Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No worries i'll just take the tee bleed off and run it straight to the manifold I thought 8 psi would be fine. This is the first stock stock ecu I've used the rb20 used to run a nistune so I guess I'll have to save up for a power fc.

Edited by skitzone80b

Ur car is piece of crap that sound like it has had so many electrical chop and changes that it prob has no idea what to think any more if your gunna do something do it properly and not a home hillbilly job talking the Talk one thing but relating that to real issues is another stop being a try hard home mechanic with MATES and take it to a shop and get it fixed properly I feel sorry for the car it doesn't deserve what I've done to it

Lol. This guy.

Iv read many of these threads over the years being on sau . your probably better searching and you will find many answers.

what gap are you running with your plugs? higher boost = tighter gap , which should be 0.8 , using 10 - 12 psi . if not your car will feel un responsive , which never the less may not be an R & R problem which your thinking . i had the problem earlier this year when my car was off the road for few months , i done a fair few mods , from intercooler to plenum etc . raised boost and she felt like there was a brick under the pedal from 5 + . soon after remembered what i did in the past with other skylines iv had . as soon as i re gapped and threw in some new plugs , she really performed and felt good

Check various smaller fixes before you go spending cash . But in most cases , you start modifying a car it will run R & R unless you get it tuned , so really pointless thread trying to sus much out , because as others have said a tune is in order and get it done properly . pfc or nistune or something , and a dyno will show whats going on

Yeah thanks for that sky I understand the modifying the car will make it hit R&R I just assumed that 1 psi more , a catback exh and a front mount was still stock ya know . Plugs are gapped at 0.8 didn't realise that wasn't stock it's what they 20 plugs were set to and what the boys said they had there 25's set to. Soon you could slowly wind it on and it'd be fine I thought the afm might be pooey soon when you just stand on it and load it right up it only hits 4.67v. I'm just going to wait til next weekend and replace the cooler piping as it all came from a donor car n it was a little mismatched so I'll try rule out all vac leaks with that and remove the boost tee.

Edited by skitzone80b

And JJ I'm really surprised to hear that man everything else I got is carby n I always thought that if ya running a dead stock set up with the factory fuel injection system to run that set up it would be fairly accurate. Did the rb20's have this issue aswell or is it an s1 25 thing?

i wouldnt go that far with replacing intercooler piping . just do a boost leak test , its quite easy to make up a little contraption that hooks up to the turbo , pump about 15 psi into the system , get some soapy water in a spray bottle and find your leaks. you wont believe how many hoses have cracks that you cant see . i replaced about 6 hoses in my car , and tightened loose seals. it was at least 20% more responsive once fixed , as i had some pretty bad leaks . thats just another option to perform which may help the car from being slugish . at the end of the day all these little fixes make a major difference .

and a cheap boost controller will cause issues , leaks , spikes , if you ran it from factory solenoid itll definitly show a difference if there was a problem

Nah man literally I think two pipes have the bead at the end to help the seal of the silicone and it does need some new joiners I think honestly I'd be better off spending the $170 on just a piping kit with a whole heaps of new bends new joiners and good clamps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah it factory manual not sure about ratio but it looks like there’s been some work at the rear 
    • so I need a new speedo cable 
    • Throwing my spoon to the soup here a bit.  When I installed a 044 back in 2012, along with the direct power mod, the car became very difficult to start. To a point I burned one starter motor as I was late for work and tried to get the thing going. With some tuning and careful use of gas pedal when cranking it became bearable. Trying to make this short as possible, but the 044 died after 2-3 years, after which I went with an AEM 320lph pump, which also died after about 4 years to my dismay. After that I went with a Nismo pump, and while trying diagnose an emissions problem, I noticed for the first time that my fuel pressure was 5bar/72psi on idle, and that removing the vacuum line did nothing. After monitoring the situation, and removing the direct power feed and going back to FPCM in attempts to remedy it, I noticed there was fuel in the pressure regulator vac line. Kept the FPCM, installed AEM external regu and the car became sooo much better in every way, including starting. And I had driven it like it was for 11 years.. Anyway, I agree these are likely two different problems, and the FP problem you just haven't noticed before. I do not know much about haltecs, but what first came to mind was the CAS, which probably is not there any more. So how is the wiring from haltec to gauge cluster? How is the battery voltage and alternator?
    • Your car was auto before? You have different diff ratio (auto vs manual i think? or n/a and turbo?)
    • +1 for getting a screen off alibaba, CarPlay/Android Auto is vastly better than whatever navigation cars had 10 years ago. I got an Android screen for my 2015 BMW, huge difference. Fully compatible with factory stuff including iDrive controls.
×
×
  • Create New...