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I need some help with re-building the R32 GTR rear diff with the NISMO 3843S-RS521 disk kit. Of course, all of the instructions are in Japanese. Contacted NISMO here in the States and they are of no help. I never actually tested the break-away torque of the old setup, I just bought this diff used so I thought, hey, why not.

Tore apart the diff and the basket components and installed the disks how it appeared in the diagram. Put everything back together, except no fluid, rigged up a break-away tester, and found it to be absolutely zero ft/lbs break-away.

So, now I am thinking about how we assembled the disks and the one thing that I may have omitted that I shouldn't have. In the OEM form, each clutch disk stack is comprised of 6 disks and one large shim that is on the outside of the stack. We removed all 6 disks and the one large shim that is pictured below, installed the new small shim and all 6 new disks. Did the same for the other side, and put it all back together. Obviously, now there is no break-away torque. Does this large shim need to go back in the casing on both sides?

imag0215w.jpg

imag0216au.jpg

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks......

I need some help with re-building the R32 GTR rear diff with the NISMO 3843S-RS521 disk kit. Of course, all of the instructions are in Japanese. Contacted NISMO here in the States and they are of no help. I never actually tested the break-away torque of the old setup, I just bought this diff used so I thought, hey, why not.

Tore apart the diff and the basket components and installed the disks how it appeared in the diagram. Put everything back together, except no fluid, rigged up a break-away tester, and found it to be absolutely zero ft/lbs break-away.

So, now I am thinking about how we assembled the disks and the one thing that I may have omitted that I shouldn't have. In the OEM form, each clutch disk stack is comprised of 6 disks and one large shim that is on the outside of the stack. We removed all 6 disks and the one large shim that is pictured below, installed the new small shim and all 6 new disks. Did the same for the other side, and put it all back together. Obviously, now there is no break-away torque. Does this large shim need to go back in the casing on both sides?

imag0215w.jpg

imag0216au.jpg

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks......

I would say try it with them in and see what you get. If you can put it all back together 'relatively' easily with the two old shims then it should be right. There is a bit of preload on those.

I can't remember the exact breakaway torque but the number 60ft/lbs keeps springing to mind. I'll see if I can find it in my folders

Yeah, that is what we were thinking too. It isn't hard to take it all apart again, just wanted to make sure that before we do, we somewhat have more of an idea lol.

Ok, so we threw the factory shims/spacers in with the whole stack. with everything put together, we are getting about 110 ft/lbs break-away. Obviously this will change/decrease with some amount of driving. But nonetheless, now we are getting some break-away. Does this sound OK?

Yep. That sounds ok. Let us know how tight that is to begin with please.

You'll need to go out and do figure 8's in a culdesac somewhere to bed in the clutch plates. Usually 15minutes or so is enough.

There was also a 1.85mm friction disk that was included with the kit, I guess for differences in stack height. We left that one out and just threw all the 1.75mm friction disks in. I would assume that the larger disk would increase the break-away torque, which may result in a clunkier diff in parking lots and such. After I get the car running, I'll let everyone know it was successful or a failure lol......

  • 4 months later...

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