Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an auto 93 r33 GTS-t and it is only making 90kw on the dyno ...

it has no power down low, or even thru the middle rev range, BUT i can feel it hit boost around about 5,000rpm ..

the only mods that are on it are:

* HKS Superdragger exhaust

* Turbosmart BOV

* Turbosmart boost controller

even before any of the above mods were made it still ran like shit, and my mate had it on his dyno today and it has only made a top of 90kw, he had thought that the cat may have collapsed but that isnt the case .. he has told me that r33's havent got the best standard ECU, BUT some are quite good and others are shitty its just the luck of the draw ..

what could be the problem?? he is flat out with work and unfortunately didnt have the time today to go over it all ..

any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412261-need-help-r33-gts-t-with-90kw/
Share on other sites

Factory boost level?

If so you'd only expect around 140rwkw or so, and the auto will suck about 10k off that. So a problem yes - most likely as stated around the timing of the CAS, or the actual cam belt being off a tooth as well causing issues (also common).

Thanks for the feedback guys, my mate had done a smoke test and it had come up clear so we will check the timing asap, but its no longer running stock boost level, he set it at around 9psi I think

That's what I would like to try, so if anyone in Newcastle or the Central Coast has a known working ECU and would let me try it out it would be much appreciated and I can get a carton of beer or whatever for their time and help!!!

If it suits you more pal I'd be more than happy to wait till the weekend until its out permanently, how's that sound for you? Where are you from, I could come pick it up and try it out at your place

I have an auto 93 r33 GTS-t and it is only making 90kw on the dyno ...

it has no power down low, or even thru the middle rev range, BUT i can feel it hit boost around about 5,000rpm ..

the only mods that are on it are:

* HKS Superdragger exhaust

* Turbosmart BOV

* Turbosmart boost controller

even before any of the above mods were made it still ran like shit, and my mate had it on his dyno today and it has only made a top of 90kw, he had thought that the cat may have collapsed but that isnt the case .. he has told me that r33's havent got the best standard ECU, BUT some are quite good and others are shitty its just the luck of the draw ..

what could be the problem?? he is flat out with work and unfortunately didnt have the time today to go over it all ..

any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!

THIS is the EXACT same problem I am having after my engine swap. shitty power down low, makes boost fine but no pull untill 5000rpm

Checked everything I could by myself, Cam timing exhaust restriction boost/vacuum leaks etc. Also If you put a timing light on it can you actually get a reading, mine just jumps around.

I noticed the other day that my injectors are not the standard purple colour they are red, so im guessing thats my issue and a long shot but could be yours???

I've only ever seen this problem in marine and I'm not sure what spark plugs are required in rb's but I've seen a mercury 75hp have crazy issues and jump around on the timing light because the resistor in one of the spark plugs failed.

  • 2 weeks later...

ok well i tried a new ECU this afternoon and no difference, so i will be moving onto trying a new AFM ..

if anyone around the newcastle/central coast region has a spare afm for a series 1 33 that i could borrow it would be much appreciated !!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
    • As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
    • but any other area than the bulge you are talking about will just cave in then? The front driver side is pretty bent so I don't know if that will work the way it is now. I can still kinda make out where that bulge is/was but it looks like the position of it also changed due to all the mistreatment? Hard to tell
×
×
  • Create New...