Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

I have an Apexi Djetro (in before the cries of get a Haltec/Motec/Paltronic :)) on a RB26 and have been monitoring the Air Temp for a while via the hand controller.

As the standard RB ran AFM do they also have an Air Temp sensors? Or is this been added when the Apexi was fitted?

I think it may be this sensor in the front of the plenum?

IMG_0835_zpsb2d948a3.jpg

I have noticed that the Air Temp does not vary wildly it stays around 45 deg when moving along. When standing it reaches 50 deg and then take 10 mins to creep back down to 45 or so. If the ambient changes 15 deg then there is no effect still 45 deg. It has a largish HKS intercooler as well as a couple of R34 N1's running 15psi so they are working hardish with all standard 32GTR piping and plenum in place.

This leads me to a few posibilities I am hoping someone can answer;

1) The Air Temp sensor installation is wrong and I am measuring plenum temperature? I need to correct this with either a different sensor or different installation?

2) The Air Temp sensor installation is right and the air temps recorded are correct? Perhaps then the RB is a candidate for a phenolic spacer between plenum and head?

I am a newbie with these engines.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411652-rb26-air-temp/
Share on other sites

The airtemp sensor on the GTR plenum is standard.

The issue with it is the sensor gets heatsoaked from being directly mounted to the engine via the plenum.

Best to move it to either the cold side of the intercooler core or the cooler piping after the cooler to get accurate results

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411652-rb26-air-temp/#findComment-6581122
Share on other sites

Only a couple of Nissan engines of that vintage even use IAT sensors. That's pretty much the SR20 and the RB26. The rest could have benefited from them to provide better ignition timing adjustment with temperature, which would have provided better power in cold weather (or more to the point, they could have had less conservative ignition timing and still been safe when the IAT went hot). But because they all did run AFMs, they didn't need to measure IAT in order to calculate engine load, so they cheaped out on most engines.

I strongly suspect that the IAT sensor on RB26s does little more than nothing at all. There is precious little difference between an RB20 ECU and an RB26 ECU, and precious little difference in the way the calculations are done inside. Add the fact that the IAT sensor tends to stabilise at the plenum alloy temperature, and, well, you can see what I mean.

cheers

--edit -- correction. I accidentally typed RB20 in the 2nd sentence when I meant RB26.

Edited by GTSBoy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411652-rb26-air-temp/#findComment-6581205
Share on other sites

Agree, don't think it does too much until engine temp gets high.

Stock Datalogit numbers I think?

IGN V's IAT shows 0 correction at 50 degrees down to -5 correction at 70 degrees.

INJ V's IAT shows 100% at 40 degrees, 112% at 70 degrees and 120% at 100 degrees.

And the probe is always heat soaked, never seen mine less than 50 when running which is in the vicinity of the zero and 100% spots.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411652-rb26-air-temp/#findComment-6581241
Share on other sites

That stock sensor is really slow, inb4 haltec/motec/paltronic well... those computers can all be fitted with any modern sensor which respond much faster. So if you relocate this sensor to a less heat soaked position will it be fast enough to tune with?

Edited by linkems
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411652-rb26-air-temp/#findComment-6581254
Share on other sites

Thanks for the responses so far... a wealth of knowledge.

Unless I am missing something, there is no accessable trim tables for air temp correction via the hand controller. I assume they are embedded into the algorthm for final ignition and final fuel pulse within the unit and setup from Apexi?

The airtemp sensor on the GTR plenum is standard.

The issue with it is the sensor gets heatsoaked from being directly mounted to the engine via the plenum.

Best to move it to either the cold side of the intercooler core or the cooler piping after the cooler to get accurate results

Does simply moving the standard sensor make the whole system run better (i.e. correct fuel/ignition for a given air temp?).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411652-rb26-air-temp/#findComment-6581281
Share on other sites

If memory serves me correctly in the late 80s era competition teams were finding that prolonged use off high speed and boost were causing lean outs which could damage pistons etc . I think it was Murray Coote that burnt a Familiar rally engine on some event that included long stages of full speed full load running . You would expect that everything could become heat soaked particularly in hot weather and a slow reacting temperature probe could make a difference . Its hard to imagine it doing much in a road car here driven at legal speeds .

A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411652-rb26-air-temp/#findComment-6582734
Share on other sites

If memory serves me correctly in the late 80s era competition teams were finding that prolonged use off high speed and boost were causing lean outs which could damage pistons etc . I think it was Murray Coote that burnt a Familiar rally engine on some event that included long stages of full speed full load running . You would expect that everything could become heat soaked particularly in hot weather and a slow reacting temperature probe could make a difference . Its hard to imagine it doing much in a road car here driven at legal speeds .

A .

Looking at my other car ecu calibration... the fuel multiplier for two different air temp breakpoints 40deg to 20deg are 1 : 1.023.... or in other words 2.3% difference in fuel - lets say we aimed for 12:1 at a particular point in the map then 2.3% difference is 12.27:1 - I know it may not look like much difference but it is.

Looks like datalogit is the go - and now to find an Air Temp sensor!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411652-rb26-air-temp/#findComment-6582865
Share on other sites

the air temp sensor and water temp sensor are the same part number, its the same part and you can use either

leave the sensor where it is and leave the ecu do its job - back out timing when intake temp is excessive

dont forget you are measuring air after the compressor wheels and after the intercooler so 45deg is pretty good

imagine the air temp at the compressor wheel outlets? its probably double that so 45deg is fine

there is nothing wrong and nothing to fix. dont move the sensor

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411652-rb26-air-temp/#findComment-6583757
Share on other sites

Thanks for the responses so far... a wealth of knowledge.

Unless I am missing something, there is no accessable trim tables for air temp correction via the hand controller. I assume they are embedded into the algorthm for final ignition and final fuel pulse within the unit and setup from Apexi?

Does simply moving the standard sensor make the whole system run better (i.e. correct fuel/ignition for a given air temp?).

it works perfectly well, there are good trim tables for fuel and air via AIT too... there is a very good reason Nissan used slow reaction sensors.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411652-rb26-air-temp/#findComment-6586600
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

After stumbling across this thread I remembered to post up an rb26 air temp sensor upgrade for the power fc I did a while back.

Here's the link: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/412248-rb26-air-temp-sensor-upgrade-for-power-fc/

Hope it helps some people out,

Dave.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411652-rb26-air-temp/#findComment-6594329
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just got this system but haven’t installed yet I got a Moroso sealed box (defect reasons) which will be set up same as their pic The quality is high grade, the correspondence I had with the owner (former head designer for Rockford Fosgate) was unbelievable, guiding me with what I needed. Even told me not to buy some things as it could be sorted in a different way at his loss. Just a bit of a bite with the exchange rate and don’t purchase gear in 1 hit that goes over $1,000 au, lol I forgot!  
    • Thanks mate for that reply. Very helpful.    it’s a 2022 400R so would most likely lose those features as you say.     I did a quick compare of a rv37 nav and heading for sale in Japan to q50 model. I’ll pop pics below. Seems  Japan spec head into top, nav unit second below it   below pic Q50 aud delivered     differences seem to be Aus delivered has a different plug top left hand side of head unit- not sure what and where it goes.   and nav unit Japanese tv37 had an extra plug put    Again I’m really not sure what each of these differences mean!       the actual plugs on a v37 and q50 screens look identical on both screens… pics below for comparing. (One screen was is a us delivered one) but should be same gps signals etc as Australia.    If it were as simple as swapping a nav unit from q50 aud delivered im interested -just want to figure out what the missing plug is for before spending big $ on a second hand part for it to not work, and I guess with the head unit, if the band expander does the job (I got a 20mHz so should get the range I’m after) so should narrow my issue down to nav unit only.  I’d love to know what the extra cable on rv37 does and if I eliminate that part what it’ll do to the setup,    and also, if I can figure out what that head unit plug difference is, what does that cable do and where does it got can it be altered or re-plugged?! Excuse my ignorance what is ACP/AA, what does that stand for? (Apple car play? Android air play)? so If I swapped head units to save using a band expander, I’d likely lose those better features to have an oem Unit operational. Better to use a band expander and retain AirPlay options and newer version of head unit     provably best to band expand it, and focus on the nav unit. th isn’t  a big deal/ would be cool to have it working  from what I can tel we use a PAL Signal and Japan uses a NTSC signal  I don’t know if there’s a co better or if the screen only reads NTSC, or if it’s the tv module that needs replacing… no big deal don’t need it but more of a curiosity thing on that!   Thanks for the info re tyre sensors, helpful and great to know.  I was reading the online manual off Japan website and it seemed to make it sound more confusing than it is  I guess a rim replacement would require the sensors to be moved to a new rim to carry that option over?!     Thanks for the info regarding diagnostic mode. I appreciate your help mate. Trying to brainstorm here to find a solution to get as much gadgets as I can working! I plan to get my local Nissan tech to have a look too who used to be at an Infiniti dealer back in the day to see if any thing they have or idea can find a soliton. But hoping anyone here has gone down the same route to make life easier!!   i guess identifying the cable/plug differences and what they do would be a great way of finding out if the units are transferable    thanks again 
    • No idea about the remote start part. If the V37 nav is anything like other Nissan JDM vehicles, you can't get the factory Japanese nav working in australia, a card from a different car almost certainly won't work, those cards are usually matched to the serial number of the DCU.  You could be possibly swap out the components from a AuDM Q50 to get it working, but if this is a new model (2021+) 400R, then you will lose the newer features like ACP/AA.  That said, if you have ACP/AA, just use google maps.. I assume a band expander would be required to get the local radio stations, but don't forget the Japanese FM band is narrower than ours, so you still might not be able to receive all Australian stations. I can't see any reason the tyre pressure sensors won't work here, there is the sensor unit inside the rim and the receiver nearby in the wheel well.  I have never had to change the batteries on my 2015 Q50, so I assume they last quite a while.  A straight battery change shouldn't need them to be re-registered as they are the same unit, that should only be required if you replace a sensor with a new one.   Word of warning, if you ever go into the 'secret' diagnostics mode on the main screen, DO NOT EVER do a 'reset' in this menu, it will erase all of your model specific data in the DCU and you will need a trip to a dealer to re-program it all, which would be particularly painful being an import.  This applies to the AuDM Q50 too.
    • There is a known issue with the mix door motor on the Q50 which causes these symptoms, not sure if it is common on the Y51 though.
    • That ring thing is interesting how it's holding everything together 
×
×
  • Create New...