Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all im new to sau hopefully this is in the right section,

ill get straight to the point,

i bought a r33 which has been fully rebuilt 2000ks ago forged internals, plenum, high mount manifold, hybrid or garrett turbo cant remember what it is, apexi fc, hybrid fmic, coilovers, fuel reg, 044 pump, been told by the owner it had a GTR oil pump fitted when rebuilt, now i bought the car without hearing it as the owner pulled the head off, yes i know stupid thing to do but i got this r33 cheap... cheaper then buying a 6boost plenum and high mount manifold...

now the old owner said reason why he pulled the head off is because he started to low oil pressure (cluster gauge) took it to the engine builder not sure if he checked it over but anyways told the owner the cluster gauges always stuff out common problem anyways, the old owner said that the car lost all power like it wasnt making boost...

now nothing has been said about a drive collar been put on the crank for the GTR oil pump do you believe the pump has shit its self and thats why it had no oil pressure and now stuffed the motor?

i have spoken to the engine builder and he hasnt said boo about a drive collar fitted...

old owner story always changed he was also on rev limiter when it f**ked out... my guess is oil pump shit it self

i will be pulling the motor apart to inspect just thought ill throw this up

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412185-forged-internals-rb25-drama/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Why a GTR pump fitted to a to a RB25 crankshaft, sounds pretty stupid.

They are the same factory pump anyway.

I'm guessing he means N1

A quick search is all that's required to know to stay the hell away from those pieces of shit.

Thanks guys, so hopefully it has a "GTR" oil pump in it like the engine builder says it does therefore likely hood of it f**king out like the N1 is pretty slim, engine builder said the gtr pump cost $1000 so I'm not sure if it a n1 oil pump guess I gotta wait to pull it apart fingers crossed bottom end is fine

Anyways I do believe its a n1 oil pump as he said it was a upgrade from a standard pump and seeing as n1 pumps are high flow... So guess the crank doesn't have a collar and now has scored the bearings and crank

Thank you, so my tale on this engine is that, oil pump has fail due to engine builder not doing what is required with fitting a n1 pump which has now (guessing) f**ked the bottom end

You wont really know for sure until you rip it apart, which I recommend is the next thing you do.

If you pull it all apart you might find some simple issues and can salvage the remainder of the built motor.

If you make an assumption that the problem is X Y or Z and try to fix that you could just be in for more headaches and lose the rest of the goodies the motor has to offer.

You wont really know for sure until you rip it apart, which I recommend is the next thing you do.

If you pull it all apart you might find some simple issues and can salvage the remainder of the built motor.

If you make an assumption that the problem is X Y or Z and try to fix that you could just be in for more headaches and lose the rest of the goodies the motor has to offer.

Thanks for your advise, I am deff stripping the motor down to find out what went wrong, head is already off just gotta strip the block now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
    • How much does the shifter move when the car is in gear with the engine off? If it is more than about 1cm you need to replace your shifter bush. Your shifts will just get crunchier, not faster, with a short shifter unless you also rebuild the whole box
    • I should video mine, will prob do it tomorrow    Between 1st and 3rd, you could fit another two gears. That is how loose and wobbly it is   horrible:(
×
×
  • Create New...