Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys, im pretty much new to the whole skyline scene!

after looking around on the web i cant seem to find too much on what would be really ideal to go aftermarket on, so im hoping someone can shed some light

for a car planned to be used as 80% daily and 20% track whats to go for?

bigger sways

rods

links

i have installed BC BR coilovers but thats about it

any help is appreciated

p.s im also looking into upgrading to a r34 gtr braking system very soon, from what i heard this would be the best option for my scenario

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411996-daily-suspensionsteering-setup/
Share on other sites

24mm adjustable anti-roll bars. HD links are not a bad idea for these.

At least adjustable polyurethane bushes on the front uppers. Adjustable length arms if you want to go harder/nastier with more adjustability (and slightly more chance of getting defected). Same at the rear.

I recommend adjustable length pillow-ball jointed caster arms at the front. Much better than any bushed solution.

New rear subframe bushes. This is hard work, but worth it. If not, then at least some pineapple rings to lock the subframe up a bit.

New diff bushes can be good. This is less about handling than about removing driveline slop and vibration.

Maybe 1° neg camber at rear. Slight toe in for stability or zero toe for a more active rear end.

<2° neg camber at front. 1.5° is usually good. As much caster as you can wind in. Slight negative to zero toe in.

If it gets the wanders in a straight line or tramlines a lot, try a little more front toe in. If it is a bit scary with power on in the corners, try a little more toe in at the rear.

There are a dozen ways to tweak the above settings to suit different tastes and styles. But the above will work without chewing too many tyres. At the track, if you have the adjustability, you can add more neg camber front and rear for the day then take it back off.

GTSBoy is on the money, mine is only a weekender buts gets driven hard.

BC BR coilovers

Whiteline adjustable swaybars, 24mm F, 22mm R

GKTech Pillowball caster arms

Superpro rear camber bushes

1.7 degrees camber front, 1.2 rear, 8 degrees castor

and thats all ive got so far. in my mind its a good place to start if you are short on funds. this is by no means how i will leave my setup. ie i will do pinapples etc when im not so lazy

This has cost $2100ish and im definantly happier with how it rides/handles through the hills. if you plan to do more track days then look at proper adjustable arms.

And of course the best tyres you can afford

on the brakes front the calipers are pretty decent, rda slotted rotors, better pads and braided lines will give a good improvement.

thanks for your share guys, ill definately start looking more in to all these options, i just needed a few ideas first!

and Ahbee just over $2000 sounds like a very resonable price for your setup, have you done all the installments yourself? if so how did you go about it

yea all installs myself, hardest was by far the bushes. $100 press from supercheap auto was all i needed but if i had to do it again i might look at paying someone. coilovers are straightforward, theres plenty of tutorials to follow if your lost, same with swaybars.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...