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Dry Sump Plumbing Sizes For Rb26/30 Build......

Ramius83

By Ramius83,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Ramius83 Collaborator

Ramius83

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Ok guys. I am coming down to the nitty-gritty part of this build. I am building an 800AWHP RB26/30 S14, yep, already converted to AWD.....no bashing please.

I am running the Ross Dampener and Drive gear, driving an Aviad 4 stage oil pump using the Ross Pump bracket to the existing A/C compressor bracket holes in block. Three scavenges have been modified to the GTR oil pan. Running a 19 tooth sprocket on the crank mandrel and a 38 tooth pump sprocket.

Now, it is coming down to the hose sizes.......as this subject is different across the board.

This is my current thought process for this part:

Tank to pump (feed/suction to pump) = -12AN

Pump to Greddy Relocation block with oil cooler, block to engine (pressure side) = all -10AN

Scavenges from oil pan to pump = -10AN

Return from pump to tank = -12AN

Does this sound about right? Anything sound too small? Car will be a fun weekend car, some dragging at the strip, maybe a few road course events in the future. What do you guys think?

Also, on a side note. I will be capping off the valve covers, running about 10in/Hg in the crank case, and running a vent tank on the oil tank, sound about right?

Ramius83 Collaborator

Ramius83

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As always Risking, thanks for your input on this. Now, I do know that you usually mount the oil tank in the boot. My tank is being mounted on the left hand drive passenger side fender well area in front of the wheel. Because of it being close to the pump, will a -12AN return from the pump to the tank suffice? Or regardless, do you recommend a -16AN? And with this not being a heavy road course car, will -10AN scavenges not suffice?

Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted

The reason we use -12 scavengees is to assist with oil airation and pump cavitation. Use -12.

Distance is irrelevant

Your aviad pump would have been supplied with -12 inlets and a -16 outlet. Or everyone I've ever bought has been.

That's usually a good indication Of what the pump manufacturer would like you to use.

  • 3 weeks later...
Ramius83 Collaborator

Ramius83

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And what are you doing with the cam covers and venting? Are you just capping off the valve covers and PCV, completely sealing the engine, then just venting the oil tank?

I have already tapped the oil dipstick hole and installed a barb fitting that I will attach a vacuum regulator to, or just a simple piece of hose with variable size restrictors in it to regulate sump vacuum/pressure.

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted

The common way is to seal up the motor totally apart from a vacuum regulator and then vent the tank to a catch/overflow can with a breather setup on it.

Who is this guy? :P

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
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lol think its time for a chat soon mate! Its been a while!

However I was over in europe for the last month on holidays! Only been back for a few weeks.

Back to the dry sump stuff. The speedway guys typically run filters on the rocker covers to let air. So eitherway will work.

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