Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

This started happening yesterday morning, but was hard to diagnose due to lots of condensation (was a bit chilly yesterday morning). Basically what happened, is when i would drive off, then stop, smoke would come out. And when i accelerate then back off. Smoke would come out again. Doesn't look like it comes out while actually accelerating, only in between. (if that makes sense?)

After work, i got the old man to follow me around, he said only a small puff came out when i left my house then nothing but a bit of blackish/grey smoke under boost (normal i believe with a stock ECU). Did a few tests, light load - high/low revs, 4th under load up hill and WOT. small cloud of smoke under boost. Werid...

Anyway, while i was driving today i noticed quite a alarming rate of smoke coming from my exhaust, i pulled in and took this video.

https://dl.dropbox.c...1009_082732.mp4

It won't smoke when it is idling, but when accelerating it puffs out like crazy, the car was warm when the video was taking. It seems worse when the engine is cold. Looks like a bluey smoke, so im thinking oil??

Tips on how to diagnose whats wrong with my car appreciated!

Temps seem fine, Still goes the same (not that i gave it a hard time due to the smoke screen).

Hoping its turbo related because i am replacing them. I'm scared to drive on it, and you know have this lame thing called work, really don't want my engine to go BOOM

Edited by Booki
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411139-gtr-blowing-smoke-help-troubleshoot/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Looks like condensation. Chilly morning = condensation, especially if you don't drive the car very much.

Take the car for a long drive and see if it still does it when the weather is warm (read - above 20deg c)

Looks like condensation. Chilly morning = condensation, especially if you don't drive the car very much.

Take the car for a long drive and see if it still does it when the weather is warm (read - above 20deg c)

I thought it was condensation too, But I dunno. It seemed a little "blue" and heavy for condensation.

I will take another vid when I move to my next job site.

Hado - I checked my coolant last night, looked normal green color. Will check it before i drive off again.

Ok, Started it up to go drop it at home.

No smoke...Revved it a little, no smoke. Wasn't even worth taking a video.

Even on the drive home, nothing came out.

Decided to play it safe, and drop the car off at home. Gave it a bit of a rev when i got in the garage and a small puff came out, but then nothing after wards.

Beats me... It was BAD this morning. Now, nothing. Regardless using the bike till i figure out wtf is going on.

and Hado - Coolant levels normal, still green.

Update: checked coolant. Its used some, although it is still clean of what i can see of it. Checked oil cap, and all looks good from that view, as well dipstick oil. Color looks normal. So i don't think its a head gasket (least im hoping not)

Stock turbos

Edited by Booki

white smoke on rb26 usually means turbo seals. have a look in the coolant reservoir tank. can you smell oil? incorrect anti-freeze ratio can also cause white puffs of smoke. do full coolant flush from block and see how it goes from there. my gtr does it on WOT. no biggie.

Starting to replace my turbo's, and noticed the rear one was seeping oil.

Intercooler also had some oil in it too.

So far have all the piping off, turbo heat sheilds off, undone the front pipe bolts to the dumps.

It's coming along alright so far, only because the old man is helping out (by helping out i mean doing 90% of it).

Hopefully we don't get stuck, the job itself doesn't seem hard. Its just all the variables (rusted nuts/bolts, tight space) that make it difficult.

Dam RB26

  • 3 weeks later...

Ok....Started up the GTR with BRAND NEW -7 turbo's, let it idle for a bit while i was putting in my fresh coolant (you know the drill) and the same shitty smoke was there.

No where near as bad as the video posted up, but still noticeable.

Idea's?

Hard to tell, Only started it twice.

Turbo's have only just been put on, have not driven car due to it not being tuned.

The smoke is hard to describe, it looks like condensation but right now its about 22 degrees? So i don't think its condensation.

Smoke comes out on de-acceleration.

Only revved it as high as 2500-3000rpm

I have a similar issue with a customers car. I tried a new pcv Valve to eliminate it from the diagnosis and the issue is still there.

As Dan has said, more than likely valve stem seals.

They are a pain to diagnose tho.

Have u done comp and leakdown test?

Havnt done compression or leak down tests yet. Will do some more trouble shooting when I finish up work for the day. Hoping its not a head gasket or rebuild time, only put 5000kms on it since ownership :(

Will try and get a video up, keep me posted on how you go with your customers car :)

Edited by Booki

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I believe mine is helical and not clutch type. During drifting one wheel was spining as if it was open diff so bought kazz 1.5 way and has sat on my shelf for the past 5 years as I want to learn shiming process and do it myself   in meantime thought I change the diff oil hence post here. So any 75-90?   i am pretty sure r34 are helical not clutch lsd as standard . That is gtt ones
    • Throw between gears are so much that is getting annoying. I have pro short shifter on my mx5 and e36 and love it . Skyline is getting unbearable    would syncro issues and short shifter is no no? Anyone mind explaining a little on why before i buy cube
    • No. Well, some people "seem to use redline shockproof in the diff". Most do not. I would only contemplate it if you have badly worn CW&P gears. And no. No-one in their right mind has ever put ATF into a diff. Any normal diff/gear oil of the right viscosity will do. Whatever takes your fancy. Castrol, Nulon, Penrite, Redline MT range. Whatever. It's just gears. 75W-90 or 80W-90 is typical. I think that GL-5 is hard to avoid these days, although I think that a GL-4 is probably preferred, given the vintage of the equipment. At least Redline offer a number of GL-4 oils. If you have a clutch type LSD instead of the VLSD, then of course you need a proper LSD oil. Anything from any of the same names above. If you have a helical LSD, then it does not require LSD oil, and the recco is the same as for the VLSD. You don't want the LSD friction modifiers in the oil for a non-clutch type LSD if you can avoid it.  
    • You may want to list it up for a little higher - This price is much lower than you may realize. Here you're pretty much selling to people who most likely already have these things on their own rigs. S chassis people eat this stuff up like you'd not believe.
    • I had my car for over 10 years and done around few thousand miles but never changed the oil. thinking of changing it.   what brand and viscocity would you put in ? people seem to use redline shockproof in the diff   on  contraty seen others using atf dexron 2 or 3 so wanted to check. is it 1 liter?
×
×
  • Create New...