Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

While my s1 was sitting for a month or two waiting for me to finish the water pump and cambelt replacement, it turns out the rear shocks leaked out and are now good for nothing. Earthquake ruined roads here are partially to blame.

I've seen some advice on here about replacement shocks, mostly upgrading or lowering, neither of which I'm interested in. I just want to replace the standard shocks, unless it's no more expensive to upgrade.

I've sourced a local supplier $153+GST each - Anyone in Chch/NZ know of a better price than that? (bear in mind 4WD)

Is there anything particularly tricky to this replacement? Do I need special tools? If there is no guide on SAU (I couldn't find one) I'll see about documenting my steps.

I'd appreciate any advice/tips on this job...

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412168-rear-shocks-replacement-guide/
Share on other sites

Rears are super easy. Easier than the front, which can be a bit tricky (read: dangerous) with spring compressors, if you have tapered springs.

Have a read here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/77849-r3233-replacing-shocks-installing-coilovers/page__hl__strut

With the stagea you dont have to pull out any of the interior to get to the strut tops, except for the plastic covers which are on top of the strut towers.

The only special tools are spring compressors.

Ok cheers, will need spring compressors. A mate at work is telling me they are separate and I wouldn't need compressors.

Guide looks good but some photos blanking so maybe I'll make another version.

I also see from a sticky topic here that the wgnc34 can use the same rear shocks as the r33 gtst. Would I be likely to get a cheaper deal but just as appropriate shock if I got quotes asking for r33 gtst shocks? I'm wondering how a heavy ol 4wd stagea could have the same shocks...

They are not the same. Here's a set for $200 (you can use your current springs if you prefer)

http://www.trademe.c...n-525713324.htm

If you want brand new I don't think you'll do much better than $150 each.

The job is fairly easy so long as you don't rush and are sensible. I didn't have spring compressors I used wire ties but spring compressors are easier and you can hire them (or maybe borrow from an SDU member in Christchurch). Sorry I'm too far away to lend a hand.

Thanks for the info guys.

One thing I'm not clear on is what shocks are interchangeable if I were to get second hand - eg, can I use rear shocks from a Rwd? how about a 4wd turbo ?(since mine is 4WD N/A)

I'm in the process of setting up an inhouse wiki at my work place so that all the engineers can share and record their designs as well as facts/specs about the products.

I reckon what is needed is a stagea Wiki, so that you don't have to wade through hundreds of conflicting forum posts to get the lowdown. The forums are good for discussion, but to get a simple piece of info. Maybe I'll look into setting one up...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • careful when running the car after a boil over. Ive heard you can lose enough coolant that it won't show the right temps because of too much air in the system (or something like that). Make sure the levels are good before trying again.  Maybe a mobile mechanic can come have a look with their scan tool ?
    • OK, just for some extra clarity - there is more than one option at Frenchy's. 1. You can buy the whole kit - with or without the actual compressor. The whole kit includes mounts, hoses, condensor, etc. That's either ~$2200 or ~$2800. No surgery required with this option. 2. You can buy just the bracket (~$600), or the bracket with the compressor (~$1200). Either of this or the above option "without the compressor" is if you already have an Echo comp or you are able to source one locally. Whatever the case, in this option, you will need surgery done on your hoses to adapt to the new compressor. When I said "the Frenchy's kit", I meant the whole kit in option 1. It is obviously somewhat more $$ than a $1500 OEM compressor. But if I had to spend $1500 on an OEM compressor, I would certainly consider spending double that to renew and significantly update everything forward of the firewall. Another option is to rebuild your original compressor. My R34 comp is currently dead and I will be most likely doing that to it if the spare one in the shed is also leaky.
    • I’m thinking that’s the route I’ll  go, thanks for the input!
    • Hey all, my 2004 Nissan Skyline 350GT overheated the other day with coolant boiling and leaking out of the coolant reservoir when I was parking. So today, I started it up again just to see if it was a thermostat/head gasket issue. After about 20 mins of running, temps were normal again, no coolant was leaking out and the upper reservoir hose was warm but my engine suddenly cut off. I checked the oil dipstick and cap when it was running and there was no white foamy residue and the exhaust did not have white smoke. I tried starting up the car again but it would only crank, similar to when I had a camshaft sensor issue just that now there’s no check engine light on the dash. Any ideas? Unfortunately I don’t have an OBD2 that can read the Nissan's programme.
    • Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
×
×
  • Create New...