Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

im in the works of planning a 25/34 build to go into my 34 GTT, im sourcing parts prices etc but one thing that im questioning is the neo head. Ive built a 25/30 for my 32 using a 33 series 2 head which i got the water gallery welded, and a external oil feed for the lifters is the neo head requiring the same work? im sure the water gallery has to be welded but is there anything different between a neo head opposed to the 33 head that needs to be addressed for this conversion??

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

would it be worth using a 33 series 2 head? i assume the majority of the 34 wiring harness is the same as the 33?

i had a 25/30 in my 32 originally had a 25 in it, and when i got it tuned the tuners said it had a 34 wiring harness

Link to comment
Share on other sites

would it be worth using a 33 series 2 head? i assume the majority of the 34 wiring harness is the same as the 33?

i had a 25/30 in my 32 originally had a 25 in it, and when i got it tuned the tuners said it had a 34 wiring harness

34 head is far better, just allow for the 34 when choosing pistons etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

what do you mean by allow for the 34?

What Jonathon said - the Neo head has a smaller combustion chamber than the R33 so you need to take that into account when calculating your compression ratio. Should be fine with the extra capacity of the 3.4 block - Neo is the superior head. Look forward to seeing the result!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The lifters will be fine. Just use the correct oil restrictors. We converted our r33 s2 head to solids and I made two 1.1mm restrictors using m8 grub screws. Has worked fine so far. This is on a spool rb34 stroker also.

As they said already you just need to cc your chambers and get the pistons to suit so your compression doesnt go sky high. Otherwise no worries!

Be prepared for a nice fat torque and power curve. From our old rb30 our whole power curve moved to the left by a good 1000rpm and we picked up something like 160hp more through the midrange. Makes the car so much nicer to drive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would guess that you would want pistons to give you higher compression with the extra capacity of the 3400cc but you can't guess - you need to measure :unsure:

What oil pump are you going to use?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

what is the approximate additional cost in block prep to fit the 34 crank in? the spool site mentions there is some minor modifications required to make it fit.

i'm looking at a 26/34 conversion into my 32 GTR down the track (when i get the $$ for it) was weighing up a 2.8 stroker but leaning towards going all out with the 34 since im more looking at low end torque and dont want to wait till 4.5k rpm for boost.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ahhh ok that makes sense im getting a spool kit for my build, out of curiosity what did you set your compression ratio at?

thinking of using a JUN pump

Mine is a bargain basement build with stock pistons resulting in about 8.2:1 CR :/

As yours will be fully forged etc something well north of 9:1 or even more if you are going to run E85 would be good!

I have an N1 pump but don't limiter bash and have 7000 max rpm.

Jun sounds good - Tomei may be better but people swear by Nitto pumps - no experience of them myself!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

what is the approximate additional cost in block prep to fit the 34 crank in? the spool site mentions there is some minor modifications required to make it fit.

i'm looking at a 26/34 conversion into my 32 GTR down the track (when i get the $$ for it) was weighing up a 2.8 stroker but leaning towards going all out with the 34 since im more looking at low end torque and dont want to wait till 4.5k rpm for boost.

The pictures on their site show a small amount ground away for the extra clearance needed for the 3.4 - looks like a very small job - less than 15min labour.

Go the 34 - I want to see more results!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The pictures on their site show a small amount ground away for the extra clearance needed for the 3.4 - looks like a very small job - less than 15min labour.

Go the 34 - I want to see more results!!

spool RB32 don't need any clearance and unlike the nitto RB32 stroker the spool on is a 3.2l
Link to comment
Share on other sites

spool RB32 don't need any clearance

So? The extra capacity of the 3.4 comes from a longer stroke. Longer stroke means a larger diameter crank, which naturally needs more room to spin around.... What's your point?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So? The extra capacity of the 3.4 comes from a longer stroke. Longer stroke means a larger diameter crank, which naturally needs more room to spin around.... What's your point?

was just saying some people don't like machining the block for Clearance as it weakness the block a bit Edited by MRHD66
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The amount of clearancing is piddly squat. Only the first three cylinders where the oil tube runs and then a little around the base of the bore on each cylinder.

It is quite the small job!

sweet as
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It will be interesting to see more results, I've only ever come across the spool s15 dyno graph. It's a good thing. Is there any other 3.4L results you guy know of?

I like the idea of the 3.4, considering its really the same cost as going 2.8 from a rb26, obviously exept the mods to fit an rb 30 in your car.

What rpm are you looking to turn this to?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Great info @tidi0x  Will definitely be handy for others and maybe me if I decide to keep the shit box H pattern.
    • Bumping this up one last time.... I wanted to follow up on the clutch slave issue. I realized that what the issue comes down to is the pocket is flat milled, and the cylinder does not want rest flat. So in order to mount it correctly you will need to make a spacer for the fingers so the cylinder is floating. I took two plates of aluminum, drilled some holes and was good. I did still need to make the relief cuts in the bell housing, as even with the spacer the bleed section still interferes. The OE bell housing the mounting holes are raised from the housing.       
    • If the event in USA goes ahead will be interesting as it seems the rules will get more cars over here. Apparently the track is laguna seca too. Yeah s15, if I get a the lower dash trims, centre console and change front cross member to standard LCA position will fit clubsprint. See how rules are as i would rather do complete widebody than a bolt on flare to run the 295 with proper clearance.
    • If the car is legal height I can't see it being an issue. Found a thread on reddit that might offer some insight.   I got a ticket from a copper in QLD for my S15 being too low. They had this wheel thing on a stick that they put under the car and it hit my exhaust. Anyhow went to an exhaust shop to get the exhaust tucked up/hung a little higher and I wound the coilovers up a smidge. Don't think I even had to go back to the police station unlike when I got defected for having a carbon bonnet when I brought the S15 from the ACT to QLD and had to replace it and then rock up at a police station and have a yougish female officer who knew nothing about cars confirm that I had changed bonnets. Should have just painted the carbon bonnet yellow to match the rest of the car lol
    • Id like to race in the US i think alot of those track would suit me   For the s15? Youd be stuck between club sprint and the new Open Am wouldnt you depending on how much interior you have left in
×
×
  • Create New...