Forged Internals Rb25 Drama

[R32Abuser]

SOrry to hear...

If I were you I would do one of two things:

1. Build another forged motor - DO IT ONCE DO IT PROPERLY! I would consider buying a bottom end from RIPS

2. Get another OEM RB30E and leave the bottom end. Depending on your turbo and power target it may be more than adequate if you tune safely.

[mickr33couple]

Yeah it sucks, don't know what would of cause the squiters to break,

Paying a shop to carry out the work you would think it would of been done right oh well

Pistons are fine rods are fine

[R32Abuser]

I'd be getting them crack tested before using them...otherwise I wouldnt risk it!

Also, I thought we were talking RB30 for some reason in my earlier post (too early in the morning!). So RIPS probably wouldn't be my first option for RB25.

On the otherhand, you could go RB30...

Edited October 31, 2012 by R32Abuser

[The Dan]

Crank will be cracked.

Squirters only break if you put the wrong pistons in or you put them the wrong way around (they have a relief cut out for the squirter)

[mickr33couple]

Yeah wouldn't be using the crank,

The engine builder is blaming it on the old owner for f**king it, etc giving it a hard time when not tune etc, but I think it's got to do with the engine builder and pistons hitting the squiters

[The Dan]

Yeah wouldn't be using the crank,

The engine builder is blaming it on the old owner for f**king it, etc giving it a hard time when not tune etc, but I think it's got to do with the engine builder and pistons hitting the squiters

I hope you took lots of photos before you slid those pistons out

[mickr33couple]

I wish I did, but the car is at the shop with the guy that build the motor he was there when found the squiters broken and he said that there was 2mm to 3mm before anything would of hit the squiters and the pistons already came cut out to accommodate the squiters...

As you said I believe the only way squiters could of broke is not enough clearance, but as the engine builder he would be trying to put it on to the other bloke coz he wouldn't wanna folk out money to rebuild the motor... f**king shit

[The Dan]

There should be some very very small witness marks on the bottom of the piston skirt

[mickr33couple]

I will have a close look, is this the only way they could break? Think engine builder is trying to say its from too much oil pressure or low oil pressure?

[The Dan]

I will have a close look, is this the only way they could break? Think engine builder is trying to say its from too much oil pressure or low oil pressure?

Then he is wrong.

Yes that is the only way they can break other than putting them in incorrectly. If you don't line up the little locator lug they will snap across the banjo part. If the piston hits it, it will snap the stem off and leave the banjo part in tact.

I prob have spares if you need some but I'm guessing you'll need more than just that to get this up and going again

[The Dan]

Also....I would be more than happy to inspect any high res photos you can take if you want some advise. I've seen a lot of this stuff before so I can lend my experience if you need it.

I don't have much spare time but if I can help you out I will

[mickr33couple]

Yes that would be great mate, thanks heaps I can already see the engine builder will not say its his f**k up as I'm sure he wouldn't wanna pay for a customers engine to get rebuilt, the squiters are broken clean off from where the bolt is there is only 1 squiter in tack out of the 6

[mickr33couple]

Photo of the oil pump this crank has no drive collar

Thoughts?

[The Dan]

Photo of the oil pump this crank has no drive collar

Thoughts?

Has the crank fouled against the oil pump?

[mickr33couple]

Sorry what do you mean?

[abr33]

I thought the crank had a few mm clearance from pump, so wtf has happened with the thrust bearing??

[The Dan]

Sorry what do you mean?

It looks like the crank has been chewing out the centre of the back of the pump. Thrust bearing must be totally shagged

[mickr33couple]

Yeah think so, gonna pull the crank out on Saturday,

#6 rod got really hot it's like a purplely colour where the cap goes over the crank with the bearings and the bearings were f**ked and # bearing was stuck to the crank had to use alot of force to get the bearing out,

With pistons and rods out, engine builder said should be able to turn the crank by the flywheel bolts with ease (two fingers) as when he put it all together with pistons and rods and said he could spin it easey but nope gotta use some force, (big end bearings stuff too)

[mickr33couple]

Has the crank fouled against the oil pump?

Update if anyone is keen,

Yes the crank was fouled against the oil pump it also fouled against the block and girdle, so block and girdle are stuffed, also all bearings, mains and rods are scored and not useable the rods are not useable, oil pump hasn't gave way!!

What I can gather is, n1 oil pump as higher flow then stock and with no oil restrictors, larger sump or head drain while sitting on the limiter has left the bottom end empty and has caused all this damage,

As for the oil jets, there is no marks on the under skirts of the pistons to say the pistons hit it

[The Dan]

What I can gather is, n1 oil pump as higher flow then stock and with no oil restrictors, larger sump or head drain while sitting on the limiter has left the bottom end empty and has caused all this damage,

This is completely incorrect.

The N1 oil pump doesn't flow that much and thrust bearing wear isn't caused by oil starvation. The main bearings die long before the thrust side wears out