Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Up for sale is my 89 R32 gtst type m.

The car is is excellent condition for its age and has just been resprayed about a year ago in the factory silver.

Reason for selling is I can no longer drive this car not being a on a full licence and don't have any points left to risk it. Otherwise I'd be keeping it as I love it to death.

Exterior

Looks wise its fairly standard, has the factory type m skirts, rear pods and I have recently sprayed and fitted a genuine Gtr front bar. Also have fitted a rear lip from viva garage which is fairly unique and in my opinion looks great. Currently rolling on r34 gt stock wheels all round with good rubber. The car sits approximately 1" lower than stock height on bilstein shocks, nice and stiff ride but not to stiff for daily driving (height is still very roadworthy).

Interior

The interior is nice and clean for an 89 model with no cracks or bubbles in the dash, only let down is a tiny rip on the drivers seat. Only interior mods are a boost gauge sneakily installed where the drivers air vent should be which I still have. Also the factory head unit has been replaced with an alpine head unit with an iphone/ipod cable neatly tucked away.

Engine mods

Most of the engine mods have been professionally fitted by the previous owner which include an r34 op6 turbo, nismo 555cc injectors, z32 afm, hks pod, blitz return flow intercooler, splitfire coilpacks, 3" turbo back exhaust currently with twin drift pipes at rear but I have 3" blitz rear muffler to make it quieter. The engine bay appears completely standard due to the return flow cooler and hks pod being mounted inside the shell of a standard airbox. Have had a hwy patrol officer look over and did not pick a single thing out.

The car runs fine and appears healthy but is in need a tune as it runs very rich and has alot more power potential.

estimating power figures at around 165rwkw at the moment.

Have recently done a little service which included and oil and filter change using motal 4100 and installed new ngk copper spark plugs. An oil change has been completed every 5000km's by me since I have owned the car.

bad points

-rear guards have had the lips rolled for bigger wheels

-slight weep of power steering fluid coming from hicas lines but doesn't drip has been like this since I have owned the car (will not be a roadworthy issue)

-small scratch on rear bumper (hardly noticable)

I'm not in a rush to sell so please don't attempt to low ball me, I'm after $8,000 which includes rego until december but no rwc at this stage.

Will put more photo's up this week or I can MMS photo's. 0408391831.

post-78664-0-22491400-1350481547_thumb.jpg

Edited by GTEES
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411789-vic-silver-r32-gtst/
Share on other sites

no RWC doesnt really need anything for it just maybe a drivers seat/ seat cover depending on the strictness of the mechanic and a rear muffler.

as far as i know zac. r32, you can only drive a turbo in vic if its got the factory manufacturing plates stamped as a low powered turbo (new cars only)

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hmmm, what do you mean by getting weaker? And where did you get that test done? I've been wondering about my battery because the cold starts crank super slowly. The voltage is fine. Not sure if cranking amps can be checked at home. Battery is 4+ years old.
    • No. The simplest wastegate hookup, with no solenoid or other form of "boost control" (ie, control over your boost control, if you know what I mean) is a single hose, direct from the turbo outlet/hot pipe, straight and only to the wastegate actuator. It is that pressure signal that drives the wastegate to open, providing the boost control (and by "boost control" here, I mean, limiting how high it can go, which is essentially the spring pressure of the actuator). You only end up with tee pieces and alternate flow paths once you start adding things to the boost control system to allow you to determine how much of that boost signal makes it to the actuator. There are so many ways to do that that there is no single way to run the hoses and tees and the like. If you have a stock boost solenoid, then all it does is either allow all the boost signal to go to the actuator, or open up to allow some of it to bleed off. There needs to be a restriction in that bleeder to allow only a small amount to bleed off. And in a stock system, that would then be plumbed back to the turbo inlet (for "emissions control" reasons). That is actually what that nipple on your BOV return pipe could/would be for. If you have an aftermarket boost controller and solenoid, then the above is mostly true, but there is no need for a restrictor in the bleed, because the solenoid is pulse width modulated to create a variable bleed off. The air that escapes from the bleed can either be vented, or also returned to the turbo inlet. For emissions reasons it should be returned to inlet, but the amount of air being vented is so small that it really doesn't matter (either from an emissions perspective, or from an air-fuel ratio affecting perspective).
    • And other times you just need to go buy bigger injectors?
    • Yup. I actually just blew my turbo. LOL.  should have checked this thread before today. i also have no boost solenoid. so it should be...one line from wastegate to turbo inlet, and a T somewhere in that line that connects to the wastegate return pipe?
    • It's recommended, however I can assure you a good amount of people don't bother. FWIW, the OEM battery lasted 4.5 years and I changed it prematurely too, I reckon could have stretched it to 5 years.
×
×
  • Create New...