Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, new to forum and just bought my Stagea. Beaut car. Was just wondering can anyone suggest a really good value for money 3 inch turbo back exhaust with high flow cat? Hit me with anything no matter how loud or quiet but really keen on at least a nice toned 3 inch sized zorst.

Cheers heaps,

Mitch.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412148-wgnc34-exhaust/
Share on other sites

Hey mate, welcome onboard. Firstly the biggest thing round here is the search feature. Using it will help u lots and avoid flamings. Try the sau business traders (such as just jap) as they have exhausts for stageas. Theres lots of options so search, search, search. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412148-wgnc34-exhaust/#findComment-6592330
Share on other sites

unless the std exhaust is holding you back from making power leave it!

first try a front pipe, high flow cat, and a bit more boost (11psi) - best to get it done on a dyno to see how the motor responds

i have the above mods and my car makes 120rwkw, and for a street car its more then enough go to keep you busy and all in silence!

focus on getting it to handle right before going for power, which will mean front mount, exhaust, ecu and tune (decent $$)

if its a daily driver believe me there is nothing worse than the drone of an exhuast echo'ing through a wagon..!

i fitted a 3" turbo back with 2 mufflers, and sure it sounds great when your revving it in your driveway, but at 6am on the freeway on the way to work it will do your HEAD IN!

my 2 cents :cool:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412148-wgnc34-exhaust/#findComment-6593785
Share on other sites

if its a daily driver believe me there is nothing worse than the drone of an exhuast echo'ing through a wagon..!

i fitted a 3" turbo back with 2 mufflers, and sure it sounds great when your revving it in your driveway, but at 6am on the freeway on the way to work it will do your HEAD IN!

my 2 cents :cool:

Thats where u went wrong. Mufflers are to reduce noise, resenators reduce drone (also known as resenence). 1 look at 90% of the jap exhausts will show them with 1 good muffler and a cannon (which is a resenator). Cut off the 2nd muffler and get a cannon or any other resenator and it will be 100 times nicer. After a really bad droning exhaust being made by a shop. Ive done 4 different exhausts on my stageas trying to find what works best to reduce drone, the resenator and muffler combo works best.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412148-wgnc34-exhaust/#findComment-6594584
Share on other sites

Im running GKTech Stainless 3inch Dump, front & decat pipes. That cat back is a stainless Trust system that was on the car when I bought it. It does drone abit (more noticeable with the windows up) but you have to expect a bit of drone. Sounds great when you get up it!

The GKTech items are all to suit R32/33 and are VERY well priced. Fitment was great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412148-wgnc34-exhaust/#findComment-6595152
Share on other sites

Anyone got a titanium system? I've spent so much money on my exhaust I could have bought one. But do they sound nasty? I'm either going to get a complete custom made one or get something like an HKS silent power (I want a 3 1/2 in system but they are quite hard to come by which is why I am considering a custom made job).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412148-wgnc34-exhaust/#findComment-6597667
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...