Wtb [Qld]: 1996/7 R33 Gts-T Standard (Or As Close Too)

[ffh4500]

Hi all,

I am in a position to purchase a stock standard (as close to stock as possible) Skyline. Here are my must have's:

• Must be stock (as close to stock as possible), with the exception of exhaust and mag wheels although I would prefer standard exhaust.
  
• Must have less than 120k on the odometer and be able to prove it.
  
• Must be manual.
  
• Everything else must be stock standard and must have RWC. Whilst I would prefer one with rego I can fix that up.
  

I don't care too much what colour it is although I am not fond of the grey ones. I would prefer a car with no extra gauges in the cockpit, the standard ones should be fine. An after market cluster is fine but you must be able to prove the K's on it and before it was fitted.

I have the cash ready to go but am happy to wait for the right car. I will want to test drive first and do all the normal checks (REV's and Car History).

Please PM me with details and photo's. Please include photo's of the interior and engine bay.

I am happy for a discussion in this thread on any prospects.

Cheers,

Richard.

[defari]

Pro tip: Ditch the idea of genuine mileage. Ain't gonna happen

[mystery_kid]

how is anyone going to be able to prove kilometers unless they bought the car brand new themselves in japan?

[ffh4500]

how is anyone going to be able to prove kilometers unless they bought the car brand new themselves in japan?

Sorry just to clarify, I would like K's in Australia to be proven. IE if it has a Nismo cluster, when was it fitted and how many K's did the original OD have on it?

I get real sick and tired of going to have a look at a car with Genuine low K's to find out it has a 300k/hr speedo. Jap imports don't have 300k/hr speedo's. That's all I am trying to avoid here. Don't show me a 300k/hr speedo with 60k on it and say it's genuine.

Besides that you can do a car history check on most Jap imports for the K's at the time of import and then look at the service history from there. Is it fool proof, hell no. Is it better than "Genuine" K's on an after market cluster? Hell yes. Just don't want a drive train with 2-300k on it, no matter how good the compression is on the motor.

Cheers.

Edited October 28, 2012 by ffh4500