Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

I have an Apexi Djetro (in before the cries of get a Haltec/Motec/Paltronic :)) on a RB26 and have been monitoring the Air Temp for a while via the hand controller.

As the standard RB ran AFM do they also have an Air Temp sensors? Or is this been added when the Apexi was fitted?

I think it may be this sensor in the front of the plenum?

IMG_0835_zpsb2d948a3.jpg

I have noticed that the Air Temp does not vary wildly it stays around 45 deg when moving along. When standing it reaches 50 deg and then take 10 mins to creep back down to 45 or so. If the ambient changes 15 deg then there is no effect still 45 deg. It has a largish HKS intercooler as well as a couple of R34 N1's running 15psi so they are working hardish with all standard 32GTR piping and plenum in place.

This leads me to a few posibilities I am hoping someone can answer;

1) The Air Temp sensor installation is wrong and I am measuring plenum temperature? I need to correct this with either a different sensor or different installation?

2) The Air Temp sensor installation is right and the air temps recorded are correct? Perhaps then the RB is a candidate for a phenolic spacer between plenum and head?

I am a newbie with these engines.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411652-rb26-air-temp/
Share on other sites

The airtemp sensor on the GTR plenum is standard.

The issue with it is the sensor gets heatsoaked from being directly mounted to the engine via the plenum.

Best to move it to either the cold side of the intercooler core or the cooler piping after the cooler to get accurate results

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411652-rb26-air-temp/#findComment-6581122
Share on other sites

Only a couple of Nissan engines of that vintage even use IAT sensors. That's pretty much the SR20 and the RB26. The rest could have benefited from them to provide better ignition timing adjustment with temperature, which would have provided better power in cold weather (or more to the point, they could have had less conservative ignition timing and still been safe when the IAT went hot). But because they all did run AFMs, they didn't need to measure IAT in order to calculate engine load, so they cheaped out on most engines.

I strongly suspect that the IAT sensor on RB26s does little more than nothing at all. There is precious little difference between an RB20 ECU and an RB26 ECU, and precious little difference in the way the calculations are done inside. Add the fact that the IAT sensor tends to stabilise at the plenum alloy temperature, and, well, you can see what I mean.

cheers

--edit -- correction. I accidentally typed RB20 in the 2nd sentence when I meant RB26.

Edited by GTSBoy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411652-rb26-air-temp/#findComment-6581205
Share on other sites

Agree, don't think it does too much until engine temp gets high.

Stock Datalogit numbers I think?

IGN V's IAT shows 0 correction at 50 degrees down to -5 correction at 70 degrees.

INJ V's IAT shows 100% at 40 degrees, 112% at 70 degrees and 120% at 100 degrees.

And the probe is always heat soaked, never seen mine less than 50 when running which is in the vicinity of the zero and 100% spots.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411652-rb26-air-temp/#findComment-6581241
Share on other sites

That stock sensor is really slow, inb4 haltec/motec/paltronic well... those computers can all be fitted with any modern sensor which respond much faster. So if you relocate this sensor to a less heat soaked position will it be fast enough to tune with?

Edited by linkems
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411652-rb26-air-temp/#findComment-6581254
Share on other sites

Thanks for the responses so far... a wealth of knowledge.

Unless I am missing something, there is no accessable trim tables for air temp correction via the hand controller. I assume they are embedded into the algorthm for final ignition and final fuel pulse within the unit and setup from Apexi?

The airtemp sensor on the GTR plenum is standard.

The issue with it is the sensor gets heatsoaked from being directly mounted to the engine via the plenum.

Best to move it to either the cold side of the intercooler core or the cooler piping after the cooler to get accurate results

Does simply moving the standard sensor make the whole system run better (i.e. correct fuel/ignition for a given air temp?).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411652-rb26-air-temp/#findComment-6581281
Share on other sites

If memory serves me correctly in the late 80s era competition teams were finding that prolonged use off high speed and boost were causing lean outs which could damage pistons etc . I think it was Murray Coote that burnt a Familiar rally engine on some event that included long stages of full speed full load running . You would expect that everything could become heat soaked particularly in hot weather and a slow reacting temperature probe could make a difference . Its hard to imagine it doing much in a road car here driven at legal speeds .

A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411652-rb26-air-temp/#findComment-6582734
Share on other sites

If memory serves me correctly in the late 80s era competition teams were finding that prolonged use off high speed and boost were causing lean outs which could damage pistons etc . I think it was Murray Coote that burnt a Familiar rally engine on some event that included long stages of full speed full load running . You would expect that everything could become heat soaked particularly in hot weather and a slow reacting temperature probe could make a difference . Its hard to imagine it doing much in a road car here driven at legal speeds .

A .

Looking at my other car ecu calibration... the fuel multiplier for two different air temp breakpoints 40deg to 20deg are 1 : 1.023.... or in other words 2.3% difference in fuel - lets say we aimed for 12:1 at a particular point in the map then 2.3% difference is 12.27:1 - I know it may not look like much difference but it is.

Looks like datalogit is the go - and now to find an Air Temp sensor!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411652-rb26-air-temp/#findComment-6582865
Share on other sites

the air temp sensor and water temp sensor are the same part number, its the same part and you can use either

leave the sensor where it is and leave the ecu do its job - back out timing when intake temp is excessive

dont forget you are measuring air after the compressor wheels and after the intercooler so 45deg is pretty good

imagine the air temp at the compressor wheel outlets? its probably double that so 45deg is fine

there is nothing wrong and nothing to fix. dont move the sensor

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411652-rb26-air-temp/#findComment-6583757
Share on other sites

Thanks for the responses so far... a wealth of knowledge.

Unless I am missing something, there is no accessable trim tables for air temp correction via the hand controller. I assume they are embedded into the algorthm for final ignition and final fuel pulse within the unit and setup from Apexi?

Does simply moving the standard sensor make the whole system run better (i.e. correct fuel/ignition for a given air temp?).

it works perfectly well, there are good trim tables for fuel and air via AIT too... there is a very good reason Nissan used slow reaction sensors.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411652-rb26-air-temp/#findComment-6586600
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

After stumbling across this thread I remembered to post up an rb26 air temp sensor upgrade for the power fc I did a while back.

Here's the link: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/412248-rb26-air-temp-sensor-upgrade-for-power-fc/

Hope it helps some people out,

Dave.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411652-rb26-air-temp/#findComment-6594329
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It can't be some stupidly proprietary video signal coming out of it that only Nissan's can understand. Surely you can just find some generic camera to stuff in there and use hot melt glue/blu-tac/gaffer tape to hold it in place if need be?
    • Update: Tunehouse looked into the problem and identified a wiring issue between the camera unit and the connector. They managed to get it working , but did warn me at some point it will stop working again. From their perspective it is unserviceable and will need replacement. They did some research and found that the new replacement camera would be Approx $1400 supply only (their fitting cost would be $190) . They did provide the part number (28442-JL05B) and a quick google of the part number shows that these are rather expensive brand new (seemingly no longer in manufacture) for the places that still have them in stock, with the used option potentially presenting  the same issue down the track at some unknown point. They are happy for me to supply the part so that they can fit it. Decisions, decisions... I can definitely recommend Tunehouse (thankyou Vee37!). Cost for the diagnosis was as quoted  ($190) , car was ready on time and communication was top notch. Their workshop is super clean and modern, and there was plenty of car candy parked out the front on the day I went.   Would definitely go back.   
    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
×
×
  • Create New...