Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Oh yeah, another rich n retard thread.... Mate reckons it's pretty usual on a s1 25 with stock management if you gas it to hard. But I don't quiete believe him my coilpack or afm are gone aren't they? At full wrap it hits 5 grand and then feels like pushing it to keep it revving.

I've heard a lot of people and there ideas on why it does n what's causing it. But so I don't spend to much money apart from throwing a brand new afm on ( I have 3 afm's and I'm running what one felt the best) or putting splitfires on it is there a way to actually test what's causing it to hit limp mode?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412429-rich-n-retard/
Share on other sites

Sounds exactly like my S1 Rb25 before retune. It wasnt misfiring it just lost torque @ about 4500-5000 rpm,

Got it stock and was like this. SO started changing parts to see what was the problem

3inch turbo back exhaust- same

FMIC- same

Splitfires- same

EBC@ 10psi- same

retune- brought to life. Perfect motor, just a conservative S1 computer.

Not sure how you find it out without actually getting a computer and a tune. Perhaps call around the reputable shops near you. Probably plugging in a diagnostic program via consult cable should be able to tell you some things. Prob see the timing getting pulled out of it...

Not saying it is certainly this on yours but its possible. Check all the bits first.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412429-rich-n-retard/#findComment-6597502
Share on other sites

Oh yeah, another rich n retard thread.... Mate reckons it's pretty usual on a s1 25 with stock management if you gas it to hard. But I don't quiete believe him my coilpack or afm are gone aren't they?

What makes you think your mate is wrong?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412429-rich-n-retard/#findComment-6597772
Share on other sites

My motor is completely stock I don't know who you're saying has a z32 afm and rb20 computer but not me, not anymore. The afm's hitting 4.67 volts if you just jump on the throttle hitting around 4700-5000 and it just takes for ever to rev as it is pulling timing. I have had the data logger on it and I know for a fact that it's pulling timing when this happens. If you take it to 4-4500 and slowly wind the pedal in she'll pull to 7 quiete easily. I have a boost bleed that is set at 8 pounds and is not creeping. And when it gets hot the idle got crappy and stalled a few times at lights on the way home today, I did like 180kms on it was fine til the halfway point when i stopped in at a mates when I left his it'd start catch stall til I gave it a little rev. I think it's the afm personally but I asked the question so I could get other peoples opinions.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412429-rich-n-retard/#findComment-6597773
Share on other sites

What makes you think your mate is wrong?

I just don't understand how a factory built and tuned motor can't go full throttle over 5 it sounds fricking stupid to me, plus a mate has a s1 33 and before he went adaptronic it didn't seem to do it in his!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412429-rich-n-retard/#findComment-6597775
Share on other sites

How's that clear? Has he mentioned something in another thread? Reading this thread it sounds stock?

Because, in the same post he said "Not sure how you find it out without actually getting a computer and a tune". So that looks to me like he knows that tuning an R33 involves getting a different ECU.

Edited by GTSBoy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412429-rich-n-retard/#findComment-6597790
Share on other sites

Ohhhhhhhhhh so did I lol.

OP, assuming you have a stock turbo, 8 psi SHOULD be fine, but where are you getting that reading from? It's a bit hit and miss with R&R, some ECU's do it lower than others and some are fine running much higher boost, so it's definitely still possible that it's R&R.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412429-rich-n-retard/#findComment-6597845
Share on other sites

Does it feel like this?

17052008009.jpg

17052008010.jpg

If so, lower the boost a bit and see if it goes away.

If it's misfiring then it'll be coilpacks or plugs.

Yeah that's exactly what it looks like! But if you slowly bring it upto about 4 you can then gun it and it'll pull to 7.5

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412429-rich-n-retard/#findComment-6598131
Share on other sites

haha, yeah its a nistuned Z32 ecu.

Probably only clear to people who know about these cars and the untunability of the R33 ecu.

yeah it is a crack up how poorly the stocker goes. If it wasnt for the compression test i did (175-176 across all 6) i would have thought something was wrong with the motor. But doing a bit of research on the issue on threads like this i worked out it should be just a lame ecu.

Which all things being equal was a good thing for me as it mean that this 17yr old car had never been able to be pushed hard.

Cant imagine how someone would have bought it from the factory like that and tolerated it. If i bought a brand new GTST n it made power like that i would have put it back through the dealership door kamikazi style...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412429-rich-n-retard/#findComment-6598324
Share on other sites

It only happens when you modify it and raise the airflow higher than standard, it'll never happen with a 100% standard car, which is the way Nissan wanted it.

OP, lower the boost a bit and it should go away.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412429-rich-n-retard/#findComment-6598435
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pretty much what you'd expect at that power level. Hypergear turbo, long list of supporting mods, full Haltech catalogue, etc.  I'd say this goes for most drivers, suspension is still a dark art for most people. And it's really hard to convince someone how much better their setup could be...  
    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...