Reccomend Me A Oil For A Highish Km Rb25 S1

[Mendoza]

Hi

I have a series1 r33 with 283k on the odometer + whatever was wound off.

Car burns no oil that i can tell, either that or the amount of fuel getting in there keeps it on the dipstick

I'm a bit confused over what weight and type of oil i should be running.

Here's basically how i use the car.

Im in melbourne and summer is coming up

I drive to and from work 10mins each way.

I drive for an hour or so a few times a week, too the city and back.

Previous oil has been some castrol product, either edge or magnatech.

I see that repco has castrol edge titanium for $50 5w-30w, is this a good oil for my application?

[TTT]

I try to stick to 10w-40 but I doubt it will make too much difference.

I think 5w-30 is the OEM recommendation when new.

[Plattsy]

im interested in this too. i used shell semi syn 10-40 before but gave magnatech a go and im getting lowish oil pressure after sitting in traffic for ten mins.

[Mendoza]

Yeah ive noticed my oil pressure has been down a bit on the last change i had, might have been magnatech.

thanks ttt,

might get some turbolite then, thats in the 10-40 range.

Edited October 15, 2012 by Mendoza

[Plattsy]

yea i wont use magnatech again! im only on 230k's but i dont loose any oil either....

ive been trying out a different semi 10-40 every change but if someone can recommend a good cheapish one ill be all over it.

dont see point in using a fully syn, as its old and you dont know whats been in it before!

[TTT]

You're not going off the stock oil pressure gauge are you?

I went to repco yesterday to get my oil.. I bought Gulf Western.

http://www.gulfwestern.com.au/Petrol%20Oil_Syn%20X%203000.html

cost was about $25

new oil filter

Also bought 1L of auto trans fluid to use as engine oil flush.

[Mendoza]

yeah im going off the stock gauge, i know it's probably not accurate, but it does show changes with new or different oils.

How's that oil been? i really like the price.

[Plattsy]

yea be interested to know how that goes.....

[TTT]

Stock gauges are not to be trusted. that change in oils is probably more the gauge doing its own retarded thing.

I haven't used the oil yet.

Couple of people on here have..

[Moodles2]

5w30 is way too thin. Any RB you want 5w40 or 10w40 minimum. If it is burning any oil (and how many KM it has done), then 10w50 or even 10w60

[Plattsy]

yea i know tript, but on the shell my guage behaved normally.... magnatec.... f**k knows what its playing at. its all good while im driving. then ill hit the traffic at cranbourne on the westo, sit there for ten minutes then when im up too 100k's again my pressure is half what it was before!

[GTR-N1]

I'd agree with Lance > Elf Excellium SM 10W-50 would be what I'd use with those Kms.

Full Syn.

[Carbon 34]

I'd agree with Lance > Elf Excellium SM 10W-50 would be what I'd use with those Kms.

Full Syn.

My old r31 is still unopened engine at 786,000km and borescope down the sparkplugs still shows factory machine marks in spots ? Doesnt smoke or leak oil either ? Never uses any?

Redline oil for the win 20-50w for summer 10-40w winter in cold areas

The first number is pour rate at freezing temps , australia you dont need 5 or 10 w if you run synthetic oil , it pours well below freezing

Mineral oil is like mud below freezing even in 5w

The r31 uses 20-50 because it stays on the bearings better and lifters dont bleed down

On my 34 you notice right away changing from name brand synthetic to redline , it runs much smoother and idles faster by 50-100rpm

ive used about every brand over the years in various cars and always come back to redline

Second option for cheaper mobil 1 20-50 synthetic

Heard joe gibbs oil is awesome ( best) but havent tried it , super rare and from usa as well

Your car will run cooler by a bit as well on extreme days

[FordyR31]

Digging up old thread to avoid the did you search and this has been covered before replies.

I have a S2 RB25DET with unknown km, was sold to me as a reco'd motor by the seller who seemed pretty legit but no receipts or anything, did show lots of photo's of parts inspections but yeah. So it's standard interally, bolt ons making 230ish rwkw. I am about to do a track day and have done some reserch on the Nulon oils. I used to use Motul Turbolight (approx 7 years ago for 2 years) but haven't seen it anywhere since I movd back to Sydney so I switched to Nulon street and track 10W 50 whichis what i have been using since. After looking at the Nulon site its suggesting for turbo cars and tack driving the probably more expensive "extreme" 10W 60. It's $70 per 5L bottle in places. Basically after this track day I have some mods happening so it's getting a service before and after the track day. Worth it? Any good? Should I just use the normal factory specified oil? Any suggestions? I don't know what the factory spec oil is.

Edited April 13, 2014 by FordyR31

[niZmO_Man]

Street and Track is 15W50. It'll be fine, just dump it after the track day.

[KrazyTurk]

i use a semi synthetic 20/50 for mine

[KiwiRS4T]

Use a synthetic oil for track use -gives you a good margin of safety if things get hot. I use Motul 300V Chrono 10W 40

[Humbla]

Nulon 1040 I do 30000 plus a year,no sticky or clangy noises on start up and purrs like a kitten. :-)

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

I use 10W40 Penrith 10 Tenths and beat the shit out of my car on track days.

Motor has about 300 000km on it if you factor in all the odo rewinds from previous owners, Edward Lee's etc

[XGTRX]

I use 10W40 Penrith 10 Tenths and beat the shit out of my car on track days.

Motor has about 300 000km on it if you factor in all the odo rewinds from previous owners, Edward Lee's etc

Or penrite 15W50 either/or doesnt matter, just dump it after with a filter as suggested