Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys after a little bit of a play with the SAUQLD guys today @ Qld Raceway I have found a new love for me car but I found a few things I want to upgrade. What I want to know is what is a good rotor & pad combo for track work & light daily duties?

Also what would be better as far as swaybars goes? Front 27mm non adjustable or 24mm blade adjustable & what would be a good match for the rear?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/413029-r34-gtt-brake-q-swaybar-q/
Share on other sites

My swaybars are 27mm front blade adjustable and 24mm rear blade adjustable.

Brakes are DBA 4000 and pads are QFM A1RM and work well.

For the brakes give GSL Rallysport a call :)

A1RMs are a good pad, but will probably be tougher on rotors when used for regular street driving, and they have less bite at street temps. I swap in A1RMs for track days then swap the steet pads back in after.

On the old Legnum (with Evo brembos) and on My Cossie I run DBA4000 slotted rotors with Project Mu pads (B-Spec front, Type-NS rear), love the combo and it seems to hold up well under both street and track conditions.

Where'd you get the 27mm blade adjustable swaybar from? & do you have any trouble with brake fade?

No brake fade..... Sydney kid helped me out with the swaybars, they are Selby Swaybars.....

Not sure how tough the pads are on rotors but should probably run 2 sets of pads if that's the case, be interesting to know more about the new pad mentioned?

I have front & rear sway bars arriving any day now for my GTT. I ordered thru Daleo, great bloke with lots of knowledge. I asked for selbys, but he informed me they were taken over by fulcrum suspension and have become really expensive, around $400 per bar!! So he steered me towards whiteline, which i jumped at and paid $460 for both!! Only thing is the 27mm front bar that i originally was after isnt adjustable, so i opted for 24 front and rear, both adjustable.

He also suggested changing the ball links to heavy duty, which i ordered with the bars.

If you need more info or wanna ask any questions, ask Daleo, cant go wrong.

DBA4000 Slotted with Project Mu B-Spec pads on my 34. Love the combo to bits. Fine for day to day driving, haven't experienced any serious fade on the track.

As for sway bars, most of the guys in the club swear by whiteline gear. Give Dan down at ERD a call, he tends to know what he's talking about :)

DBA4000 Slotted with Project Mu B-Spec pads on my 34. Love the combo to bits. Fine for day to day driving, haven't experienced any serious fade on the track.

This guy :thumbsup:

  • 2 weeks later...

On my last R34 I ran DBA4000 slotted rotors on the front with Remsa pads all round. I tracked the car on a monthly basis & I had no brake fade.

They were still great for the street & didnt chew rotors. Greg from GSL recommended the pads to me. They are also less than $90 a set.

I'v put a set of Remsa's on the front of my new R34 & I am still running factory rotors. Iv done 2 happy laps so far & no fade.

My resmas were pretty much gone from a semi-hard day at winton one hard day at sandown.

In a gtt with about 180rwkw at the time

Yeah mine only saw 30 minutes of hard abuse at a time. A full day would chew through them for sure.

That's them. Remsa are what he recommends in place of A1RMs.

He says the Remsas are between the HPX and the A1RMs, so i'd assume the recommendation would/should be in place of HPXs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...