Jump to content
SAU Community

For The Love Of God I Can't See! (Headlight Issue)

DaveWatson

By DaveWatson,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

DaveWatson Contributor

DaveWatson

Posted
Posted

R32 GTR

So after searching around for awhile, I cannot find any other threads that cover the issue I'm having

(At least none that people actually posted fixes in anyway)

So basically, As long as I can remember, my right low beam headlight has always been dicky, turning on and off for no obvious reason. Not that big of a deal, good ol' Lefty will keep me goin'.

My dial switch had failed long ago with the previous owner, who had simply attached the low beams switch to a toggle. This had been working fine for nearly two years until one day, BOTH low beams stopped working.

I still retain parkers (Separate circuit I know) and strangely High Beams. This suggests to me that it could be one of the relays is not making the connection for the low beams. Really want to solve this issue as I don't want to drive around using my high beams for the rest of my days.

I've tested continuity throughout the entire system and seem to have 1/1 connection. which just confuses me more!

Please MTV SAU Fix My Ride!

But seriously, for the good of me and the retinas of other road users, I need to work this out.

Any info people can offer would be really appreciated.

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

A friend of mine used to have a 32 and we sspent a while one night with an issue with his lights. Think it was similar. Only 1 low beam or both low beams were off but high beams worked. Ended up being something in the indicator stalk (high beam part of it of course)

From what I know they go bad with age because of the way the are designed

Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted

Same issue on my 32 GTR. I bought 2 x 2nd hand replacement switches and both were similarily farked.

I was also told it could be stalk related but in my case it wasnt.

If it's already rewired the low beam to another switch I'd take a second look at wiring, fuse or the brown resistor/relay in the main fuse box in the engine bay.

The only thing that fixed it for me was replacing the dial switch on the dash with a new one from RHD.

D.I.Y. Mik Veteran

D.I.Y. Mik

Posted
Posted

I read about a mod too keep the low on when switching to high.

Basically join the high and low wires near the plug behind the dash.

Ps my 32 lights are a nightmare, thinking about making a whole new circuit just for them. i just cant work out wtf is going on with the hi-lo wiring.

Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted

I read about a mod too keep the low on when switching to high.

Basically join the high and low wires near the plug behind the dash.

Ps my 32 lights are a nightmare, thinking about making a whole new circuit just for them. i just cant work out wtf is going on with the hi-lo wiring.

LOL - The only thing that fixed it for me was replacing the dial switch on the dash with a new one from RHD.

jiffo Mentor

jiffo

Posted
Posted

Sounds like the high/low dipper switch. They give trouble with age and can be repaired if you're keen.

But unless you address the woeful wiring design it will fail again.

These cars switch full amperage at the high/low dipper switch, it's not switched by relays.

When guys fit 100w bulbs or even worse, mod the dip switch to switch low on with high there's not much hope.

To fix the car you need to modify the factory wiring and install relays to do the switching. Then your dip switch will only be switching the trigger load, which is tiny.

Also fit a diode to trigger low to stay on with high.

You'll see a vast improvement in the lights as voltage drop is eliminated.

Fit 4500K max HID's to low beam if you have the projector style and with low + high the highway illumination is excellent.

Retain conventional halogen bulbs for high so they switch on quickly unlike the HID's.

Here's my fuse box showing the extra relays and diode.

Job isn't difficult, probably half a day, you need to source factory relays so it all looks the part.

post-73571-0-62825800-1352112910_thumb.jpg

DaveWatson Contributor

DaveWatson

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Jiffo!! Rare to actually get a detailed response to these kinds of threads so thanks a lot for your info!

I bit the bullet a few days ago and basically just ran new wiring from a switch inside to a separate relay and new wiring for the headlights. I'll be doing this again shortly for the highbeams, just to save myself any hassle in the future.

But again, thanks for the info! Really glad someone still cares about the "HELP ME!!" threads :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • weikleenget
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By weikleenget · Posted

      What could be causing my clutch problem besides a bad master or slave then? Both those parts are new 
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Just came across this, but in QLD I start leave again in 2 weeks, if it is still available I might drive up and check it out Unless, @MBS206 do you live near here????, if so I could hit you up with a finders fee https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hope-island/auto-body-parts/nc-mx5-factory-hard-top/1328976391
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • r32-25t
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By r32-25t · Posted

      I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...