Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Recently purchased some second hand Ganador Mirrors. They are currently silver and my car is pearl pink white.

Since matching my car is difficult, I'll most likely paint them black as wrapping them in carbon turned out to be too expensive.

I searched around online for a guide to disassemble the mirrors but there was nothing, just other people asking.

So I disassembled one and then took photos for the second one as a guide for myself to put back together and might as well put a guide up for others.

Tools:

Pointy tip pliers

Phillips head screw driver

Flat head screw driver

7mm spanner

Guide:

1. Temporarily fit the power connector to your door and adjust the mirror lens horizontally inwards until it can't anymore. The lens is on a pivotal ball with two rubber screws that are threaded into the motors. This way the rubber screw is completely out of one socket. Then carefully seperate the lens from the pivot ball (be gentle as the other screw is still threaded and are very weak). Once it has popped off, adjust the mirror upwards (iirc) to get the lens completely detached.

This is the lens detached (after I decided to take photos of the process)

14603C2D-4E1E-4ED2-908E-1DE92297538A-18328-000007DE79F8385C.jpg

2. You can do the following steps unplugged from the car.

Behind the lens is the motor held onto a backing plate by 4 screws. 3 of which are easily enough to screw out but the 4th has a nut behind it which you can't get to just yet.

439F6DD1-F030-4E4B-94EB-7518AFB4077C-18328-000007DE9CA59C20.jpg

3F7877C8-E5DA-4299-BA81-C9C7A62F19B5-18328-000007DEA10D4BB3.jpg

3. Remove the 2 screws holding the backing plate to the housing.

A50E8D2D-3668-4B0B-8049-2F378951F89F-18328-000007DEA6A60770.jpg

4. Pull the whole part out, it should come out with a bit of force as the spring is holding it in, so just move it until it holds itself ajar.

32254EC1-EB41-4B31-B34E-DECFD1B04322-18328-000007DEAA951925.jpg

5. Here you'll be able to see the 7mm nut, use the spanner to hold it and close the gap a bit until you can use your screw driver on the outside.

The motor should come off the backing plate now.

40898F93-9384-45D7-A4B8-6E1EE829A0A0-18328-000007DEADF4251E.jpg

BBA83F9E-7D59-42CA-8359-5D7DFA076783-18328-000007DEB193B887.jpg

6. Now that the plate is by itself, the only things holding it there are the two springs which are hooked onto holes.

Push the plate back in and try to get the plate back out from the opposite end (opposite to where it is hooked) this will remove the resistance from the springs. Then just unhook the two springs from the plate.

EAD43AC2-6DCB-405F-A456-36F262CA3C6F-18328-000007DEB571E949.jpg

D717EC60-216C-4920-BCA1-6FA2A414ECDD-18328-000007DEB9AFDFEF.jpg

26B10783-8455-489F-B3C3-C854566A0EA1-18328-000007DEBDE6F23C.jpg

7. The housing can be separated partially now.

486FF376-A50E-4947-95A9-1EDBDA0C579A-18328-000007DEC173C9EE.jpg

8. The parts of the housing aren't actually attached anymore but the motor power cable is threaded through and bolted down on the adapter plate(?). Undo the screw (on the left) that is on the casing not the one on the circuit board. The circuit board holder will now come off.

B998604B-C02F-4C0C-B3CE-A3F12C749CFB-18328-000007DEC60DE19B.jpg

9. Thread the holder through the whole where the wires are. Your Ganadors will be two parts now.

CE0D5238-FD5A-49F8-A908-E1A46FBF3571-18328-000007DECAB70D9F.jpg

10. Now I didn't test if the bracket would fit through the hole of the lens holder but I didn't want to chance the squeeze and just undid the screw.

After you undo the screw, you'll have to carefully pry the circuit board off the bracket (its stuck).

5A6F6DAF-EC99-4FC6-BBF5-203062424140-18328-000007DECF73B1B0.jpg

2CE6440F-E806-432A-BD31-8AFECE3FC946-18328-000007DED354D08E.jpg

11. Thread that through the hole and pull the motor out and.......

B03CEE62-D626-44C5-8A58-65262A64BE3A-18328-000007DED8A739C3.jpg

12. You're done. Ganador Mirror into pieces.

D1204936-6715-4BBB-B751-F09A04E59798-18328-000007DEDDFF6251.jpg

Obviously probably could be worded better and done another way but yeah, this is what I did.

Hopefully it'll help someone out there.

Cheers

Simon

  • Like 1

Actually did this today to my eastbear mirrors but stripped the motor down too, which looks almost exactly the same just need to undo that 7mm nut and then the two sides come apart which has two little motors in it, so if they ever crap out jaycar or any place like that stock them, pretty common.

Small-DC-Electric-Motors-OT-FA-130-.jpg

Good to know mate. Thanks.

Just a few words if you're painting them.

I figured they were too small a thing to pay someone else to paint.

So I sanded and sprayed a few coats and a clear.

Make sure you put them together before your last few coats.

I knew it would be a pain to put back together and would scratch the paint, so I did it half way through then painted one or two more layers and then then the clear.

Mission and a half. But all done.

Good luck to anyone else who may try :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok, so first round of maintenance done. I didn't get much history with the car but I know it was well looked after. That isn't enough for me though, so ...  I had to do the oil filter housing gasket. It was leaking a lot, and also as part of that I did the anti-return valve and the VANOS oil line (from HEL).  But, then I got hit with the while-ya-in-there's. Did both accessory and A/C belts, tensioners and pulley. The accessory belt that came off had a huge hole in it, like somebody hung it up with a nail. The pulley and tensioners seem ok, so I'll keep those just in case. I did water pump and pump pulley. The water pump had a small bit of play so timing was good.  I also did fan clutch. I don't know how to test the old one but between the water pump and the fan clutch the car is running a little bit cooler (not much ~2 - 3 degrees maybe) so good result. Unfortunately the thermostat and housing didn't turn up in time so I'll shelve those. I have no concerns at all on the current ones.  Then I spent what seemed like 40 days and 40 nights bleeding the air from the cooling system. She also got new air filter, fuel filter and did a Mobil 1 change with oil filter. Hilariously, not an hour after telling my wife how proud I was of myself to be going slowly and meticulously and making sure everything was torqued and nothing missing I went and started it without the oil filter in. The car complained immediately of no pressure and after only a few seconds I turned it off and discovered a shit tonne of oil on the driveway. Sigh. I've driven it since and thankfully doesn't seem to be any problems. AND THEN during the test drive a ratchet extension fell into the battery area in the boot and JAMMED right next to the positive terminal and the car body. Like, just touching it made sparks and it was jammed in there. So, almost killed the engine and then almost burned the car to a crisp. Good start. This was the rails under the splash guards. So stoked, she's straight as and super clean. No rust anywhere. There was a heap of caked dirt that I removed but otherwise looked great. All 4 jacking points are perfect.   Next I want to service the gearbox. Sometimes it's a little reluctant to shift up and I'm hoping a fluid change will sort it. I also have 4 new rear subframe bushes. They're as big as a toddler. I'm renting a tool to help put them in. I can't wait for this because its a bit crashy back there at the moment.  
    • Remember when those donkeys kept using freedom units and smashed that satellite to bits on the moon? NASA has their brain switched on and uses the metric system.
    • Don't use "gasless MIG" (FCAW) you want to use proper MIG. FCAW burns a few hundred degrees hotter than MIG will for mild steel. It is a true ball ache for sheet metal. New MIG / TIG machines even have features like "Spot Weld" as well as "Automatic" settings. Plenty of people say for DIY home hobby, the auto machines are pretty good for 95% of welding. I personally, I'm a sucker for punishment and wanting to dial it in, and be able to adjust the machine. Mainly because I used to MIG weld for a living, and being able to tweak and tune things ever so slightly was my preference. Hence when I bought my ACDC TIG, it has all the adjustments for everything and no "easy" mode. Ha ha I have stick, MIG, "gaslessMIG" and ACDC TIG at home. Out of them, if you're doing mild steel sheet metal repair, and want to do mild steel exhausts, go MIG. If you're thinking you'll want to get into doing some aluminium stuff, or stainless steel, get an ACDC TIG with HF start. If you can, get one with a foot pedal too. My MIG machine is a UniMIG, and my Stick/TIG is CigWeld. If I were buying another machine, I'd buy another CIGWeld. Lots of people having issues with UniMIG, and them not wanting to cover warranty. Everything has to go back to UNIMig themselves. CIGWeld, I've had to use their warranty on my machine for a gas leak, they have repair centres everywhere, (contracted authorised repair centres). First repair place I used were hopeless, but the second place were amazing. Warranty process itself super easy, and second repair place was telling me CigWeld actually cover in their warranty, upto an hour of techs time to help you with your machine, and going through the settings and helping teach you the machine. UniMIG keep trying to get out of replacing motherboards on 12 month old machines.   TLDR, mild steel sheet welding, buy a MIG. my vote is CigWeld for brand.
    • I guess that's what happens when someone can't convert metric to freedom units to machine something. 😛
    • I've watched some vids and the technique seems to be to butt the sheets up to one another and use MIG to spot weld and slowly fill in the spots until its eventually all sealed. No runs as you would normally do, as there's too much heat generated that way. Yeah my stick welds are terrible these days because its been so long since i've done any of it. I expect to be spending many hours practicing
×
×
  • Create New...