
  • Create New...