Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I need to replace all the silicone joiners on the intercooler, From the one from the throttle body to intake pipe, from intake pipe to intercooler piping, I measured them all. I measured 3in on the hose from intercooler piping to intake pipe but have read that people are using 2 1/2 in hose/joiner. And i would take it that the throttle body one would be 3in plus?

Its a standard intake system so if anyone knows the sizes i need as mine are drying out and all crappy, and think is causing a boost like.

All the info you guys have would be a great help

cheers guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412311-silicone-joiners-for-34-gtt/
Share on other sites

I think i have my originals in a box at home if that helps? But if you can its probably better to put fresh ones on if you are going to the effort :)

I think i have a spare 3" joiner from my setup, if i remember i can try it on the old pipes and let you know..... Send me a message tonight and ill go down the shed and try it out :)

Cheers heaps mate, your 34 sounds like a bit of a weapon!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hoping to push 250+ kw, need to up grade the turbo fist, Got standard turbo now

and made 213.7 rwkw on 11 psi, which i was quite happy with.

But now i think there is a leak so need to change the silicone joiners!

Pretty good result with a stock turbo, you can run 250-270 with a high flow (plus the basics like injectors and ECU etc)....

Are you sure its the joiners mate? Any shops able to do a quick smoke test for you? It would be a good idea to check before replacing too many parts :)

Yeah mine is good fun! They are a great car in general!

Most of hoses need replacing so i am just gonna go through replacing bit by bit.

Had a hole bunch of boost issues when i put an apexi AVC type r in. But once a new tune with

nistune havent had any issues until a week ago and when under hard acceleration it slow drops

boost so i have just gathers that there is a boost leak some where.

I have been looking at high flowing the turbo, but it cost as much as a new turbo.

Hmmm make sure its not your BOV too, its pretty rare but mine was leaking under full boost and when i replaced it with a GFB plumbed back it was fixed (This is pretty uncommon from what i see on here though)

But yeah i'd be checking all the clamps are tight and the hoses (which you are).... Front mount or still side mount?

I had the same issue with BOV earlier on but changed that to a GReedy BOV

I have FMIC a Blitz return flow one.

I think it is the joiners that a Fingered, been wanting to change for a while but every time i go get some,

i ask people what size to get and they always say you need to measure them, I have. tried looking it up, some say

toy use 2 1/2 joiners and stretch over, some say to use 2.5 into 2.75 and so on. So hope i can get some

good info on what to use and smash it out and see if that is the issue.

Car toys here in adelaide but they can be a bit pricey some times

I am looking a justjap.com and was hoping to get it off them.

Bit cheaper, keep getting told that turbosmart make kits but cant find them either

I cant imagine them being an off the shelf kit.... My cars done 145km and was running the stock ones up until a few thousand k's ago! I would still be triple checking other stuff ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's it. Too rich for me. I'm out. If it does start to sell in pieces, I'll probably register an interest in the diff & axles, gearbox & tailshaft, and maybe the brakes.
    • I tried my best, well I see how it is though... It's time to be ruthless! I'll up my bid with a JVC sub and an amp to run it, 8 stainless steel drink coasters with a rubber backing, and a photo of Tom Cruise. Oh, I can increase the cash portion by 20 cents if that helps. 
    • Or if it's grey, is it watery? Does it do it after you've been for like an hour long drive it will still do it, or just near the start of the trip? As GTS said, does it seem like oil (blue), water (white/grey) or fuel (black)? Sometimes the colour can be hard to see clearly too for what it is, as GTS says, what's it smell like?
    • I wonder if part of it has to do with when you've each bought the kits. I honestly have the feeling that the silicon joiners in the 2000s were actually better quality than most of what you can find these days. Even in the same brands. Everyone racing to the cheapest price while still trying to make profit means lower quality parts. For coolant, I personally would be going with rubber, OR, converting the radiator and engine to use the huge AN fittings hose for radiators.
    • If shift solenoid A is bad, that explains limp mode --- now you're in the same position as I mentioned previously, in that the next step is to confirm loom/wiring integrity from TCU to gearbox connector with a multimeter (the TCU cannot detect a broken wire, which can happen ..ie; rodent damage, loom rubbed through)...and then finally measure resistance (at the gearbox connector) for shift solenoid A ... ...once you confirm shift solenoid A is bad (open circuit, really low or greater than 40ohm resistance), then it's a job ; you have buy a complete solenoid set, get under the car and drop transmission oil pan, and remove valvebody assembly (the solenoids sit on top), replace solenoid set, and reassemble....it's not exactly a fun task, but readily doable.
×
×
  • Create New...