Cant Set Boost Very High With Blitz Spec R

[blue_vl_t]

Hey guys, I just swapped out my turbotech bleed valve for a blitz dual solenoid ebc spec R

Everything is working as it should, except, i am up to 96 on the boost control.

The boost control goes from 0-100 so its nearly maxed out.

At the 96 setting its sitting on 1.3 bar quite consistantly, I really want to be able to use over 20psi, or 1.5-1.6 bar.

The way its looking it will only go to 1.35 bar max at 100 set point.

car is R32 gtr

stock engine

jun 264 9.7's

-5 turbos with stock 14 psi actuators

Hpi dumps

twin 3" into full 4" system, no cat, one straight through muffler/cannon

With the Turbotech setup i did have boost above 25psi for a while, so the turbos and support gear are fine.

Anyone else experienced this problem?

[Moodles2]

Sure you haven't adjusted gain instead of duty cycle?

[blue_vl_t]

nope, ive had a far play about with it. i have adjusted the gain up to 27 at the moment without any spiking.

the boost setup on the controller was on 50 when i started playing with it and was only running actuator pressure, 13-14 psi.

so ive been adjusting the setting from there up to 96.

but strange, like its run out of range.

i was thinking some different actuators would help, but i would think this unit would do better than this

[MagicMikeZ32]

Controller on 0 should be wastegate pressure.

Check your plumbing.

[blue_vl_t]

cool, i'll check that

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

is yours a dual or single solenoid?

I'm blind nevermind

Edited October 22, 2012 by johnnilicte

[blue_vl_t]

I just went out for another drive, set to 0 (zero) boost is .93 bar, spot on each time. Which I'll assume is wastegate pressure.

Turning the controller up 10% at at time, 10, 20, 30, 40 about when I get to 47 the boost changes to .95bar.

And I continued tonight to set it to 100 (max) and I have 1.32 bar.

Checked lines under the bonnet. It really is piss easy, 'in' is where the manifold pressure goes, it's connected to the plenum b4 the throttle body's.

'out' goes to the two internal gates on the turbos actuators.

Any help appreciated.......

[MagicMikeZ32]

Put manual boost control back in to be sure everything works as expected. If not, look at ebc solenoid.

[Moodles2]

At 100% duty cycle, you should see unlimited boost as the mac valve would effectively be bleeding all the air. Just to confirm you have a manifold pressure line connected, a wastegate line connected, and 1 port on the solenoid not hooked up to anything?

[linkems]

if your not having any luck, screw in some more preload on the actuators. With it dialed all the way in it should give you 19psi gate pressure and shit load more response. Then 25psi will be a piece of cake, all depends on how much minimum boost you want to run though. My spec r also doesnt make any changes from base pressure until 40+.

[blue_vl_t]

The unit only has 2 ports, one marked 'in' and one marked 'out'

Not sure where the air is bleeding out, there is not another port or hole. Bit strange really.

When I have the boost set a bit lower I can hear the valve fluttering and doing its thing. So it works.... Kinda. Lol

[blue_vl_t]

if your not having any luck, screw in some more preload on the actuators. With it dialed all the way in it should give you 19psi gate pressure and shit load more response. Then 25psi will be a piece of cake, all depends on how much minimum boost you want to run though. My spec r also doesnt make any changes from base pressure until 40+.

Good to hear, im not the only one then, yours sounds like it does something similar. I adjusted the wastegates to have a bit of preload, looked it up on sau, they have been like it for the past year.

So you get 19psi out of the stock actuators just with more preload? More preload means the wastegate flap cannot open as far, so giving worse control over boost pressure too yea??

[DVS JEZ]

Im guessing u installed the controller at the stock boost solenoid hoses? This doesnt work, well hasnt for me anyway, i had to change to a different pressure source to get it to work as the stock pressure source is connected to the bov plumback or something stoopid,

[Moodles2]

When I installed my EBC, the workshop had to run a new manifold source line as DVS has said, the stock line doesn't work (the source is already bled, clutch line iirc)

[blue_vl_t]

Checked the lines tonight, one straight from under the plenum to the solenoid

and the other comes from the actuators around the back of the motor in the hard lines to the solenoid, there is one "T" in the hard line which i have blocked off.

So the lines seem fine.

I do have the solenoid mounted where the stock solenoid use to live on the drivers side, perhaps it need to be closer to the turbos? Its a bit shit to have to move it now as i have run the cables in the guards and all.

Also i figure its best for it as it will get hotter on the passenger side of the engine bay, thats if i can find anywhere it will fit........

Lets say i looked into getting some different actuators anyway, where have people bought theirs from, I can only really find actuators that are 1 bar or a HD HKS ones, Can 18 or 19 or 20 psi actuators be bought off the shelf?

[linkems]

Electronic Boost controllers do not bleed, they simply supply pressure to the actuator in a normal situation or block it when energized. At 100% duty there is supposed to be no pressure going to the actuator at all so you lose all control and run "max boost". Now mac valves work pretty much the same, only it has a third port that that vents the pressure, as oppose to pressure going no where when solenoid is energized either way they work the same.I am a bit baffled why your car can make the boost on the turbo tech but not on the solenoid, either the blitz is incapable of running that much boost or when you switched controllers you coincidentally introduced some boost leaks to the system (intercooler pipes etc...).

There is no off shelf actuators stiffer then 14psi, however if you shorten the rod (10mm) like i told you you'll get up to 19psi out of it. This will not cause an overboost it is doing the exact same thing your boost controller is attempting to do only its doing it mechanically and a lot better. The advantage is with this much tension on the actuator, there is no creeping and boost builds faster and harder then any electronic controller can attempt to. Downside is your minimum boost has been raised, so there is no real safety boost any more. I personally ran 8mm (10 full turns) preload on my car which is 17.5psi, just make sure you do them both even and switch your boost controller to 0 before you go for a drive it will only take you 5minutes to do this so give it a crack. With this much tension from the spring its hard to attatch the rod to the wastegate, so use an air compressor or air pump to help.

[KiwiRS4T]

If you can get 25psi with a bleed valve then the actuators are not the problem. Either the boost controller is hooked up wrongly or it is faulty.

[Moodles2]

If it's a blocking type solenoid, then I think it's either faulty at the controller (not sending the right signal) or faulty at the solenoid (range of movement, it's not blocking the line completely)

[hugwase]

I know you stated you have a spec R but is it? Maybe it's a spec S? Just a thought.