Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking at the hicas dash light is getting old and I don't want to have to explain the process at rego inspections .

I searched and found this thread which reckons you go to the Hicas computer (R33 GTS25T) under the rear parcel shelf and cut the Green wire with the White trace .

http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105358&page=2

Has anyone tried this here and found it works . If so it has to be easier than stuffing around under the dash to get rid of the light .

Thanks in advance , cheers Adrian .

  • 2 weeks later...

But if you pull the dash light out, It won't tell you if there aren't any other faults with the power steering. eg if the reservoir is low on fluid the light will come on.

Open the bonnet and check it?

But if you pull the dash light out, It won't tell you if there aren't any other faults with the power steering. eg if the reservoir is low on fluid the light will come on.

Kidding right?

The light is already on due to HICAS removal... is the light going to change colour or get brighter when a fault happens else where?

  • 2 weeks later...

Tomei Hicas lock kit is another consideration, will also allow you to return to stock fairly easily should you require.

I'm just getting into Skylines and picked up an R33 GTSt for a great price off my brother as it has HICAS issues. I have bought the TOMEI kit but am wondering if it works as a "quick-fix" or is it only useful if your HICAS was functioning correctly?

I'm just getting into Skylines and picked up an R33 GTSt for a great price off my brother as it has HICAS issues. I have bought the TOMEI kit but am wondering if it works as a "quick-fix" or is it only useful if your HICAS was functioning correctly?

Afaik only really useful if your Hicas is working.

Save ur money and buy a drift works hicas eliminator kit from cartel online. It will eliminate all ur hicas problems and I'll reduce the weight of ur car

From what I have read this won't pass a roadworthy inspection though?

haha, Bit hard to 'save money' when I have already bought the TOMEI Eliminator. Ah well, will give it a go, since I've already bought it, and if it fails, will have to try the Driftworks kit. However, will this still result in having the HICAS light on? and perhaps power-steering issues? Perhaps combined with the electronic part of the TOMEI kit this could work (Or at least use the TOMEI just to get through the roadworthy then use the Driftworks kit)?

Not really worried about saving weight anyway.

Edited by falconhoon

Afaik only really useful if your Hicas is working.

Found this on another forum, describes HICAS problems that were solved with TOMEI Lock kit, so at least it is a little bit promising.

But then again other people in that forum just recommend the Driftworks kit... Damn advanced technology in older cars, but can you do hey? Will get it sorted one way or the other.

03-10-2010, 02:14 PM

my hicas used to do weird things to me as well once I hit 80 km/h. the steering wheel would turn a good 40 degrees just to keep the car straight. I was pretty much crab walking down the highway. for a while I kept checking everything out and still hadn't found a solution. eventually I just installed a Tomei hicas lock kit and was done with it.

my advice would be to lock up the hicas and not spend hours trying to find out what the problem is.

http://www.gtrpwr.co....php/t-921.html

Might just get the ECUTALK Consult/USB cable and figure out what is causing the trouble if I have too.

Edited by falconhoon

Looking at the hicas dash light is getting old and I don't want to have to explain the process at rego inspections .

I searched and found this thread which reckons you go to the Hicas computer (R33 GTS25T) under the rear parcel shelf and cut the Green wire with the White trace .

http://www.skylineow...t=105358&page=2

Has anyone tried this here and found it works . If so it has to be easier than stuffing around under the dash to get rid of the light .

Thanks in advance , cheers Adrian .

to answer your question this works a treat. have done it on several of my cars including r32's :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Half anticipating the next question then: I have two magnets stuck in my oil pan. What should I do? 
    • If it's magnetic what is stopping you from using a magnet on a thin wire from fishing it out?
    • Those 2 solenoids in that assembly I mention, are the PWM solenoids for torque converter lock-up clutch & EPC (line pressure control) ~ when most folks hear of 'solenoid failure', the tendency is to think electrical failure...but fact of the matter is, especially wrt the EPC solenoid (which is moving/running all the time), you can have an electrically 'good' solenoid, that's absolutely broken/worn out mechanically inside...ie; valve plunger return spring rubbing against spring retainer plate, lowering preload pressure.. ...and the solenoid armature extension limit spring wafer with bad wear/broken off petals... ...and if there's ever been any metal flying about, damage to the valve plunger end itself... ...the stuff one never really sees, unless you go the whole 10yards trying to answer the question "why is my line pressure screwy, but TCU isn't flagging any EPC solenoid fault?"...and carefully dissect the solenoid. Worst (and most probable) scenario is when the plate spring petals break off, they get held by the magnetic flux, get mashed up by the armature into little bits, which end up in the space between the armature & shading core bore, and things get stuck or randomly jam up, and your line pressure goes flat and doesn't change...and the TCU never sees it, as it doesn't actively monitor LP... ..then it gets into insidious land, if you end up with lower than expected line pressure...lets say high clutch..and the lower pressure causes it to slip ~ when I say 'slip', think say 2000rpm on the drive plates, and 1800rpm on the driven plates, because the slip is making them under-rotate by 200rpm ; you get all the usual nasties like heat and band/clutch wear, but even if it's only 20rpm slip the same thing happens...and... you'll hardly ever pick this up driving the thing with the torque converter active as it effectively masks these sorts of slippages that are line pressure related ...(the newer TCUs can detect clutch slip rate)...just  FYI as it were...  
    • There's nothing that some paddle pop sticks and extra cable ties can't fix.
    • Hey guys, so Golebys has good prices on Bosch injectors, and also sell an adaptor to go from 1/2 length injector to standard with the Nissan 10.5mm top seal.  Does anyone know if that adaptor is to suit the 14mm or 11mm injector tops?  And re. The bottom seal, to suit my standard RB20 intake, would I be right in saying I can just slip the 14mm square section O ring over the bottom of the new injector and done? Thanks in advance guy, Cheers, Rowdy
×
×
  • Create New...