**japan** 18" 3 Piece Work Meister S1 18X9.5 +24 (All Around) 5X114.3
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For cross referencing purposes, see this thread for another option.
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Another 30 months later and I have bitten the bullet and put these into my car. I got the chrome blingy ones because, after consideration of the black alternative, I realised that the chrome ones were by far the closest in appearance to the originals, and I thought that the black ones wouldn't look as good on a white car. And look good they actually do. There is a tiny little problem with the HB projectors making it look a little cross-eyed compared to the wider eyed stare of the original projectors. But they certainly do not look like they are weirdly out of place. They are also spectacularly bright and sharp compared to the dull, vague output of the original projectors. An unexpected outcome is that when on high beam, all 4 projectors are on. There must be a cross connection inside and a diode. The low beams do dim a tiny bit when the highs come on, so the extra drop across a diode would make sense. That, and the tiny, scrawny little wires they provide for the 3 pin connector. The return current for both HB and LB has to come back through the earth wire, which is the same thin little thing that the other two have. So there is probably quite the voltage drop on that wire. I measured ~4A current on each LED before I installed them. 8A through skinny wire is...dubious. And the other weird effect is that my set of 4x relays that I installed behind the original headlights with fat direct battery feed simply would not allow the LEDs to switch on. I don't know if I got something wrong in my head when I built the adapter harnesses needed to allow me to keep the the relays, or if there is some weirdness caused by the internal wiring of the LEDs. I shall have to look into it again later. Not eager to pull the front end apart again soon. Yes, I'd forgotten that to get the headlights out of the car you have to remove the bumper skin, which is an extra hassle.
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By Murray_Calavera · Posted
Yep, see attached Yep. For example, you buy a Haltech ECU and upload the Haltech base map, the car will start and feel ok while driving however will have had 0 tuning done (provided the car is essentially stock, the base map will line up). If you get a few seconds spare, please remove the passenger kick panel and solve this mystery for me lol. -
I'm just relaying what my mechanic told me. In my other post i talked about sonething similiar but some mechanics said to me that black smoke "can" be normal. But I'm out of my depth here. Ecu is usually under the driver footwell? Or ive seen it sometimes on passenger footwells. Couldn't see it either. If it hasn't been tuned, is it even possible for a car to run well (meaning it feels normal when driving, not thinking about A/F ratios and such) if it hasn't been tuned on a aftermarket ecu? Either way needs a tune, I'll leave it to the professionals.
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