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A stock turbo has the benefits of.... failure of the ceramic wheel and ceramic dust taking out an engine.

If the OP was driving a stock RB26 with twins yeah I would consider what you are saying as a real risk.

Since we are talking RB25 then you are massively overstating the risk. Ceramic turbine dust doesn't seem to revert up the runners of the 25's unlike the 26's.

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My hi-flow done by gcg had next to no response difference to stock.

Depends who does it and to what spec

Gcg want just under 2 grand. I've heard that they are the best, but that kind of money is a bit excessive.

From what's been said, I'm just gonna clean the intake out and eliminate blow by as an oil source and see if the oil comes back. P.s, its not a "bit of oil" theres pools sitting in parts of the intake. Whether that is just cause the intake has never came off to be cleaned.

Gcg want just under 2 grand. I've heard that they are the best, but that kind of money is a bit excessive.

Mine was rebuilt 4 yrs ago for 1750 and did 11000km before being pulled off. It's sealed up with fresh oil waiting for me to get around to selling it for 800 or so

thats alot of money for a highflow turbo isnt it??

would you be better off buying a garrett core like a 3071/76 and have your housing machined, bolts up and your have a quality core with steel wheels, later can just get the proper exhaust housing if you want more power.. probably be done for under $1400 , bolt it up and run 6psi..

and you'll be on full boost by about 2500rpm

Edited by SliverS2

Mine was rebuilt 4 yrs ago for 1750 and did 11000km before being pulled off. It's sealed up with fresh oil waiting for me to get around to selling it for 800 or so

Actuator set for stock boost? If your thinking of selling it I'll take it... Like... now. =)

thats alot of money for a highflow turbo isnt it??

would you be better off buying a garrett core like a 3071/76 and have your housing machined, bolts up and your have a quality core with steel wheels, later can just get the proper exhaust housing if you want more power.. probably be done for under $1400 , bolt it up and run 6psi..

and you'll be on full boost by about 2500rpm

Or I could get Hypergear to do it for just under $1000 including oil lines. And that's exactly what they do. Re core it, machine the housing and put new seals in it.

Actuator set for stock boost? If your thinking of selling it I'll take it... Like... now. =)

Yeah 7psi from memory.

Ill sell it if your keen but I still doubt anything is wrong with your current one. I'd stick with it til it dies. Up to you

  • 1 month later...

If u do get a highflowed turbo as the boys are suggesting the ecu will need to be upgraded,

So it all depends on what ur plans are for the car on whether u should upgrade the turbo and ecu etc.

As was said already the oil may be from the rocker cover breathers rather than the turbo seals themselves.

I recommend cleaning all the piping and installing a catch can in between the rocker cover breathers and the turbo intake pipe, this will stop nearly all of the oil buildup.

By all means tho if u wish to upgrade the turbo u should but within a few thousand km's theres a good chance the oil buildup will return to the intake

Um this is absolutely NOT true!!! Sorry about being frank but I had GCG high-flow my standard turbo (I have an R33gts-t series 2) They rebuilt with new inducer and exhaust wheels (steel wheels) and it turned out better than factory. Since having the turbo I have still used the stock ecu and recirculating blow off valve, stock injectors, etc. I have had it on the car for exactly 38,000kms and have not had a problem. I even added a GFB bleed valve and gone to 11 psi with no problem and still within great air/fuel ratios. Sorry but if you're going to give out information make sure it is correct.

^^dyno printout please

Also interested.

I KNOW what the stock ignition and fuel maps look like. If it's not retarding the timing and dumping in fuel then there one of these is false:

1 - 11psi on highflow turbo

2 - stock ECU

OR.............. I'm about to learn something. Getting pretty excited about the prospect.

Edited by simpletool
  • 3 months later...

LOL at this guy saying Jez has no idea. Take a look at his work mate. And if you think about the whole increase in boost thing. Jez is stating that for the "best results" you will require a tune/ecu upgrade. I can guarantee you that if i get a tune at 12psi and you run your turbo at 12psi that i will make 5% more power at the wheels at least.

So, his information is correct, it's just some people don't feel the need to go to the effort to get it right.

Gcg want just under 2 grand. I've heard that they are the best, but that kind of money is a bit excessive.

Or I could get Hypergear to do it for just under $1000 including oil lines. And that's exactly what they do. Re core it, machine the housing and put new seals in it.

The difference between GCG and Hypergear is that GCG rebuild the turbo with a new ball bearing cartridge. This is the expensive part. Hypergear put a bush bearing in, and they are half the price. Hypergear can do a BB centre on request but it ends up being 2 grand just like GCG. Not worth it in my opinion, and many others will agree as Hypergear gets rave reviews and is doing a lot of development on turbos as evidenced by the large thread on the subject!!

Um this is absolutely NOT true!!! Sorry about being frank but I had GCG high-flow my standard turbo (I have an R33gts-t series 2) They rebuilt with new inducer and exhaust wheels (steel wheels) and it turned out better than factory. Since having the turbo I have still used the stock ecu and recirculating blow off valve, stock injectors, etc. I have had it on the car for exactly 38,000kms and have not had a problem. I even added a GFB bleed valve and gone to 11 psi with no problem and still within great air/fuel ratios. Sorry but if you're going to give out information make sure it is correct.

ROFL. R33's are very sensitive to airflow as Jez said. It takes very little to push them into R&R in standard form, so unless your ECU has been remapped without your knowledge there is no way you are flowing more air and not hitting R&R.

The difference between GCG and Hypergear is that GCG rebuild the turbo with a new ball bearing cartridge. This is the expensive part. Hypergear put a bush bearing in, and they are half the price. Hypergear can do a BB centre on request but it ends up being 2 grand just like GCG. Not worth it in my opinion, and many others will agree as Hypergear gets rave reviews and is doing a lot of development on turbos as evidenced by the large thread on the subject!!

Hypergear actually charges $200 more for a dual ceramic ball bearing core. Just PM him for a price and I think a fully tricked out turbo will be at least $500 cheaper.

hypergear are shit hot. stao hiflowed me a stock 2iu. 172rwkw thru an auto at 5200 rpm @ 11.5psi. maxed out my afm.

believe me a high flow may run on a standard ecu but it will be shit and going in to knock map. i thought mine was great. my dyno result was 110kw at the wheels.

one greddy emange blue and a tune later and bam car is amazing. would of hit 220ish with emanage map sensor.

The difference between GCG and Hypergear is that GCG rebuild the turbo with a new ball bearing cartridge. This is the expensive part. Hypergear put a bush bearing in, and they are half the price. Hypergear can do a BB centre on request but it ends up being 2 grand just like GCG. Not worth it in my opinion, and many others will agree as Hypergear gets rave reviews and is doing a lot of development on turbos as evidenced by the large thread on the subject!!

There is no real advantage of getting a more expansive ball bearing high flow, when hypergear's bush bearing high flow makes more power, better response and half the cost. He's thread contains heaps of people making good power and has helped many people sorting out their own problems plus their latest developments are amazing.

I've seen what happens if even a tiny piece of ceramic makes its way into your intake, a decent turbo rebuild kit with steel impellers will run between $400-$1000 for both if you can rebuild them yourself or you can assume like my friend did that being ceramic it couldn't hurt the engine if it goes to pieces and have a rebuild bill for over $6000 when it finally lets go.

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