Jump to content
SAU Community

Stegea Ecu , 4 Wd Light , Susp , Etc

Aps

By Aps,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Aps Contributor

Aps

Posted
Posted

I need some general info on replacing the ecu and how much this improves economy . Give us an rough cost involved for someone to replace it . I have a 01 250 t rs4 stock it could be a bit better on fuel knowing they are a thirsty car generally .A few other things while I'm on the forum for the people who are way more technical minded than me ; 4 wd light comes on intermittently ( dealer reset the comp and found no fault ). Auto trans , are the adjustable as the car kicks into second on slow turns into streets with normal driving and only wants to go into 1st if you really gas it ,it may just be the trait of the auto on these cars .

What is a quality muffler for these cars that resembles the factory twin tip ( mine sounds fine but only one seems to have any flow to it .

Lastly can u recommend a quality touring suspension upgrade and where in Adelaide would you trust to have a detailed check on the existing set up ?

Cheers Aappreciate any advice...

Can't wait till they start hammering those v8 nissans around clipsal !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412294-stegea-ecu-4-wd-light-susp-etc/
Share on other sites
ClassOne Enthusiast

ClassOne

Posted
Posted

What sort of economy are you getting?

The most you will ever put into the tank is 72L.

Nissan states last 10L is really usable.

My 250 t rs4 gets just under 10L/ 100 .

The economy really depends on your driving.. The throttle is very sensitive. Watch the boost gauge... If your driving along and want to pick up a little speed, apply accelerator and watch boost... You will notice that from 5th gear, when boost exceeds ATMO, box will drop down a gear. If TP is large and boost increasing rapidly, the down 2 gears and so on.

You can get a plenum spacer to help with this...

Also if you hate your delayed throttle , blitz make a module to fix this.

Exhaust is rubbish... Get a new front section, and a jap cat back, I'm going for the blitz nur touring system.

Coilovers, Cusco make a set in there zero comfort series... Upper mounts are a nolethane .. So nice and quiet .

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Sounds like the attessa needs bleeding.

The muffler is normal, one side open constantly, the other opens under boost hopefully.

The auto is a pos. It will never be in the gear you want it to be.

Get a set of BC coilovers, they are cheap and work exceptionally well.

Aps Contributor

Aps

Posted
  • Author
Posted

On the economy issue I pretty sure I'm not getting 10l/100k but I'm doing mainly city driving and really not giving it too much stick ( kids school runs etc)the last service I mentioned the Economy so expected a better result but really haven't noticed an improvement , what is the main thing to mod to improve Economy ?will a new ecu do the trick ?

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

A new ecu won't change anything, 10L per hundred is pretty good for a 2 ton turbo car, be glad you didn't buy the Holden sportswagon then.

If you feel it is still running a bit rich you could change the o2 sensor perhaps? They only last around 80,000k's apparently.

BC coilovers start at around $1200 on Just Jap I think.

Aps Contributor

Aps

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Can u tell me what to expect to pay for a new cat converter , have been told replacing this will improve economy and response . Cars done 80000 ish , have had a tune , o2 checked and cleared of any issues , plugs gapped etc . Got quoted 550 from sinergy motors which is where I bought the car , does that sound about right ? The stock exhaust really doesn't seem too worn so not really keen to drop a heap of money just yet on a complete system , not until it really needs it so replacing the cat seems like the go . Cheers

Aps Contributor

Aps

Posted
  • Author
Posted

By the way def not getting 10l/100k more like 15 think I can do better . The in car read out confuses me it reads differently from a lot I've seen 7.1km/ L and then a km read out below .

What the !!??

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

There are at least two restrictive cats on your car, one in the dump and one or more in the front pipe. Which parts were Sinergy replacing exactly?

PM me if you would like a quote for my proven dump/front pipe design. ;)

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

Do as Scotty says and ditch the dump pipe and front pipe. If you need someone to install let me know and I can point you in the right direction. You'll end up with one new high flow cat, instead of two old, restrictive, f*cked ones.

In terms of suspension check up in Adelaide, I wouldn't bother. Just chuck in a set of BCs. I've got a set of BRs ($1299), Scotty cheaped out and got the V1s ($1199), which he's happy with. I'd probably also change the front end bushes.

Shift kit is a good idea but I don't think MV have the right kit. PM Jetwreck and see when he's doing another run, MV Automatics can install if you need.

You shouldn't need to take it back to Sinergy for anything now, and I'd expect you could get the cat replaced for less than $550 (If thats all you're doing - don't - replace dump and front pipe).

Aps Contributor

Aps

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm happy to get the standard service done there , and I've got an extended warranty through them but am happy to get any other work done else where , let me know where u recommend for the exhaust work and is that price include delivery or are you in Adelaide (Scotty ) ?

What labour $

Out of interest what would be a full system replacement cost ? Twin tip muffler , something reasonably subtle , and quiet if the old one packed it in

What's you're view on sinergy ? I bought the car from them and have had one service , discs machined .no probs at all , have heard a few murmers they are a bit pricey for more extensive work . I'm not looking at doing big mods on my car , I just want to keep it running and handling as smoothly as possible as the family car .

Thanks for the advice

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

I'm happy to get the standard service done there , and I've got an extended warranty through them but am happy to get any other work done else where , let me know where u recommend for the exhaust work and is that price include delivery or are you in Adelaide (Scotty ) ?

What labour $

Out of interest what would be a full system replacement cost ? Twin tip muffler , something reasonably subtle , and quiet if the old one packed it in

What's you're view on sinergy ? I bought the car from them and have had one service , discs machined .no probs at all , have heard a few murmers they are a bit pricey for more extensive work . I'm not looking at doing big mods on my car , I just want to keep it running and handling as smoothly as possible as the family car .

Thanks for the advice

Scotty is in Melbourne. If you need it fitted in Adelaide talk to AM Performance, Andrew is happy to install Scotty's gear once it arrives.

If you want to replace the rear too, which I don't think is quite as urgent, see what Scotty can provide, talk to Andrew at AM, or get a Jap exhaust.

I haven't had any dealings with Sinergy, but haven't heard anything particularly good. These cars are easy to service yourself, most people seem to DIY, so I wouldn't bother taking it back there.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Do as Scotty says and ditch the dump pipe and front pipe. If you need someone to install let me know and I can point you in the right direction. You'll end up with one new high flow cat, instead of two old, restrictive, f*cked ones.

In terms of suspension check up in Adelaide, I wouldn't bother. Just chuck in a set of BCs. I've got a set of BRs ($1299), Scotty cheaped out and got the V1s ($1199), which he's happy with. I'd probably also change the front end bushes.

Shift kit is a good idea but I don't think MV have the right kit. PM Jetwreck and see when he's doing another run, MV Automatics can install if you need.

I didn't cheap out Ryan, the V1's were the only struts available when I bought them nearly 4 years ago... (I was the first customer here I think) Still going strong.

I have a shift kit here, $300. Just take it to MV for fitting. :)

  • 4 weeks later...
Aps Contributor

Aps

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Scotty can you quote me on a full system for the stegea m35 I'm thinking if the new front pipes plus inst. will b around the 1000 mark then it might b more cost effective to do the full system ( does that include twin tip muffler ) down the track .

Aegats Rising Star

Aegats

Posted
Posted

Aps did you get the 4wd light issue sorted out? Mine has started to come one, before it was every few weeks but now its like every 2nd time.

I've heard that bleeding the system or changing the relay. Is there any thing else that can be looked at?

Aps Contributor

Aps

Posted
  • Author
Posted

According to the mechanic it's the pressure switch that is faulty , this however isn't sold as a individual part only the whole assembly . That's what there telling me anyway so if any one has more info let me know . Mine is on and off all the time , can't feel any issues with the drive .

Aegats Rising Star

Aegats

Posted
Posted

Ok, I'm curious to see how this goes. I don't feel any difference when driving with the 4wd light on but I'd rather get it sorted.

Sometimes when the light comes on I just switch of the car and restart it and the light disappears.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • silviaz
      R32gtr sputtering and stalling

      By silviaz · Posted

      How do you go about diagnosing ecu's that don't have data logging, is it more experience at that point and just trying out things that you think will fix the issue?
    • MBS206
      R32gtr sputtering and stalling

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Stock O2 are basically useless beyond anything at stoich. Any misfire will also be seen as lean. The stock O2 also read a collective exhaust gas volume, not each cylinder. Sputtering and missing means not each cycle is firing, and some are. Which means even if rich, as shit, on cylinders as they miss, they'll read lean, but the cylinders that did fire will read rich, and combined, well, they can read anything from rich to lean.   Start with the basics before even going looking at sensor values.   Edit: I say the above, and that's coming from the guy with a few thousand dollars worth of scan tools sitting right beside me right now that I use frequently for my job.
    • sk8boy204
      Auto GTS4/Stagea transfer case.

      By sk8boy204 · Posted

      I just finished up a manual swap and I have a 1999 S2 AWD automatic in my garage, depending on where you are located. I'm in the the midwest of the US.
    • r32-25t
      R33 GTR N1 REO on an r32 ?

      By r32-25t · Posted

      I’ve heard it can be done, you need to redrill the holes where they bolt to the chassis and apart from that they are the same. I’ve never done it or know anyone personally that has, it’s just something I’ve heard 
    • joshuaho96
      R32gtr sputtering and stalling

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      If it's reading full rich prior to a misfire that gives one directional hint, if it's already reading lean, etc. If it's reading pretty cleanly stoichiometric then suddenly drops out from a misfire that suggests it's not air mass estimation that's the problem. Could be ignition, could be something more subtle. Could be the CAS has decided to start dropping out at random or the drive pin is worn leading to excessive lash and trigger errors. LTFT can tell you the same but it's slower to react and if this is a recent issue it might not have stabilized. STFT stuck in one direction vs fluctuating back and forth can be used instead but I like to read O2 voltages anyways and interpret directly. If the O2 voltages make no sense in general or are super slow to react it could also be a failing O2 sensor. There's no real error correction for failing O2 sensors in these cars.
×
×
  • Create New...