Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtt Brake Q! & Swaybar Q!

ARE31
 Share

Recommended Posts

ARE31 Proficient

ARE31

Posted
Posted

Hey guys after a little bit of a play with the SAUQLD guys today @ Qld Raceway I have found a new love for me car but I found a few things I want to upgrade. What I want to know is what is a good rotor & pad combo for track work & light daily duties?

Also what would be better as far as swaybars goes? Front 27mm non adjustable or 24mm blade adjustable & what would be a good match for the rear?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/413029-r34-gtt-brake-q-swaybar-q/
Share on other sites
34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

My swaybars are 27mm front blade adjustable and 24mm rear blade adjustable.

Brakes are DBA 4000 and pads are QFM A1RM and work well.

For the brakes give GSL Rallysport a call :)

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

A1RMs are a good pad, but will probably be tougher on rotors when used for regular street driving, and they have less bite at street temps. I swap in A1RMs for track days then swap the steet pads back in after.

Hank Scorpio Grand Master

Hank Scorpio

Posted
Posted

On the old Legnum (with Evo brembos) and on My Cossie I run DBA4000 slotted rotors with Project Mu pads (B-Spec front, Type-NS rear), love the combo and it seems to hold up well under both street and track conditions.

34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Where'd you get the 27mm blade adjustable swaybar from? & do you have any trouble with brake fade?

No brake fade..... Sydney kid helped me out with the swaybars, they are Selby Swaybars.....

Not sure how tough the pads are on rotors but should probably run 2 sets of pads if that's the case, be interesting to know more about the new pad mentioned?

Fattony Contributor

Fattony

Posted
Posted

I have front & rear sway bars arriving any day now for my GTT. I ordered thru Daleo, great bloke with lots of knowledge. I asked for selbys, but he informed me they were taken over by fulcrum suspension and have become really expensive, around $400 per bar!! So he steered me towards whiteline, which i jumped at and paid $460 for both!! Only thing is the 27mm front bar that i originally was after isnt adjustable, so i opted for 24 front and rear, both adjustable.

He also suggested changing the ball links to heavy duty, which i ordered with the bars.

If you need more info or wanna ask any questions, ask Daleo, cant go wrong.

-Boz- Veteran

-Boz-

Posted
Posted

DBA4000 Slotted with Project Mu B-Spec pads on my 34. Love the combo to bits. Fine for day to day driving, haven't experienced any serious fade on the track.

As for sway bars, most of the guys in the club swear by whiteline gear. Give Dan down at ERD a call, he tends to know what he's talking about :)

Hank Scorpio Grand Master

Hank Scorpio

Posted
Posted

DBA4000 Slotted with Project Mu B-Spec pads on my 34. Love the combo to bits. Fine for day to day driving, haven't experienced any serious fade on the track.

This guy :thumbsup:

  • 2 weeks later...
B-Boi34 Community Regular

B-Boi34

Posted
Posted

On my last R34 I ran DBA4000 slotted rotors on the front with Remsa pads all round. I tracked the car on a monthly basis & I had no brake fade.

They were still great for the street & didnt chew rotors. Greg from GSL recommended the pads to me. They are also less than $90 a set.

I'v put a set of Remsa's on the front of my new R34 & I am still running factory rotors. Iv done 2 happy laps so far & no fade.

B-Boi34 Community Regular

B-Boi34

Posted
Posted

My resmas were pretty much gone from a semi-hard day at winton one hard day at sandown.

In a gtt with about 180rwkw at the time

Yeah mine only saw 30 minutes of hard abuse at a time. A full day would chew through them for sure.

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

That's them. Remsa are what he recommends in place of A1RMs.

He says the Remsas are between the HPX and the A1RMs, so i'd assume the recommendation would/should be in place of HPXs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • weikleenget
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By weikleenget · Posted

      I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Kinkstaah
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • sonicii
      Mechanic in Victoria

      By sonicii · Posted

      I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...