Greddy/trust Sump Extension - Your Thoughts?

[Shoota_77]

Hey guys, I'm thinking about welding on a Greddy/Trust sump extension while the engine is out of my car.

Has anyone done one and have any feedback on it?

Does it make engine refit a prick? Was it difficult to get it to lined up for welding?

Any feedback would be awesome. Very little info on here or the web.

Cheers,

Ewan.

[trustr32]

Not too sure about the trust one but I had a Hi-Octane one welded onto my 26 sump and it doesnt have any clearance issues at all. I'm fairly sure the trust one would be the same but you should get someone who knows what their doing to fit it just to make sure it's in the right place.

[Shoota_77]

Apparently the instructions that come with it are in Japanese which makes life a little hard!

[jangles]

Apparently the instructions that come with it are in Japanese which makes life a little hard!

For the price you could probably get someone local to make a custom one

[Shoota_77]

Seems pretty cheap to me. $425 delivered.

Unless you just got a fabricator to make one and hope it works you're looking at well over $1000 change over for any of the recognised guys to do one (Hi Octane, Mercury, etc).

I'd do the cutting and just get it tigged somewhere that specialises in ali welding. Should only add $200 max extra.

[UWISSH!]

are you doing the welding yourself???

if not, factor in that a welder will charge around $80/h plus cleaning and prep costs, materials for welding

alot of people including myself use the micks metal craft or hi octane extensions, they are a realy nice bit of gear

[abr33]

are you doing the welding yourself???

if not, factor in that a welder will charge around $80/h plus cleaning and prep costs, materials for welding

alot of people including myself use the micks metal craft or hi octane extensions, they are a realy nice bit of gear

This is a good point, it'll need baking to remove oils etc from the metal and dont attempt to cut it up unless you know exactly what penetration gaps/prepping it'll need as you may very well make it harder to do. That price aint bad for that. Expect to pay 150 for ordinary job, 250 for baking prepping and welding.. Over 300 and they're having you

[OMGGTR]

I went through the hassle of this not long ago if ur running a high vol oil pump eg tomei, the trust ext is shit you will be best off paying Racepace $1500 for their 9ltr sump includes extended pickup and fittings for drain/ breathers

If standard the trust extension is prolly an upgrade but waist of time in my eyes

[Deano 1]

Yep I brought one. Never fitted it, they don't hold that much more oil. And they hang down heaps low. I ended up getting a race pace sump. Haven't fitted it yet, but fark they a work of art

[OMGGTR]

Gimmi ur mobile number ill mms u a pic of my Racepace sump

[Shoota_77]

Hey guys, thanks for the info.

Uwissh- Not trying to be a smartarse but my post above yours is pretty clear about the welding. If I do end up doing it, I'll see how my alloy tigging skills are and I might make an additional side section to replace the baffled bit on the side on the std sump. I'll make it then get it welded on by a pro. I bought the alloy to do for all of $5 from the scrap metal joint the other day. It's 4mm thick so should be strong enough.

Where do you stop money wise??? That's always a consideration. I intend to track the car once I eventually get it back together but it might be 2, maybe 3 times a year max. I know it only takes one gut full of air to kill the whole engine but it's risk versus expense i guess!

I'm a poor man playing in a rich mans game.....

[dkbcleaner]

Ive heard with the trust sump sextension and a car that is a little lowered will hit into the apex on corners around the track. Id go with a racepace or high octane coz its a flat pan design

[R31Nismoid]

if you intent to track, do it right the first time

[UWISSH!]

Hey guys, thanks for the info.

Uwissh- Not trying to be a smartarse but my post above yours is pretty clear about the welding. If I do end up doing it, I'll see how my alloy tigging skills are and I might make an additional side section to replace the baffled bit on the side on the std sump. I'll make it then get it welded on by a pro. I bought the alloy to do for all of $5 from the scrap metal joint the other day. It's 4mm thick so should be strong enough.

Where do you stop money wise??? That's always a consideration. I intend to track the car once I eventually get it back together but it might be 2, maybe 3 times a year max. I know it only takes one gut full of air to kill the whole engine but it's risk versus expense i guess!

I'm a poor man playing in a rich mans game.....

my bad, didnt read that part,

unless your really good at alluminium tig welding or tig welding in general i wouldnt even try to attempt it yourself, has to be done spot on, able to with stand pressure and also be pressure tested to ensure your not going to have any leaks.

as nismoid said, if you intend on tracking it then y would u do a half assed job, get it done correct 1st time n have some peace of mind

[dkbcleaner]

Have a read of this.. http://hioctaneracing.com/blog/2010/11/19/the-reality-of-the-rb26-oiling-system-part-2.html

[Adriano]

I would give it a go, im not the worlds best tigger, but i did mine out of 6mm, with 12mm plate for the sump plug area, just make sure you bolt it to a block when you tack it and outside weld it, then remove and inside weld it.

Edited November 6, 2012 by Adriano

[abr33]

A surface grind of gasket area would go a long way to ensuring your not building stresses into it as well. Also probably help the possibility of a leak

[Deano 1]

I'm pritty sure, you gotta heat the sump up super hot before you start the welding. Just get a workshop to weld it. You want it done right, can u imagine doing it yourself and its not done right, pulling the motor out, fitting it, and than putting the motor back in only to find it leaks, or cracks on your first launch. The sump has a fark load of force going though it, if its not done right, you will break weaken it. Also make sure it's bolted down to somthing flat and left there to cold right down, so it don't twist or do anything crazy.

[Moodles2]

Someone has said (tuner or engine builder) that they've dealt with some dodgy "custom" RB oil sumps that have lunched acouple engines due to poor design. I assumed it was the Hi-Octane ones?

[tricstar]

we made our own winged ext. like the Hi-octane ones, out of 4mm plate and made a swing gate baffle and ext pick up. had it welded on by a pro, no baking, etc, just a good tig welder. never had any issues.. its definately doable if your a half decent welder, just leak test it with the special dye ( forget what its called, but really thin stuff that shows the finest seep ) also we didn't take the diff out and no probs.

My current car has the Trust ext. and it does sit a bit low, low enough that I've worn off the bottom edge of the sump plug, and it doesn't hold much more than standard, but it has seen plenty of track and works.