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Hey guys,

I will post pictures/scan soon of my dyno graph but all in all, I managed 565whp at 23psi on -5 with poncam Type B and water meth. I was hoping 600whp-ish number.

What I think I should change in the upcoming winter is:

1. Oem intercooler for a jdm intercooler 4 inch ( would I loose response if I do so?)

2. Change my BNR32 maf for Z32 maf or maybe the even bigger Q45 ?

3. Maybe I should consider changing my RS*R front pipe ( 3 inch) to a 3.5 inch and 3.5 inch test pipe but at the end of the piping, I would like to keep my expensive varex exhaust which is 3 inch. ( would I really gain something from going 3 to 3.5 inch?)

Oh and I heard with water-meth you are allowed to run more timing on cam gear right? well we only did 4 degrees on intake and 2 on exhaust. should we have done more cam tuning ?

All in all, I don't believe the extra 35whp will really be felt but breaking the 600whp club is sweet and I feel it can be done lol

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Unfortunately the r32 afms dont have any resolution over around 330kw at the wheels.

Are u in Australia? Not saying u dont have the power just hard to believe.

People around here would kill to have 418kw on -5's as most are sub 350 and some lucky ones are closer to 400kw.

How does it drive?

Unfortunately the r32 afms dont have any resolution over around 330kw at the wheels.

Are u in Australia? Not saying u dont have the power just hard to believe.

People around here would kill to have 418kw on -5's as most are sub 350 and some lucky ones are closer to 400kw.

How does it drive?

got tuned yesterday. its 3 celcius out there. traction is no good so very hard to tell how ir really drive. so far its good but was hoping for a little better kick in the seat. I managed a 11.8 at 121mph yesterday but like I said, traction was very bad, I was slipping so badly and I don't have any slick, just regular sumitomo tires.

I'm in north america, not australia. What you mean no resolution ?

Edited by cobrAA

Unfortunately the r32 afms dont have any resolution over around 330kw at the wheels.

Are u in Australia? Not saying u dont have the power just hard to believe.

People around here would kill to have 418kw on -5's as most are sub 350 and some lucky ones are closer to 400kw.

How does it drive?

He also got 520whp with gt-ss...

Lol at Australian power. We should buy American power instead!

I would say the Dyno is reading inaccurately.

Considering the moroso calculator is American, there isn't really supposed to be American and Australian HP differences, only how dynos are set up and operated can change their output.

That mph suggests you have between 440-460hp at the wheels......

Unless you had 5 people in the car and a few bags of cement in the boot at the time of the run

Nobody read the part where I said it was 3 celcius and I run regular sumitomo and I don,t heat up my tire right?

I go to saus. because I think this is the biggest source of information concerning the skyline but lately, every SINGLE POST I make, I get bashed with stupid useless comment about how australian power is so much better than US reading. how our power is so UNREAL and yours is so realistic. whats the damn f*ck is wrong with you guys ? do australians have an ego problem or something?

I'm here to ask question and learn from others people and within 2 post it turns out into a american dyno number bashing.

BTW, My friend who is a way better driver than I am have stock turbos BNR32 with 340whp and do 12.1 run all the time. same tuner, same dyno. but he has azenis 615.

Our ''local hero'' also have youtube video posted, showing a 9.9 run on -5 and stroked 2.8 managed a 634whp on the same dyno/tuner.

So I will say it again, I'm not a good drag driver. I barely do more than 20 runs a year. it was 3 celcius, tracking was very poor and I run no slick. And I actually had a 160lbs passenger and I'm a true SQ fans so I do have 1 sub + 3 amps + front speaker and 100sq feet of sound deadener in the car, no a/c delete, no weight reduction at all. so yes I'm was propably around 160kg heavier than a regular GTR.

Edited by cobrAA

Nobody read the part where I said it was 3 celcius and I run regular sumitomo and I don,t heat up my tire right?

I go to saus. because I think this is the biggest source of information concerning the skyline but lately, every SINGLE POST I make, I get bashed with stupid useless comment about how australian power is so much better than US reading. how our power is so UNREAL and yours is so realistic. whats the damn f*ck is wrong with you guys ? do australians have an ego problem or something?

I'm here to ask question and learn from others people and within 2 post it turns out into a american dyno number bashing.

BTW, My friend who is a way better driver than I am have stock turbos BNR32 with 340whp and do 12.1 run all the time. same tuner, same dyno. but he has azenis 615.

Our ''local hero'' also have youtube video posted, showing a 9.9 run on -5 and stroked 2.8 managed a 634whp on the same dyno/tuner.

So I will say it again, I'm not a good drag driver. I barely do more than 20 runs a year. it was 3 celcius, tracking was very poor and I run no slick. And I actually had a 160lbs passenger and I'm a true SQ fans so I do have 1 sub + 3 amps + front speaker and 100sq feet of sound deadener in the car, no a/c delete, no weight reduction at all. so yes I'm was propably around 160kg heavier than a regular GTR.

It's wasn't the time that they were referring to really. It was the fact that standard afm in Australia will only allow the sort of power level stated. So comparing them to the US power level gives a greater idea with what you are dealing with.

You asked a question, they are trying to gauge what your circumstances are.

Let's just say our dynos read lower, then the power level you have is very acceptable and you should be happy with the figure.

Edited by jangles

Stock GTR advertised as having 280hp at the flywheel, this would mean 280hp at the flywheel on the entire planet except the US.

In the US a stock GTR would have approx 364hp (hp + inflation of 33%) at the flywheel. The inflation is because it's cold and shit, plus because the dyno sez so.

Not having a go mate but good driver or not, mph is generally always fairly accurate when measuring the horse power in these cars running these sorts of times..even if your rubbish at getting the car off the line and your Time is poor, the mph will still be about the same

The guys above have been around GTRs for a long time and can generally gauge mph/hp fairly well

Also my afms maxed out at around 310rwke as a reference

The mph determines what your actual HP figure is closest to, not your time.

The fact you ran 121mph and your car weighs 3150lbs means 440-460hp. You say you added weight of approx 300-350lbs so the weight of the car is now 3500lbs. This means you have closer to 490-510hp at the wheels.

Your cold weather and shit tyres will have only a small effect on the mph. Go out with slicks on and you might go 1mph faster but you'll do 11.0 instead

I go to saus. because I think this is the biggest source of information concerning the skyline but lately, every SINGLE POST I make, I get bashed with stupid useless comment about how australian power is so much better than US reading. how our power is so UNREAL and yours is so realistic. whats the damn f*ck is wrong with you guys ? do australians have an ego problem or something?

I'm here to ask question and learn from others people and within 2 post it turns out into a american dyno number bashing.

Our ''local hero'' also have youtube video posted, showing a 9.9 run on -5 and stroked 2.8 managed a 634whp on the same dyno/tuner.

1. SAU IS the biggest and best source of information on Skylines in the world.

2. You say you ask a question and want to learn from others. Then listen to what is being said and you will learn from others.

3. 634hp will do a 9.9 in that car. What mph did he run though?

first off all, he's in canada

we measure power is HP, only australia does it in watts (743w=1hp) and japan is PS (.99PS=1hp)

the dyno used is a standard 2wd dynapack (from your neighbours in NZ, so the same gear you use), which uses SAE standards to convert info into HP (so air temp and humidity is irrelevant)

apparently it reads lower than chassis dyno (i.e. mustang dyno) by ~3-5%

we use stock BNR32 MAFs which are mofified by our tuner (Almasi tuning, who tunes most nissans in our area),

its a trick he started doing a couple years ago, the ECU is tuned to read the new values of the MAF accordindly

stock MAF can now be used up to 600whp and more

i know since i got 445whp (330rwkw) with them

now don't give too much attention to the 11,8s @121mph run hes the worst driver i know

with better tires and a good driver, the car is def capable of mid to low 11s

i have only been able to do 12,35@114 myself

but a buddy of ours, with stock turbos (hes been planing to swap them for a year now) does about 300 1/4mile passes on a good summer

with stock turbos, bigger injectors, intake / exhaust, boosting at 14,5-15psi, he made about 350whp (260rkw) on his last tune 2 years ago

the car has a 1-2-3 OS Giken gearset, and the driver is an expert at drag racing (puts ur all to shame really),

on cold october nights, he does passes in 12,0X ~@118mph with a 0-60feet of 1,7s (i do 1,85 with the exact same tires (tyres?))

so there ya go..

Edited by frankiman

thats a 9,74 @141,95 pass, with stock MAFs, with 643rWhp (478 rw kw)

and what kind of fuel do you guys run on?

we 94 or 91 octane gas

i made 445whp (330wkw) with 91 octane on -7s and stock engine

first off all, he's in canada

we measure power is HP, only australia does it in watts (743w=1hp) and japan is PS (.99PS=1hp)

the dyno used is a standard 2wd dynapack, which uses SAE standards to convert info into HP (so air temp and humidity is irrelevant)

apparently it reads lower than chassis dyno (i.e. mustang dyno) by ~3-5%

we use stock BNR32 MAFs which are mofified by our tuner (Almasi tuning, who tunes most nissans in our area),

its a trick he started doing a couple years ago, the ECU is tuned to read the new values of the MAF accordindly

stock MAF can now be used up to 600whp and more

i know since i got 445whp (330rkw) with them

now don't give too much attention to the 11,8s @121mph run hes the worst driver i know

with better tires and a good driver, the car is def capable of mid to low 11s

i have only been able to do 12,35@111 myself

but a buddy of ours, with stock turbos (hes been planing to swap them for a year now) does about 300 1/4mile passes on a good summer

with stock turbos, bigger injectors, intake / exhaust, boosting at 14,5-15psi, he made about 350whp (260rkw) on his last tune 2 years ago

the car has a 1-2-3 OS Giken gearset, and the driver is an expert at drag racing (puts ur all to shame really),

on cold october nights, he does passes in 12,0X ~@118mph with a 0-60feet of 1,7s (i do 1,85 with the exact same tires (tyres?))

so there ya go..

First of all:

Air temp and humidity are ALWAYS relevant. They effect HP so they are very important to consider.

Secondly:

HP is HP, it doesn't matter where in the world you are, only how accurately you measure it and if you don't calculate HP with air temp and humidity involved, your readings are inaccurate. We measure in HP also. We also measure using the metric system of KW but it doesn't matter which reading you take, they are both accurate.

Your buddy actually has 400-420hp at the wheels if its still standard weight

I'll go back to the original post:

1 - Yes, probably (to both parts of the question). You will lose a little bit of response but the total volume of the intake tubing and intercooler is what matters. the stock intercooler does flow well up to a point but you are probably at the point where the stock intercooler is a bit foa restriction. At 4 degree temps it doesn't sound like you need any help with cooling efficiency though.

2 - This is the contentious point about your power levels. What are the voltage readings from the AFMs? In any case they've been modified to have a lower slope (right??). I imagine you'd know if they were out of effective resolution (almost peaked out) - so you must be asking if they are a restriction? There might be some SLIGHT gain in dropping vacuum restriction to the compressor intake by swapping to 80mm Z32 AFMs but I wouldn't bet my house on a significant gain. Plus you've then got potential issues caused by low readings from the dual Z32 at low loads.

3 - I'd swap out the exhaust then do a dyno run. A 3" varex is likely to be noticeably less efficient at those boost and power levels than a 3.5" job. For smallish turbos running big boost the exhaust can make a big difference to their efficiency. Any drop in back pressure is multiplied by the turbine housing. So start here first, it's the easiest swap with the biggest potential gains.

Full disclosure - I've NEVER worked on a GTR but go get a 3.5" exhaust. Like for like, they flow 35% more than 3".

Edited by simpletool

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