Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I need to get a pull type clutch installed for my R34 GTT and was wondering if anyone had recommendations and places to stay away from (PM ^^). This would include installing flywheel, clutch and rear main seal and rear engine mount.

I had done a clutch on a corolla on the ground and about 4 jacks and never again do i wish to do that. If someone knows how to do that or if its any easy on the R34 then please let me know, at the moment there is only an engine (no intake side or exhaust side) so things shouldnt get in the way from that end.

Also i am changing my injectors to a higher size, and if someone has nistune software and knowhow on how to change the injector size setting so i can get to sydney without blowing out black smoke everywhere would be nice. They are same injectors just 300cc bigger, same brand and everything. I dont have the consult cable yet but can get one. If someone already has laptop and software installed and cable that would be great, can provide beer.

This would be all preferable on the 24th till 30th this month (or after the 16th due to exam) and the tune is on the 3rd of december in sydney so i have small window for mistakes! :(

Thanks kindly

The standard injectors are 370 correct?

if this is correct, 370/670 = 0.55. So you need to take the injection multiplier down to 55% of it's original. Or drop 45% off it.

But you really should have an afr gauge present to make sure it's somewhere near correct.

I have the software, but no cable. Also I won't be around on those dates.

But if you can get your hands on those items then it's a really easy thing to do.

Thanks for the replies.

They are currently 740cc Bosche EV14 ones im putting 1000cc.

If its just for cruising to sydney with no boost you reckon i should be okay with just theoretical settings ?

And you don't need a license to install software where i can edit the existing maps correct ?

Beers sound ok. But I'm extremely busy at the moment. Fixing up my house and moving to melbourne. I'll be in melbourne for a lot of the time. Let me know when you have the cable and I'll see if I'm in town and can make it.

It was just the banjo bolt! Studs were the biggest kent ever i will never reuse a stock manifold again (although looks very stock).

Ended up spending another like 4000$ fixing everything possible, was just going to be to take the turbo off and now i have nothing in the engine bay but the engine block and head!

Any ideas on who can look after the clutch, my last choices are some holden mechanic dude or garage floor and jackstands.

Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, Apologies in advance if this feels like a topic covered multiple times. I'm only asking because some of the old topics I found are missing images now. I'm in the process of getting a manual boost controller (BC). Nothing fancy, just getting a manual one for now as I don't plan to go crazy with it and would not go over 10 PSI. My car is not jacked up on boost steroids to do crazy numbers. I want to understand the OEM setup of the boost solenoid and vacuum lines on the R34 GTT so I know what needs to be changed when I do install the BC. I sketched the current setup to the best I could see and it's on the diagram attached. If the boost controller 'Wastegate Arrow' goes from nipple 1 to 2. My understanding is that the red vacuum line's "F" connector-end should be connected to BC nipple #2? Nipple #1 is meant to have the "pressure source" so what vacuum line would that be? Is it the green vacuum line?  From what I have read here, the OEM boost solenoid is not used at this point. So that can come out and then I can just plug the nipple that usually connects to the blue vacuum line?  So would the final setup look something like this?   Thanks in advance. I don't want to already be knee-deep into pulling out vacuum lines before understanding this. I'm a noob when it comes to boost setups so trying to learn as I go.
    • Initial/early bite is a feature of.....generic pads. Things that work cold. Just put Bendix Ultimate in it. If you don't like them, it's only $3.50 wasted and an hour to change them. I've been using Intima SR, and they seem to be a good performance pad. Street friendly and able to take at least a little beating.
    • This is my first post after registering.. I hope i can find useful resources on this forum. Great forum. 
    • As I implied in my post, I have NO idea what the were. But in case I didn't make it clear, the way they performed was brilliant; whatever the brand was. I think it was the compound that made the difference. And if they were Bendix, then sign me up, I want another set. I did drive down mount Ousley (just outside of the Gong) a few times, and they showed no untowards performance.   Its not the low dust that I am looking for NOW. At the time I needed low dust, but now I have no issues with dust but want the initial/early bite of the pads that were used. Yeah, the early cold squeal may of been due to a missing shim or such.  And to repeat, its not the low dust I am seeking, its the initial bite of the pads and increase in bite as  the warmed up during each breaking. As soon as I let off, I don't remember the breaks being extra sticky if I used them again soon after. But I also did not test that theory.   Thanks for the recommendation, But I would prefer to choose something specifically with the behaviour I described.   I assume that they didn't use the default compound off the shelf, as we discussed the dust issue at length. And the early squeal when cold, I have seen the sound is more of an issue with some pad compounds. Mostly ceramic, which also are said to produce less dust.
    • Well, in 2007 he must have been charging about $1800 an hour. He only looked at the car for 5 minutes. And another 4 to write the report wrong, and another minute to correct it. Mind you, this was for a car that was: Stock engine, fmic (hole in drivers guard), all alloy intake and custom air box, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, lowered, and a set of 17" Advans (255/40/17 rear and 235/45/17 front). It was nothing crazy. The blue slipper wanted the "hole in the guard" engineered. But that was because he got the shits that I wouldn't "relocate the battery from the boot, back to the factory position in the engine bay"... In an R33 GTST...     Also for emissions, E85, and don't go wild on timing. It's amazing how the closer you get ignition timing towards max torque, the last couple of degrees really throw NOx counts right up. And for the huge increase in emissions, it's only a small increase in torque.
×
×
  • Create New...