Jump to content
SAU Community

Anyone Know This Car/person + Possibly Check Out? In Chadstone


Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I'm fairly interested in this GTT, I'm wanting to buy one and it has to be 2000, GTT, Black and manual and fairly stock.

This basically fits the bill and I've been looking for 2 months or so...anyway. TBH the price is a bit high, so first of all I'd like to know if anybody knows who owns this car OR whether they are on this forum.

If so, or even if not, is anyone able to check it out for me? I haven't contacted the seller yet. I just want to gauge whether anybody can help.

Cheers.

Any tips, knowledge etc feel free to throw my way.

Car is &sort=default"]here, click please!

Edited by darksky34

Yeah I don't believe it's 70 000 km either! Too good to be true.

@enka, 17k is a bit out of my range, considering the fact that I may have to either organise transport for the car up to NSW OR flying down and driving it up myself...well I guess this is something I'll have to work out with the seller anyway.

Why 2000? arnt they identical to 98/99? If you do want it for low kms, I'd be making sure it has log books/ service history etc...

guessing those 70,xxx are from when the dash was changed.. lol

The only reason to tell is its condition really, how the motor runs, rust, rips/tears in drivers seat etc.

If I was you I'd stick to one that's been unmolested, that way you may have a bit more of

an idea on its actual odometer reading.

When I was looking for my 34 I spent nearly 12 months waiting for the "perfect" one to pop up, they are few and far between!

@jack - 12 months????? oh.....my...........well I guess you're right, no point buying a piece of crap in a rush. but 12 months WOW. the 2000 is the 'series 2', from 1998-late 1999 are the series 1 and then very late 1999/2000-2001 are the series 2, i believe. minor cosmetic changes in both exterior and interior, and perhaps some changes in components but no overall major differences (from my very very basic knowledge of this history). I like the look of the series 2 much more, and, though not always the case, an older car is older and therefore more likely to be worn/used/etc etc.

@enka, 17k is a bit out of my range, considering the fact that I may have to either organise transport for the car up to NSW OR flying down and driving it up myself...well I guess this is something I'll have to work out with the seller anyway.

just drive it back to NSW, buy a one-way ticket, easy! I did this with my 32, one-way ticket to Adelaide and drive back next day! Sweet drive!

i wouldnt even bother because of the simple fact he said "sms" if interested..

and also only 2 front coilovers?

smsing is wasting time, genuine sellers/buyers would rather a phone call

OP, if you're under any illusion that a used skyline of any age has not had a nice thrashing you're kidding yourself. Difference of 2 years between a 98 and a 2000 model is hardly worth paying extra for. Likewise, $17k is pricey for a car that's basically stock. 2 door GTT (turbo) coupes can be bought for $10-12k now, so I wouldn't rush in to buying one if you have time to look around.

@GTTR34 point taken good sir, but I am well aware of it already. of course it will have been thrashed, what i mean is that if you have the choice of buying an older car or a newer car you're still more likely to take the newer one - based on the assumption that a newer car has had less time on earth to be thrashed (but of course this is a massive variability in reality!)

and so yes, i definitely won't be paying 17k for that basically stock car. Having said that, where have you seen GTTs that go for 10-12? I've had my eye on the market for 2 months and never ever seen one that low.

Chris, i bought my R34 GTT 4D for $11500... And it was in great condition besides a broken wheel bearing.

That was a private sale that i found on carsales aswel.

Oh also it was a 1999, but it came with a FMIC, Pod, Hicas Lock bar, turbo timer, aftermarket Headunit, wheels(dunno what), and an exhaust.

Edited by Steve37

Wtf guys ! That's ridiculous ! Holy crap. Went with a mate to the import yards today in Sydney, there were like 2 gtts out of 2 entire yards. There seems to be a shortage going on.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The plan is to get it out of the shed. The reality may fall some way short. But hope is as cheap as despair as they say. Will go a wide band I think. The coils are ok so maybe I’ll miss the $1500 on the R35 coils etc. Im still on the fence about a trigger kit. The HKS one looks nice ($1k) - not sure how it works with the Link or if Link prefer something else. Oil pressure is fine so I’m not that concerned there. Fuel pressure I’ll have a think about. The IAT got changed for the Link anyway as the old RB26 ones were really slow reacting and pretty poor. The Power FC just worked. Wasn’t terribly refined but it just worked. Probably made a mistake replacing it really. E85 isn’t available locally - it is 100+ kms away which puts it in the too hard basket. Lastly I understand Tunecorp in Perth are pretty good so was probably going there.   As for turbos is there are new age -5 drop in replacement? Turbos have come a long way in 20 years, everyone is big single which is fair enough but I prefer the old school complication of twins. Wasn’t chasing more power (well, not much more) but more efficiency would be ok.
    • I thought I'd share this....the shell is non genuine but they found or built a lot of the genuine parts. Plus, it is by far the best colour scheme of those years, the winfield once was particularly shit https://www.v8sleuth.com.au/written-off-inaugural-godzilla-recreated/
    • Good work Pete and glad the car held up well....been a while since I've seen you try properly
    • Just quick update, I've had tech issues and so a backlog on life stuff....I will pull lap times from the video and data from the ECU logs to do a proper update. But basically, in order of importance: 1. The car was excellent fun on the track, really felt a lot like the good old days. And nice to have AC while waiting 2. Coolant got really hot; again I need to pull and analyse the logs but the standard system is not up to tracking at 30o+ days, once the system was heat soaked after the first 2x15min sessions I could only do 3 laps before it got 110+ and I had to cool down. If I can't improve that it is a deal breaker 3 Oil temps were fine all day, noting it was short sessions due to 2. I think it will likely need work 4 Biggest surprise AT temps were fine, never went over 100, I would have been OK with 120 before I was too concerned. The auto sucks compared to a manual (of course) but it is faster to launch and I just need to downshift it manually before hitting the throttle, then it was OK. When I post the vids you'll hear it telling me off (beeping) for trying to downshift too early (it needs about 3500 before it will downshift, depending on gear a little but we are mostly talking 3/2 and 4/3) 5 A052s were not great which hurt the lap times, but I will be constrained in what I can get in good tyres that fit the wheel wells. These were small for a heavy car at 235/45/18. In theory I can fit 9.5 on front and 10.5 rear (so not square) but I still need 670mm+ high tyres in good brands. 6 Standard shocks/springs/roll bar are too soft for track work (of course), but that was always on the list. And happily, no white on the mat, despite having a teenaged passenger, extinguisher mount was fine. Also, it was nice to have Wakefield Park back in action  . Because the car was so quiet it is eligible for Green Day, which I thought was a band but is apparently a series of cheaper practice days they run with a lower sound limit, that is a smart idea.  
    • Great to hear you are bringing it out of the shed again. Unless you have specific issues I'd just add the wideband, get a good tune and enjoy it. Certainly no point changing coils etc if they are working. If would add fuel pressure and e85 sensor if you are doing a general update but not if it runs OK and you are just getting it back on track. The other thing is smaller, modern twins, -5 are OK for motorsport but pretty laggy and old tech for street use (of course, if performance is the priority a modern single with twin scroll manifold etc is the go but not cheap). The final thing worth considering is switching to an ethrottle if drivability is still an issue, it should make things a lot simpler and smoother
×
×
  • Create New...