Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all as the topic states, I need to request the services of someone on the sunny coast driving an R34 non turbo auto. My missos skyline seems to be runing like sh!t and Im putting it down to no VCT, Ive rewired the vct off the ecu to see if the torque comes back up but nothing.

Would anybody be willing to meet up over a 6 pack of beers or something (if under 18 haha) and let me change over ECU to make sure the one in our car is not rooted?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cars symptoms include: no vct, no torque, no power, bad feul economy, hard to start when warm. Runs and idles with no problems ignition wise.

Do the paperclip diagnostic and you'll have an answer. Reset the ECU for a drive just to rule out any errors from disconnecting stuff.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=348444

Hey all as the topic states, I need to request the services of someone on the sunny coast driving an R34 non turbo auto. My missos skyline seems to be runing like sh!t and Im putting it down to no VCT, Ive rewired the vct off the ecu to see if the torque comes back up but nothing.

Would anybody be willing to meet up over a 6 pack of beers or something (if under 18 haha) and let me change over ECU to make sure the one in our car is not rooted?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cars symptoms include: no vct, no torque, no power, bad feul economy, hard to start when warm. Runs and idles with no problems ignition wise.

VCT and ECU are not your problem. You're going about your diagnostic the wrong way

Oh yeah, someone didn't plug the vacuum line that runs to the butterfly valve between the dual intake by any chance? No recent pod filter shenanigans resulting in a random line being blocked off (that shouldn't be)

Nah mate, have just about checked everything on this engine. Checked plugs, afm, aac, vacuum lines everywhere, tps, cas. Its none of those things. Done the paper clip trick but no sensors are reporting errors (code 55). The vct solenoid has a leak coming out of the plug end not at te threads. Ran a 12v feed to the solenoid to test ot was working and it was. Hooked up a test light to the battery 12v and to the vct ground wire off the ecu. No light even when driving. So this lead me to think that there is something wrong with the ecu unless there is something else i am missing.

I had the problem for awhile and have researched as much info as i could find engine wise so not im starting to wonder if it is ecu.

Don't want to sound like a broken record, but check this highlighted item 10000% it will give the symptoms you're experiencing and won't throw a code up if there is a problem, it normally opens up at about 4200rpm, if it doesn't the car will feel like it has no VCT, it will also run like a pig if it's drawing air after the AFM, which would happen if the line had come off/cracked etc etc so check the full length visually and feel for damage from actuator to intake.

post-1182-0-19204900-1351136026_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey @Butters, did you end up getting this clutch in ? I have just ordered to a uniclutch track to go in my getrag 6 speed that’s in my BNR 32     
    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
×
×
  • Create New...