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Hi,

iv done a quick search and unless i don't know how to use it, i couldn't find anything relevant to my issue.

long story short i recently brought a R34 Gt-t skyline and i knew that it had this issue but figured it couldn't be too hard to fix.

The passenger window works fine when i use the switches on the driver side, goes up and down smoothly, but when using the switch on the passenger side the window will only go up, to go down i would need to do it from the driver side, not much of an issue but an issue non the less.

From my understanding it would have to be the switch as if it was the motor it wouldn't work at all, just wanting to get some info from people who know about or have had the issue and fixed it, i sourced a R34 passenger side switch, does it make a difference if it is a jdm r34 switch or not? just holding off on buying it until i know that is what i need to replace for sure.

Thanks in advance.

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I've had no issues, but if driver side controls works fine up and down for passenger side, then it sounds like you have a problem with the wiring. Either you have done something recently to it and has cut or popped out a wire that runs the signal or it has, well cut or popped somehow.

Where in Sydney are you from? I could take a look if your near 2165?

Yeah I would be in due time, just not right now since I'd like to keep some controls of the car for now. If someone ends up buying the motor, then everything is sure to go.

My illustrated theory is attached :)

post-77866-0-57535600-1350568355_thumb.jpg

Ahh that's perfect thanks heaps man ill give it a look on Sunday

Switch mine failed once already , nissan solder joints suck and rain tends to drop right down on the armrest there if the window is cracked open

Series 1 and 2 cars use different switches that dont interchange , the cut off is 8/2000 and later is S2 , you can tell the series 2 switches are flat on the back white plastic area

Series 1 are bulged out

Series 1 uses normal size parts

Series 2 uses surface mount parts much smaller and a lot harder to resolder

Switch mine failed once already , nissan solder joints suck and rain tends to drop right down on the armrest there if the window is cracked open

Series 1 and 2 cars use different switches that dont interchange , the cut off is 8/2000 and later is S2 , you can tell the series 2 switches are flat on the back white plastic area

Series 1 are bulged out

Series 1 uses normal size parts

Series 2 uses surface mount parts much smaller and a lot harder to resolder

Ahk thanks heaps, iv read a lot about Nissan solder joints being crap as my stock boost gauge kept playing up and it was the solder joints in the black box, thanks for all the info, stupid question but how do I rep?

Ahk thanks heaps, iv read a lot about Nissan solder joints being crap as my stock boost gauge kept playing up and it was the solder joints in the black box, thanks for all the info, stupid question but how do I rep?

Series 1 switches you can resolder if broken

Series 2 you need skills, static straps heat sinks, etc or you'll over heat the part and kill it

Easiest fix swap it out for a working one

Series 1 switches you can resolder if broken

Series 2 you need skills, static straps heat sinks, etc or you'll over heat the part and kill it

Easiest fix swap it out for a working one

I got a series 1 but more than likely ill just go buy another one, thanks for all the help

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