Jump to content
SAU Community

Max Amps Pulled From Battery / Cable Gauge Required To Relocate Battery To Boot

JustinP

By JustinP,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

JustinP Mentor

JustinP

Posted
Posted

I searched for a DIY guide on relocating the battery to the boot, and surprisingly couldn't find anything!

Can anyone advise on the minimum cable gauge required to relocate the battery to the boot? I have a heap of 8AWG cable (61Amp capable) which I realise is probably not going to be sufficient, but I am just wondering if I run 2 of the lines if it will be enough?

Cheers :cheers:

Justin

Stevoss Community Regular

Stevoss

Posted
Posted

depending on the quality of the cable i recommend 2awg as a minimum preferably larger,

i measure a starter on a v6 commodore 160amps on cranking. which has lower compression so i assume less work would be needed to crank.

JustinP Mentor

JustinP

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheer's for the responses :no: Looks like even 2 x my 8AWG wire is not going to cut it!!!

I think I will leave the battery relocation for another time.

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

2ga is more than plenty, it is also the same as the -ve line from a mig welder. Hit up BOC gas and just buy some welding cables, works out cheaper than 2ga audio cable :)

SiR_RB Grand Master

SiR_RB

Posted
Posted

My Gtr had the battery relocated to boot, used 2gauge cable, never have a problem with voltage drop or any other electrical problems (apparently these cars are voltage sensitive)

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

6 Cyl Starter motors usually draw between 200-400 amps. No amplifier wire is going to cut it. You need minimum 2 gauge battery/starter cable. It's about $10/m at repco from memory

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

6 Cyl Starter motors usually draw between 200-400 amps. No amplifier wire is going to cut it. You need minimum 2 gauge battery/starter cable. It's about $10/m at repco from memory

welding cable works out a tad cheaper if you have a trade account :)

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Also don't forget your starter motor will draw more current in winter and also when the battery is lower in voltage. You need to account for these factors so you don't catch things on fire. Safety first :)

Deano 1 Mentor

Deano 1

Posted
Posted

I used 0 gauge audio cable. And I ran both earth and positive. I didn't want to earth though the body. U can't go wrong with over earthing.

Cost alil bit, but I hate wiring probs so I just over killed it so there won't b issues.

  • 4 weeks later...
Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

What are people using for distribution blocks once they have relocated the battery? Having a bit of a look at options for such things at the moment.

stereo components really.. you just need a good ANL fuse & holder that that's it.. don't waste your time with anything else :)

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

What are people using for distribution blocks once they have relocated the battery? Having a bit of a look at options for such things at the moment.

Custom made...

Neutral bar with stand offs in a jiffy box.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • DRoc81
      Shifting questions

      By DRoc81 · Posted

      This was a huge help.  We followed the steps,  although shifting into 2nd was actually into 3rd for us,  and 1st was into 2nd ( steps 9 and 11) .  The long flash was the 4th flash.  So shift solenoid A is possibly the culprit.  Is this inside the transmission itself? Or is it accessible by just front the pan? Or is it bolted to the outside of the transmission?  Thanos for your help everyone
    • sunsetR33
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Can you enlighten me on your best practice regarding these hoses? I don't wanna make the same mistake if you already got a better solution.
    • sunsetR33
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I have some silicon hoses already, for example engine to watercooler. But yeah, I get the sentiment. The lower intercooler silicon hose is drippy too, despite not being very old. Does anyone except Nismo make these same lines out of rubber? Long term I think they'd be the better replacement, especially since the car won't live as hard a life anymore as in the past nor be driven as often.
    • sunsetR33
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I know most issues are just age related. But for example the turbo oil drains, there is dash adapters for these and you can just make a braided teflon line for them and (probably) never have them leak again. Also not terribly expensive. Can you even get the factory hardlines from new? Or are they repairable if they break?
    • sunsetR33
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I know it'd be much much easier with the tool. I hope I can find one that won't take 3 weeks to get to me an isn't a "Asian models kit" that has tons of (to me) useless adapters for a load of cash.   It's a summer project/fun car. I do wanna enjoy it, without endless downtime over and over. So yeah I would even go and buy an engine crane + stand to save myself the trouble of hard to reach or unreachable places going bad later on. Would also be a good opportunity to put on a Fluidamper, renew the mains seals and stuff like that. I have some money on the side that I can use for that, what I wouldn't want to or be able to do is let everything be done by a shop or have my engine completely rebuild right now. I intend to do most of the "doable" jobs myself. Pulling an engine can't be that hard, can it?
×
×
  • Create New...