Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Awesome! I have had my car so long now I remember back to 2004 when I thought i was the cool kid with my race seat and (new at the time) MyChron Gold :(

Interior.jpg

LOL, time for me to get with the times :(

All the new ones are now fancy colour LED LCDs so even this is old school!

Great to have basically everything directly in view and not need any gauges

All the new ones are now fancy colour LED LCDs so even this is old school!

Great to have basically everything directly in view and not need any gauges

Yeh, they are pretty cool things...but I actually prefer to MXL and MXL2 vs the MXS. The colour LCD are too playstation and I suppose I am just liking in the past of the Pi dash being what a dash logger should look like :)

First time with 2 bar of boost on the track... Interesting!!!

That was at the last round of the WA Sprint Championship, holding off a few quick R32 GTRs and all those Evos/WRXs to get both the overall win and class win for the season.

IMAG0701_zpsytnnysvw.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

Few weeks ago at Barbagallo again, ran 2 x 60.5's in a row which is a little off my PB but tyres have seen better days. Interesting that I ran high boost (just under 2 bar) compared to the normal 1.5bar and held 4th to limiter on back straight instead of using 4th. Picked up 18kmhr just doing this which puts me right up there with the quickest cars I've ever seen logged down the straight.

Edited by SimonR32
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

What clutch are you running and how many stock boxes have you gone through at that power level lol

OS Giken Triple Plate with steel cover (not ally as they seem to be bitches)

2 x 3rd gears, 1 input shaft and 1 5th/reverse selector. They are actually pretty tough if you don't smash gear changes and use redline lighweight shockproof

  • Like 1

I've got the os quad plate with ally cover. Used to be brutal to the point of considering binning it but now it's been abused a little it drives really nicely. Not sure if it has bedded in or something else changed...

  • 4 months later...
Bit of an update for those who don't know or haven't heard...


Took it to the drags for a run as there was a small leak from the front of gearbox and I guessed the rear main seal had cried enough. I figured if I went to the drags I'd probably break another box so would just fix 2 birds with one stone. Like a special child I left it in RWD first run and then did a lazy 10.8 @ 135mph but motor didn't feel 100%. Noticed it was on 5cyl under brakes (couldn't tell when it was on gate) and turned onto the return road to a small knock. It almost instantly went away so figured I was hearing things but when I got back to the pits I checked the logs and it was well down on boost (3-4psi from memory). So naturally figured I should just turn it up a little so adjusted the wastegate duty cycle a bit higher. Turned car back on to a reasonable size knock, shut it straight down and called Turner over. Turned it back on to a massive knock, shut it down again and then got it towed.


Have been spending the last few months slowly stripping current motor and putting the parts on my spare stocker, found number 6 spark plug was closed so we just assumed that it had done the big end bad enough that the piston had hit the spark plug. I grabbed some new cams, same lift but smaller duration to try and get a bit more response. I also swapped the head studs over, the new motor has a stock head gasket so will be interesting to see how well that hangs on. Fast forward to last weekend and we pulled out the old motor and put in the new one, so will just get that tuned soon and back good to go. Motor top end is actually very quiet compared with the previous one but that may be due to the following...


So when the motor came out we pulled off the cam cap of number 6 and the bearing was good, which made us WTF for about 10 sec till we found one of the inlet valve guides missing. Simples, RB26's are fairly well known for that, but today I figured I'll pull the head off and check out the damage to head, piston and bore to find this;


20160430_191204_zpskzpijw0c.jpg


20160430_170357_zps83o9hvh5.jpg


and then found that another 5 guides had dropped in cylinders 2-5 (number 1 was the only one not f**ked), number 3 had dropped both inlet valve guide. Funny thing is that they all had carbon build up over the damage, as I've always run on E85 it seems to point that they have all been f**ked since before it came from Japan! Regardless, 4 pistons and combustion chambers have had damage from mashing the valve guide inside the bore for a fair while unknown to anyone but still happy to smash out 740hp all day haha


20160430_170559_zpscz1ekheg.jpg


20160430_170504_zps8pt9jiiq.jpg


20160430_170251_zpssqlbsxb6.jpg


20160430_170304_zpsudxxglae.jpg


20160430_170324_zpsmv6ekfen.jpg


20160430_170334_zps4xbwgzuu.jpg


20160430_170348_zpswjwdfrk2.jpg


20160430_170412_zps9uqitbd4.jpg


20160430_170408_zpsnh64dayk.jpg


20160430_170405_zpsdv6q5ada.jpg


20160430_170402_zpsuzq2qlh3.jpg

  • Like 2
  • 3 weeks later...

New motor in and going with the Tomei Poncams (Type R) 250 x 9.1mm

Went 590hp at 1.5bar and 670hp with 1.9bar. Didn't bother pushing any harder as I just want to see it's all good until I push it a bit more. A little disappointed I didn't pick up much low down power with the smaller cams so might try type-B's in the future.

  • Like 6

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
×
×
  • Create New...