Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No worries i'll just take the tee bleed off and run it straight to the manifold I thought 8 psi would be fine. This is the first stock stock ecu I've used the rb20 used to run a nistune so I guess I'll have to save up for a power fc.

Edited by skitzone80b

Ur car is piece of crap that sound like it has had so many electrical chop and changes that it prob has no idea what to think any more if your gunna do something do it properly and not a home hillbilly job talking the Talk one thing but relating that to real issues is another stop being a try hard home mechanic with MATES and take it to a shop and get it fixed properly I feel sorry for the car it doesn't deserve what I've done to it

Lol. This guy.

Iv read many of these threads over the years being on sau . your probably better searching and you will find many answers.

what gap are you running with your plugs? higher boost = tighter gap , which should be 0.8 , using 10 - 12 psi . if not your car will feel un responsive , which never the less may not be an R & R problem which your thinking . i had the problem earlier this year when my car was off the road for few months , i done a fair few mods , from intercooler to plenum etc . raised boost and she felt like there was a brick under the pedal from 5 + . soon after remembered what i did in the past with other skylines iv had . as soon as i re gapped and threw in some new plugs , she really performed and felt good

Check various smaller fixes before you go spending cash . But in most cases , you start modifying a car it will run R & R unless you get it tuned , so really pointless thread trying to sus much out , because as others have said a tune is in order and get it done properly . pfc or nistune or something , and a dyno will show whats going on

Yeah thanks for that sky I understand the modifying the car will make it hit R&R I just assumed that 1 psi more , a catback exh and a front mount was still stock ya know . Plugs are gapped at 0.8 didn't realise that wasn't stock it's what they 20 plugs were set to and what the boys said they had there 25's set to. Soon you could slowly wind it on and it'd be fine I thought the afm might be pooey soon when you just stand on it and load it right up it only hits 4.67v. I'm just going to wait til next weekend and replace the cooler piping as it all came from a donor car n it was a little mismatched so I'll try rule out all vac leaks with that and remove the boost tee.

Edited by skitzone80b

And JJ I'm really surprised to hear that man everything else I got is carby n I always thought that if ya running a dead stock set up with the factory fuel injection system to run that set up it would be fairly accurate. Did the rb20's have this issue aswell or is it an s1 25 thing?

i wouldnt go that far with replacing intercooler piping . just do a boost leak test , its quite easy to make up a little contraption that hooks up to the turbo , pump about 15 psi into the system , get some soapy water in a spray bottle and find your leaks. you wont believe how many hoses have cracks that you cant see . i replaced about 6 hoses in my car , and tightened loose seals. it was at least 20% more responsive once fixed , as i had some pretty bad leaks . thats just another option to perform which may help the car from being slugish . at the end of the day all these little fixes make a major difference .

and a cheap boost controller will cause issues , leaks , spikes , if you ran it from factory solenoid itll definitly show a difference if there was a problem

Nah man literally I think two pipes have the bead at the end to help the seal of the silicone and it does need some new joiners I think honestly I'd be better off spending the $170 on just a piping kit with a whole heaps of new bends new joiners and good clamps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pretty much what you'd expect at that power level. Hypergear turbo, long list of supporting mods, full Haltech catalogue, etc.  I'd say this goes for most drivers, suspension is still a dark art for most people. And it's really hard to convince someone how much better their setup could be...  
    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...