Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just did a search and didnt find anyone with the same problem. (I hope that's not the case!).

Yesterday found my heater doesnt appear to work.. Fans come on though no heat... (going to try air con this afternoon).

Anyone seen this before?

I hope its something simple... (though it rarely is!).

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411214-heater-not-working-m35/
Share on other sites

What temp did you have it set to? 18 degrees won't work, it just blows outside air.

If the heater stops working you most probably have low coolant. It only takes a few cups to be missing for it to stop flowing through the heater circuit. Wait for it to cool down completely before checking it, then go through the Voodoo bleeding procedure, again and again.

Mine's the opposite!

If its set to 18deg on aircon it blows cold, but on anything else, it blows hot (even set to 18.5deg)!

Ditto on mine, only since my accident though. Im surprised the boss hasn't made you fix it yet :P

could be a few things. there is a motor that drives the temperature control, which opens/closes a valve to the heater core. and also down under the steering wheel, to the left, on the removeable panel is a small vent with a pipe from the AC. check to make sure thats operational. i believe there is a sensor in there.

also make sure the dash sensor for sunlight is plugged in and/or operational

i have spares of them all, if required

  • Thanks 1

could be a few things. there is a motor that drives the temperature control, which opens/closes a valve to the heater core. and also down under the steering wheel, to the left, on the removeable panel is a small vent with a pipe from the AC. check to make sure thats operational. i believe there is a sensor in there.

I know the one you're talking about, I'll have to check that out, I had that panel off to disconnect the VSS switch for my roadworthy inspection (Being able to alter your exhaust flow whilst driving is illegal *ugh*) so I may have missed that one

Edit: Took too long to type. lol. You guys beat me to it.

You need to find the in cabin temp sensor, I think it might be under the steering wheel where you can see a little vent in the lower cover. It has a rubber tube attached to it. If this is the sensor, perhaps it is dirty or the hose has come off?

It will blow hot air until the temp has been reached under the dash, this may take a while with the vents blowing air on your face. Or the sensor is shagged?

  • Thanks 1

damn... just had a look at everything.. got coolant spray on both sides of the radiator.. looks like im up for a new radiator... :(

Anyone got a part number/price?

Scotty i take it your wreck has one still? :)

Is this a common thing to fail? if so should prob get a new one..

Edited by Sage222

The top tanks are usually the first thing to go. Hot coolant and being made of plastic makes the brittle, and they crack. Either that or the seal around the top tank.

Bottom tank is usually ok, becuase its cool by the time it gets down there.

Rad shops can replace top tanks, but easier option is the wrecker one I guess.

A new replacement one isn't cheap, around $350 - $400.

I have a second hand one in the wreck for sale, and I may also get rid of my new stock one as it is too thin for the track. It's only a few months old... Let me know.

the good thing is, a leaky radiator will last for at least 3 months.

mine leaked for ages. it was only seeping

Probably not something you want to risk with summer just around the corner.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...