Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Oh yeah, another rich n retard thread.... Mate reckons it's pretty usual on a s1 25 with stock management if you gas it to hard. But I don't quiete believe him my coilpack or afm are gone aren't they? At full wrap it hits 5 grand and then feels like pushing it to keep it revving.

I've heard a lot of people and there ideas on why it does n what's causing it. But so I don't spend to much money apart from throwing a brand new afm on ( I have 3 afm's and I'm running what one felt the best) or putting splitfires on it is there a way to actually test what's causing it to hit limp mode?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412429-rich-n-retard/
Share on other sites

Sounds exactly like my S1 Rb25 before retune. It wasnt misfiring it just lost torque @ about 4500-5000 rpm,

Got it stock and was like this. SO started changing parts to see what was the problem

3inch turbo back exhaust- same

FMIC- same

Splitfires- same

EBC@ 10psi- same

retune- brought to life. Perfect motor, just a conservative S1 computer.

Not sure how you find it out without actually getting a computer and a tune. Perhaps call around the reputable shops near you. Probably plugging in a diagnostic program via consult cable should be able to tell you some things. Prob see the timing getting pulled out of it...

Not saying it is certainly this on yours but its possible. Check all the bits first.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412429-rich-n-retard/#findComment-6597502
Share on other sites

Oh yeah, another rich n retard thread.... Mate reckons it's pretty usual on a s1 25 with stock management if you gas it to hard. But I don't quiete believe him my coilpack or afm are gone aren't they?

What makes you think your mate is wrong?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412429-rich-n-retard/#findComment-6597772
Share on other sites

My motor is completely stock I don't know who you're saying has a z32 afm and rb20 computer but not me, not anymore. The afm's hitting 4.67 volts if you just jump on the throttle hitting around 4700-5000 and it just takes for ever to rev as it is pulling timing. I have had the data logger on it and I know for a fact that it's pulling timing when this happens. If you take it to 4-4500 and slowly wind the pedal in she'll pull to 7 quiete easily. I have a boost bleed that is set at 8 pounds and is not creeping. And when it gets hot the idle got crappy and stalled a few times at lights on the way home today, I did like 180kms on it was fine til the halfway point when i stopped in at a mates when I left his it'd start catch stall til I gave it a little rev. I think it's the afm personally but I asked the question so I could get other peoples opinions.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412429-rich-n-retard/#findComment-6597773
Share on other sites

What makes you think your mate is wrong?

I just don't understand how a factory built and tuned motor can't go full throttle over 5 it sounds fricking stupid to me, plus a mate has a s1 33 and before he went adaptronic it didn't seem to do it in his!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412429-rich-n-retard/#findComment-6597775
Share on other sites

How's that clear? Has he mentioned something in another thread? Reading this thread it sounds stock?

Because, in the same post he said "Not sure how you find it out without actually getting a computer and a tune". So that looks to me like he knows that tuning an R33 involves getting a different ECU.

Edited by GTSBoy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412429-rich-n-retard/#findComment-6597790
Share on other sites

Ohhhhhhhhhh so did I lol.

OP, assuming you have a stock turbo, 8 psi SHOULD be fine, but where are you getting that reading from? It's a bit hit and miss with R&R, some ECU's do it lower than others and some are fine running much higher boost, so it's definitely still possible that it's R&R.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412429-rich-n-retard/#findComment-6597845
Share on other sites

Does it feel like this?

17052008009.jpg

17052008010.jpg

If so, lower the boost a bit and see if it goes away.

If it's misfiring then it'll be coilpacks or plugs.

Yeah that's exactly what it looks like! But if you slowly bring it upto about 4 you can then gun it and it'll pull to 7.5

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412429-rich-n-retard/#findComment-6598131
Share on other sites

haha, yeah its a nistuned Z32 ecu.

Probably only clear to people who know about these cars and the untunability of the R33 ecu.

yeah it is a crack up how poorly the stocker goes. If it wasnt for the compression test i did (175-176 across all 6) i would have thought something was wrong with the motor. But doing a bit of research on the issue on threads like this i worked out it should be just a lame ecu.

Which all things being equal was a good thing for me as it mean that this 17yr old car had never been able to be pushed hard.

Cant imagine how someone would have bought it from the factory like that and tolerated it. If i bought a brand new GTST n it made power like that i would have put it back through the dealership door kamikazi style...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412429-rich-n-retard/#findComment-6598324
Share on other sites

It only happens when you modify it and raise the airflow higher than standard, it'll never happen with a 100% standard car, which is the way Nissan wanted it.

OP, lower the boost a bit and it should go away.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412429-rich-n-retard/#findComment-6598435
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah it factory manual not sure about ratio but it looks like there’s been some work at the rear 
    • so I need a new speedo cable 
    • Throwing my spoon to the soup here a bit.  When I installed a 044 back in 2012, along with the direct power mod, the car became very difficult to start. To a point I burned one starter motor as I was late for work and tried to get the thing going. With some tuning and careful use of gas pedal when cranking it became bearable. Trying to make this short as possible, but the 044 died after 2-3 years, after which I went with an AEM 320lph pump, which also died after about 4 years to my dismay. After that I went with a Nismo pump, and while trying diagnose an emissions problem, I noticed for the first time that my fuel pressure was 5bar/72psi on idle, and that removing the vacuum line did nothing. After monitoring the situation, and removing the direct power feed and going back to FPCM in attempts to remedy it, I noticed there was fuel in the pressure regulator vac line. Kept the FPCM, installed AEM external regu and the car became sooo much better in every way, including starting. And I had driven it like it was for 11 years.. Anyway, I agree these are likely two different problems, and the FP problem you just haven't noticed before. I do not know much about haltecs, but what first came to mind was the CAS, which probably is not there any more. So how is the wiring from haltec to gauge cluster? How is the battery voltage and alternator?
    • Your car was auto before? You have different diff ratio (auto vs manual i think? or n/a and turbo?)
    • +1 for getting a screen off alibaba, CarPlay/Android Auto is vastly better than whatever navigation cars had 10 years ago. I got an Android screen for my 2015 BMW, huge difference. Fully compatible with factory stuff including iDrive controls.
×
×
  • Create New...